Melted drivers side pistons

cj428mach

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I think you have a fuel rail issue. I seem to recall that when going return style you have to have a line between the rails at the front and back to assure equal delivery to the injectors.

You can run stock rails with a return setup and can also run aftermarket rails with out having both a front and rear crossover. I ve found having a front and rear crossover makes for more consistent and stable fuel pressure.
 

MalcolmV8

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You might want to think about a Vampire knock retard system to protect your engine this time around. Now knowing what a built engine costs, It is not a relatively large investment to keep it safe.

That's a very good idea along with dual widebands to watch both banks.
 

MalcolmV8

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Does the Vampire sensor work well with our noisy engines? and how much is it, I cant see to find a price?

Yes it works very well and has saved my engine multiple times when I was playing with water / meth injection and experimenting with various mixtures and spray patterns and tuning etc. I'll PM you some more details.
 

jblood37

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I think you have a fuel rail issue. I seem to recall that when going return style you have to have a line between the rails at the front and back to assure equal delivery to the injectors.

I don't have any crossovers between rails. I'm going to be double screwed! :(
 

03Steve

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Dual widebands, a richer target AFR, a more conservative timing setting, along with a more conservative spark retard with ACT. Fuel choice dictates the last three. Winter pump fuel has been reported to decrease in effective octane.
 

Strikeking10

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Sorry to here about what happened to
your motor. It is always a sad day to here stories like this. good luck on your new build!
Thank you, this will be the 3rd time the engine has been taken back apart, the first time happened about 500 miles after installing the TVS and return fuel system and the second was right before it was about to be put back in the car, another 03 cobra with the same problem mine had had the valve seats pop out of the heads so they took both back apart and replaced the seats with better ones, its been down for 15 months now lol.
 

trmnator

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Well we got my engine back apart after it blew the dipstick and pre filter off on the dyno, all 4 of the driver side pistons melted, everything else in the engine and heads look perfect with no damage to anything but the cylinder walls, pistons and rings. After talking to the shop and them talking to their friend at Accufab (cant remember his name) who builds these engines alot, they all think it was the factory fuel line not getting enough fuel over to the driverside rail in combination with the spike of 24lbs of boost it saw on the cold night the last pull was done. Timing was only 18* on 92 with Torco. is there anything else that anyone thinks could of caused this? here are my mods.

Gen 2 Tvs 2.6 upper pulley, stock lower
Bored .20 over
9.3:1 Manley pistons
Stock cams
Ford Gt roller rockers
Manley 1mm oversized valves
Bronze valve guides
Livernois springs 95lb seat
Lethal budget return system dual gss342 pumps
80lb injectors
Accufab Throttle Body
JLT Ram air
SCT BA3000
Bassani mid length headers
Bassani Offroad Xpipe
Custom borla xr1 catback
Cloyes adjustatble secondary cam gears
Cobra enginering secondary tensioner
Melling high volume oil pump
ARP Bolts all around
T56 Magnum
Spec stage 3+ clutch
Billetflow Idler pulleys
View attachment 85630 View attachment 85627 View attachment 85628 View attachment 85629
 

trmnator

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When mine lost power we pulled it and found 7 8 piston and cylinders were damaged, melted pistons blue cylinder walls. My builder said it's common on the left head to over heat those pistons because the water dead heads so to speak. Their is no outlet on the back of the head, it drains from the center. I now have a fitting on the back of the head Y'd into the heated hose.
 

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