I have full BMR suspension and Vikings in rear and I'm still getting wheel hop on the street. As far as I know my suspension is set right. I've ran anywhere from 12-25psi in tires,trying to solve my problem. I'm thinking it's just these tires on the street. Any input is appreciated. Thanks..
Mickey Thompson ET STREET R.. Wheel hop on the street?
- Thread starter Lillou74
- Start date
I have full BMR suspension and Vikings in rear and I'm still getting wheel hop on the street. As far as I know my suspension is set right. I am running Racestar 17x9.5 wheels.I've ran anywhere from 12-25psi in tires,trying to solve my problem. I'm thinking it's just these tires on the street. Any input is appreciated. Thanks..
well, wheel hop is 1 of 3 things usually. either u don't have enough air pressure in ur tires (the less tire pressure the more wheel hop), ur not making enough power at launch or u need to tighten up the rear shock compression.
mite wanna try a different spring in the rear as well
mite wanna try a different spring in the rear as well
I have BMR LCA with poly and Heim joints, I believe all heim on UCA and pan hard. BMR lowered springs in front and drag springs in rear. I just put Vikings on, I'm making around 680 to the ground. I was getting wheel hop from a roll but I think I have that taken care of but not sure. I launched on a back road and seen it was wheel hopping. Trying to figure this out...
- Joined
- Sep 13, 2011
- Messages
- 815
Do you have lower control arm Relocation brackets? They were the best thing to ever happen to my rear suspension. Mine are bmr.
What is the weather like? Tires stick better on a hot ass pavement.
Supposedly these tires are for automatics. I think it even says it somewhere on their site. I was thinking of getting them but a friend of mine said they're not good for manual cars.
What are your vikings set at? Do have the BMR UCA mount or running the stock mount?
I talked to Dylan at BMR and he thinks the factory bushing on the top of the rear end might be broke. So my next step is to take a look at that. Dylan at BMR had been very helpful and taking his time to help with my issues. Big thanks to BMR Suspension, highly recommend them.
2 comp is way too soft, I run 5c/7r on the street, I had those tires and never had wheel hop, do you know what you're rear spring rate is?
Another thing with these cars, if you lower the rear a lot you point your uca down, converting your antisquat to squat, really bad on a stick car for traction, bitchin for burnouts tho.
I am running #150x10 rear springs with BPS adjustable spring pearches, so I can ride low on the street and raise it up for the track.
Another thing with these cars, if you lower the rear a lot you point your uca down, converting your antisquat to squat, really bad on a stick car for traction, bitchin for burnouts tho.
I am running #150x10 rear springs with BPS adjustable spring pearches, so I can ride low on the street and raise it up for the track.
I'm not sure on rear spring rate, I just know they are BMR drag springs. I changed settings to 7c and 12th for the street, a little stiff in the rear for street use. Thanks for the info. I'm going to BMR later this week our first of next. They offered to help try and figure out what's causing the wheel hop.
I've had MT's on 2 GT500's and at least 5 pairs of MT's on other cars.
Wheel hop is caused by rear control arm angles...not the tires. Of course traction can increase wheel hop but the cause is in the rear end geometry.
The tire grabs, rear rotates, springs wind then forced unwind springing back causing the rear to bounce. Upper & Lower control arms must be slightly angled towards one another as if they'd intersect at an imaginary point towards the front of the car. This intersect is called Instant Center. When sitting ..your lower control arm should be tilted slightly upwards while the upper slightly downward. If the upper or lower are straight theoretically with a laser line they'll intersect towards the front of the car. That means the control arms cannot plant the rear or hold it once planted. I chased this issue for years with multiple 4 links until it was explained to me and fixed. With our cars we usually have this issue when the LCA is not slightly tilted upward enough requiring an adjustment. But if the UCA is straight that must first be addressed given you have all new rear control arms .
As suggest above my lowers are BMR but I did not see much traction increase from stock with my MT's. We moved the adjustment to the middle and the difference was magical.
Wheel hop is caused by rear control arm angles...not the tires. Of course traction can increase wheel hop but the cause is in the rear end geometry.
The tire grabs, rear rotates, springs wind then forced unwind springing back causing the rear to bounce. Upper & Lower control arms must be slightly angled towards one another as if they'd intersect at an imaginary point towards the front of the car. This intersect is called Instant Center. When sitting ..your lower control arm should be tilted slightly upwards while the upper slightly downward. If the upper or lower are straight theoretically with a laser line they'll intersect towards the front of the car. That means the control arms cannot plant the rear or hold it once planted. I chased this issue for years with multiple 4 links until it was explained to me and fixed. With our cars we usually have this issue when the LCA is not slightly tilted upward enough requiring an adjustment. But if the UCA is straight that must first be addressed given you have all new rear control arms .
As suggest above my lowers are BMR but I did not see much traction increase from stock with my MT's. We moved the adjustment to the middle and the difference was magical.
Last edited:
Ah, Jam you figured it. I thought Lillou had LCA relos. Lillou, if you dont have LCA relo brackets then yes all the other stuff wont matter a lick. Ive got my UCA in the top position, and my LCAs in the middle position in the relocation brackets. I have not been to a track just yet but multiple pulls on the street feel smooth and havent hopped once with street tires. Im sure itll stick like glue with my MTs on.
Thank you for the help.
My UCA is in top position and LCA is in middle hole of bracket but my LCA is still slightly angled down. I will have to try LCA in top hole. I actually wondered about changing to top hole because originally it was in bottom hole and changing to middle hole helped slightly. Thanks again
My UCA is in top position and LCA is in middle hole of bracket but my LCA is still slightly angled down. I will have to try LCA in top hole. I actually wondered about changing to top hole because originally it was in bottom hole and changing to middle hole helped slightly. Thanks again
Users who are viewing this thread
