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SVT Shelby GT500
Maximum Motorsports S197 K-Member
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<blockquote data-quote="rdanzy" data-source="post: 14692422" data-attributes="member: 112863"><p>I can’t add much to the information that Tob provided about the MM K member other than share some additional info specific to my installation. It is quite possible that this is the first production MM K member for a S197. </p><p>[ATTACH=full]627197[/ATTACH]</p><p>I also installed the bump steer kit.</p><p>[ATTACH=full]627198[/ATTACH]</p><p>First of all the MM K member did not lower my engine when I used the OEM motor mounts as the vertical location of the motor mounts to the frame mounts on the OEM K and the MM K are the same. I do plan to use some mounts to lower the engine 1 inch so that the hood will clear a larger blower. To do this I will have to lower the steering rack ½ to 1 inch to have clearance for the oil pan. This will require making two adaptors that will attach to the current MM steering rack mounting. Lowering the rack will also require moving the rack forward which may cause bump steer.</p><p>[ATTACH=full]627199[/ATTACH]</p><p>The instructions for the MM K member are spot on. I of course deviated and installed the lower control arms on the K prior to assembling the K to the car. If you are working alone do not do this as the steering knuckles interfere with the lower control arm and will make it very difficult to align the studs/bolts for attaching the K. I removed the struts and could then attach the K. I was also installing new struts so removing the original struts was not a big issue. I also noted the Tob had the struts removed during his installation. If you do not want to remove the struts, follow the MM instructions.</p><p>One helpful hint is regarding removing the driver’s side bolt for the steering rack. The bolt threads from the top of the rack and threads into a welded nut on the OEM K member. The head of the bolt is directly below the oil cooler and you cannot get a socket on the bolt until the K is completely loose from the frame. I had the steering rack replaced on my car a few months ago and after struggling with the bolt to get it free I noticed that the welded nut was turning. Apparently the Ford guys know that this is a good short cut to be able to remove the driver’s side rack bolt. So I suggest that you use an impact wrench on the weld nut and break the welds. Then you can remove the weld nut which you will have easy access to.</p><p>My car is a 2010 but I had installed the 2011+ brace that connects the K to the front cross member (radiator support). At the time of my install MM had not released an adaptor to connect the K to the brace. I fabricated an adaptor as shown below.</p><p>[ATTACH=full]627200[/ATTACH]</p><p>[ATTACH=full]627201[/ATTACH] </p><p> [ATTACH=full]627202[/ATTACH] </p><p>Another plus for the MM K is the access to the oil filter. With the OEM K I always had oil on the lower control arm from removing the filter. Also the filter could not be removed without tipping to one side causing more spilling of oil. With the MM K (and maybe other K’s also) I can put the drain pan directly under the filter and just let the filter drop into the pan.</p><p>[ATTACH=full]627203[/ATTACH]</p><p>I spent a bit of time checking the alignment (thrust angle) of the front wheels to the rear. To spare space on the thread I won’t go into the detail. When I finished I noted that the 6 bolt holes on the K member were center with the bolts in the engine blocks. So it the K was aligned as designed and when I took the car for alignment the thrust angle was 0.03 degrees.</p><p>My 1948 model ass meter indicates that the steering is more responsive into corners and front roll is really reduced. I also installed the bump steer kit per the MM instructions and there is no bump steer. I also installed an Eibach R2 kit along with the MM K and I am presently setting the compression and rebound and having great fun with that. Compared to before with the stock suspension, the car feels as if there is no front body roll in turns (both anti-roll bars are stock) and no plowing. Fun to drive.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="rdanzy, post: 14692422, member: 112863"] I can’t add much to the information that Tob provided about the MM K member other than share some additional info specific to my installation. It is quite possible that this is the first production MM K member for a S197. [ATTACH=full]627197[/ATTACH] I also installed the bump steer kit. [ATTACH=full]627198[/ATTACH] First of all the MM K member did not lower my engine when I used the OEM motor mounts as the vertical location of the motor mounts to the frame mounts on the OEM K and the MM K are the same. I do plan to use some mounts to lower the engine 1 inch so that the hood will clear a larger blower. To do this I will have to lower the steering rack ½ to 1 inch to have clearance for the oil pan. This will require making two adaptors that will attach to the current MM steering rack mounting. Lowering the rack will also require moving the rack forward which may cause bump steer. [ATTACH=full]627199[/ATTACH] The instructions for the MM K member are spot on. I of course deviated and installed the lower control arms on the K prior to assembling the K to the car. If you are working alone do not do this as the steering knuckles interfere with the lower control arm and will make it very difficult to align the studs/bolts for attaching the K. I removed the struts and could then attach the K. I was also installing new struts so removing the original struts was not a big issue. I also noted the Tob had the struts removed during his installation. If you do not want to remove the struts, follow the MM instructions. One helpful hint is regarding removing the driver’s side bolt for the steering rack. The bolt threads from the top of the rack and threads into a welded nut on the OEM K member. The head of the bolt is directly below the oil cooler and you cannot get a socket on the bolt until the K is completely loose from the frame. I had the steering rack replaced on my car a few months ago and after struggling with the bolt to get it free I noticed that the welded nut was turning. Apparently the Ford guys know that this is a good short cut to be able to remove the driver’s side rack bolt. So I suggest that you use an impact wrench on the weld nut and break the welds. Then you can remove the weld nut which you will have easy access to. My car is a 2010 but I had installed the 2011+ brace that connects the K to the front cross member (radiator support). At the time of my install MM had not released an adaptor to connect the K to the brace. I fabricated an adaptor as shown below. [ATTACH=full]627200[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=full]627201[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=full]627202[/ATTACH] Another plus for the MM K is the access to the oil filter. With the OEM K I always had oil on the lower control arm from removing the filter. Also the filter could not be removed without tipping to one side causing more spilling of oil. With the MM K (and maybe other K’s also) I can put the drain pan directly under the filter and just let the filter drop into the pan. [ATTACH=full]627203[/ATTACH] I spent a bit of time checking the alignment (thrust angle) of the front wheels to the rear. To spare space on the thread I won’t go into the detail. When I finished I noted that the 6 bolt holes on the K member were center with the bolts in the engine blocks. So it the K was aligned as designed and when I took the car for alignment the thrust angle was 0.03 degrees. My 1948 model ass meter indicates that the steering is more responsive into corners and front roll is really reduced. I also installed the bump steer kit per the MM instructions and there is no bump steer. I also installed an Eibach R2 kit along with the MM K and I am presently setting the compression and rebound and having great fun with that. Compared to before with the stock suspension, the car feels as if there is no front body roll in turns (both anti-roll bars are stock) and no plowing. Fun to drive. [/QUOTE]
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