MG 2001 Cobra Terminator Swap - Build Thread

josephcostello

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Why did you choose cerakote over powder coating?
I didn't want to compromise the integrity of the bushings by removing them in order to put them in the oven since I bought them already installed. There are pros and cons of both, and while thicker the cerakote shows very similar protection against chipping etc as the powdercoat per my research. Thought Id prefer a gloss finish on the cradle but I really like the satin sheen.
 

aaronj

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I didn't want to compromise the integrity of the bushings by removing them in order to put them in the oven since I bought them already installed. There are pros and cons of both, and while thicker the cerakote shows very similar protection against chipping etc as the powdercoat per my research. Thought Id prefer a gloss finish on the cradle but I really like the satin sheen.


How does the cost compare? Im in the same boat of having the FTBR bushings already installed and want to powder coat my IRS. Bruce recommended freezing the bushings to get them out and in easier but this might be another option. Thanks!



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josephcostello

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How does the cost compare? Im in the same boat of having the FTBR bushings already installed and want to powder coat my IRS. Bruce recommended freezing the bushings to get them out and in easier but this might be another option. Thanks!



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I had the cradle, upper control arms, and sway bar w/ hardware cerakoted for $500 including sand blasting. Powdercoating is quite a bit cheaper because shops spray many parts at once and cook them together and the cerakote material is way more. I got a quote for $250 to powder coat.

Another option is cerakote yourself using any old spray gun with the right tip. Cerakote.com has plenty of how to's plus starter kits for color and such. But there is a bit more prep work IIRC. I just hate painting so I spent my time doing other things.

If I had to do it again, I'd still spend the extra money and get it cerakoted. The finish is quite a bit thinner which makes putting the control arms and others a lot easier. If I had it powdercoated I would've ran into problems.
 

josephcostello

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One last update for a couple weeks, leaving for Maui in a couple days and will be getting a much needed break on this car. Before I leave I'm going to drop off all the hardware off at a local metal plater to get redone.
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T56 is next on the list when I get back, it looks a bit crusty but i'll clean the case up. And check out that bent up HE. I'm hoping I can save the brackets.
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And here is the engine waiting patiently. Cant wait to hear it make noise.
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The rest of what I need for the engine to get this car running will be ordered and arrive before I come back. I am planning to put the complete drivetrain together on the ground with everything 100% assembled and then slide it under and bolt it up. It is going to be put back together mostly stock because I need to get this car smogged/inspected. The end goal is a 2.3 VMP if budget allows, but wheels/tires and body will be priority once it's together.
 

josephcostello

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Happy new year Everyone! I see that this thread is in need of an update

Got my hardware back from the platers
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I tackled the transmission next. Pressure wash and aluminum cleaner got the case looking decent.
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Regreased the MGW linkage and re-installed with a @CobraBob shifter gasket. This is an older model MGW, but I really liked how it felt in the donor.

Next I pulled the front cover off and upgraded to a 26 Spline input shaft. The insides of the transmission looked great.
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New TOB sleeve by McLeod. Punched the old one out with a hammer.
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Some 26 spline input shafts require a different thickness shim behind the bearing race, but per my research the Tremecs do not. For peace of mind I went ahead and measured the tolerance on the shaft anyways courtesy of Harbor Freight. .000-.005in shaft play is the proper range which I was right in.
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Next was the pivot ball. Since I'm running a McLeod RXT, I needed to set the pivot ball -4mm than stock. Factory is 1.47inches, the new one is set at 1.31inches (1 5/16).
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Then came the new TOB and clutch fork. Will add fluid when installed. Also painted the hardware on the trans and top center plate.
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Things are really starting to get exciting for me and I am still on track to have this thing running by Feb 1st (knock on wood). A lot is in motion currently and while there have been delays, I am very happy with my progress and how smooth things are going. I have pretty much all the new parts for the engine laid out on tables ready to be installed. Most I have not shown you guys yet. Still waiting on powder coat and then there will be a massive photo dump when reassembly starts.

So my attention is focused elsewhere. Some punch list items I'm working on today and tomorrow...
- wire Aeroforce gauges
- Front suspension components: A arms, k member, etc
- 03/04 rack: bumpsteer, end links, lines

If I can get everything in the car in a week, that leaves me a week to work out the kinks and get her to fire...hope i'm not too optimistic. I want to hear this thing run so badly.
 

josephcostello

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Gosh this site sucks for uploading pics....Terminator rack with Maximum Motorsports solid aluminum bushings, tie rod ends, and solid steering shaft.
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And a very nice delivery yesterday. Engine starts going together today. Start to a massive photo dump in the next week.
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josephcostello

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Nothing has gone to schedule with this car lol, on Wednesday when I was laying out all my hardware I found a box of all the timing cover and valve cover hardware that I forgot to send out to the platers :mad::mad:. What a d*******. I sent them out that night and they are arriving tomorrow in the mail. Also had to buy a new used set of exhaust manifolds, the broken studs in the original set weren't having it.

Installed the IRS after I cleaned the whole bottom side with cleaner and a small brissle brush:
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HCM:
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Radiator painted with POR15 high temp paint. I REALLY like their products. Also hid the EGR valve and harmonic.
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Painted the new bezel with matching midnight black interior paint from SEM. Color and texture matches 100%.
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I picked up these nicely used 10th anni floor mats some time ago. These will be my "daily" set. I have two NOS sets of brand new Cobra ones with the snake logo which will only be for shows and when the cars sitting in the garage. They need a cleaning.
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Pulley bridge.
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Engine parts.
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So much more is in progress and being worked on. Seems like i'm always waiting for another piece to be complete or more parts in the mail. Can't just finish one thing and do another.

She will be running Feb 1st.
 

josephcostello

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Some more engine parts.
Ford tensioners, intercooler pump, coils, oil filter.
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LFP lower pulley with stock sized ring.
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New starter. You guys have seen the RXT. NOS OEM 03/04 clutch cable in the bag below it.
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New 03/04 radiator hoses. I don't like worn out faded hoses or chinese garbage. Thankfully LMR sells the whole set for $180. I sold my originals to someone doing an eaton swap.
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josephcostello

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Anyone need a clutch...? Used 10 spline center force off the donor. Miles unknown but it felt fine. Retails for $480 on American Muscle. $100 plus shipping. Comes with a flywheel.
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josephcostello

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Been putting in 14 hour days working on this thing. So many things happening at once sometimes I forget to share the details. This is what the motor looks like as of now.
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LFP lower with stock diameter lower. No plans to change the diameter but I may at some point. Such a nice piece.
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You can see the KMJ alt with a 3.50 billet pulley to make sure the alt doesn’t spin too fast. I used their spreadsheet with my pulley confirguration to make sure it was in the correct rpm range. Also the alen bolt on the idler next to the lower, I had to trim this because the mount for the idler on the bracket from LFP couldn’t accommodate that long of thread. I didn’t want to use LFPs supplied bolt because i wanted it to match the rest of the idlers.
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Cobra engineering head mod FTW!
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This is the power steering pump off my 01 I kept because the one on the donor made some noise. But it’s not the same as the 03/04s. So I pulled the hose fitting off an turned it away from the alt to accommodate the hose to the reservoir.
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And my debatably overplayed Powered by SVT coil coils. I was gonna have these powdercoated black, but the finish has some pearl in it that matches the valve covers in light. It’s a great combo IMO.
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And one more just because I think it looks so good. I can’t wait to have the car running Tuesday. Tonight I’m putting it on the K and working from the intercooler up.


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josephcostello

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Well I changed plans last minute. Decided I would put the rest of the engine together in car. So did some finishing touches on the engine and put her down on the k member. First order of business was a new pilot bearing.
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Then the RXT.
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Taped and jacked the car high enough to slide under from the passenger side.
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After trying to get the trans up to the bell housing, we messed up the flange slightly on the pilot bearing. So that’s where I stopped for the night. Have to take it all apart and redo it right in the AM with a new pilot. Ugh


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52merc

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Great write up so far and nice work. That belt drive arrangement is awesome. If a messed up pilot bearing is the worst that happens during this build then you would have to consider yourself very lucky.

Keep it coming!
 

josephcostello

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Great write up so far and nice work. That belt drive arrangement is awesome. If a messed up pilot bearing is the worst that happens during this build then you would have to consider yourself very lucky.

Keep it coming!

Right? Knock on wood haha.

So I figured out what was probably my issue. The pilot bearing I put in which came with the clutch wasn’t quite the same as what I took out. It looked a lot cheaper. Oreilly had two on their shelf when I called this AM, one for 7.99 and one for 11.99. I came home with the 11.99 one and then took some pictures. You can see the original to the left. The new one in the middle (exactly the same as the OG) and the smaller one on the right.
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While the ID was the same, it looked a lot cheaper. I’m assuming it was probably the $7.99 one. So in the trash it goes and in went the new one
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Very glad I re did it. This probably would’ve caused problems down the line and it’s always 3x as fast after you know how to do it. I didn’t feel 100% confident on the clutch install anyways.


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josephcostello

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It’s crunch time. Finishing up re wrapping the engine harness then the blower and vacuum lines etc can get hooked up.
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I’m ditching the factory power wiring (can you even call it that?) and going big wire throughout. More on that probably tomorrow but for the wire I am keeping I’m re routing
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Trying to figure out plumbing for my afco. Probably gonna do all new lines.
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And I adjusted the pivot ball wrong for the clutch . I’m gonna drop it probably tonight.


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MG0h3

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Ooofff. Where’s you set the pivot ball?


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