Maximum Motorsports S197 K-Member

Jack Hidley

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To clarify the blocks that Catmonkey is getting.

When we did the first production run of the aluminum mounting blocks, we had some of them finished in several different anodizing colors. The standard production blocks, as shown in Tob's photos, are anodized clear. The blocks that Catmonkey ordered are some version of black. I don't know anything about the arrangement he made with the sales department to buy them. Going forward, clear will be the only option.
 

Catmonkey

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Yeah, just to re-iterate, it's nothing special, but in keeping with my stealth motif, I'm helping them get rid of some NOS.
 

Catmonkey

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No. I moved the box into our storage at the office. Hopefully, I'll have an opportunity to get it home and check it all out over the weekend.
 

BMR Tech

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Here are the K member rear mounting points "weld in" reinforcing plates sold by Shelby.
I believe they found out about this issue while working on the Shelby 1000
http://www.teamshelby.com/forums/index.php/topic/72748-shelby-k-member-support-plates/

You are somewhat correct. They have seen similar issues in the past, before S1000 development began.

When the testing for the S1000 started, they utilized the plates - because they knew that they would run into the floorpan deformation issues. They really pushed the parts involved with the S1000, and the car as a whole, before introducing it to the masses.

Rest assured, if the floorpans deform with OEM, and a BMR K-Member...it will with the others. Personally, I consider it an accomplishment that the OEM's chassis rigidity is compromised before our tubular K. (Shelby K-Members, including the S1000 K-Members, are made by us)
 

03 DSG Snake

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You are somewhat correct. They have seen similar issues in the past, before S1000 development began.

When the testing for the S1000 started, they utilized the plates - because they knew that they would run into the floorpan deformation issues. They really pushed the parts involved with the S1000, and the car as a whole, before introducing it to the masses.

Rest assured, if the floorpans deform with OEM, and a BMR K-Member...it will with the others. Personally, I consider it an accomplishment that the OEM's chassis rigidity is compromised before our tubular K. (Shelby K-Members, including the S1000 K-Members, are made by us)

So the plates should go on all cars?
 

BMR Tech

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So the plates should go on all cars?

Not necessarily. If you compare our sales volume of S197 K-Members, to the amount of people I have seen have the issue....it is not very alarming.

The reason I even brought this up is, it is very evident that the MM K-Member is catered towards handling specific crowds. In a handling environment, in which a person is using good rubber....and pushing the car, then yes - I would say the plates should be used, 100% of the time. The majority of our customers are street/strip, handling(autoX/HPDE)...and a few hardcore guys.
 

Catmonkey

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Still chasing whitetails. It's been a little too cold for me to tackle this even if I weren't. I'm lining up several other upgrades to do at the same time, so it's not likely to be a weekend project once I do get started.
 

rdanzy

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It has been 90 miles colder for me than Catmonkey. Mine is installed. Almost finished with putting on an Eibach R2 kit. Still have to do the alignment. Will have a post on the install soon.
Cat, Roger....where do you guys stand with your installations?
 

Black Cobra '99

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It has been 90 miles colder for me than Catmonkey. Mine is installed. Almost finished with putting on an Eibach R2 kit. Still have to do the alignment. Will have a post on the install soon.

rdanzy, will you also share your thoughts on the R2 once everything is installed, I'm interested in the kit.
A comprehensive review would be greatly appreciated.
 

rdanzy

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I can’t add much to the information that Tob provided about the MM K member other than share some additional info specific to my installation. It is quite possible that this is the first production MM K member for a S197.
IMG_1841_zpse3830ee6.jpg

I also installed the bump steer kit.
IMG_5758_zps481139e1.jpg

First of all the MM K member did not lower my engine when I used the OEM motor mounts as the vertical location of the motor mounts to the frame mounts on the OEM K and the MM K are the same. I do plan to use some mounts to lower the engine 1 inch so that the hood will clear a larger blower. To do this I will have to lower the steering rack ½ to 1 inch to have clearance for the oil pan. This will require making two adaptors that will attach to the current MM steering rack mounting. Lowering the rack will also require moving the rack forward which may cause bump steer.
IMG_5752_zpsd4923d5f.jpg

The instructions for the MM K member are spot on. I of course deviated and installed the lower control arms on the K prior to assembling the K to the car. If you are working alone do not do this as the steering knuckles interfere with the lower control arm and will make it very difficult to align the studs/bolts for attaching the K. I removed the struts and could then attach the K. I was also installing new struts so removing the original struts was not a big issue. I also noted the Tob had the struts removed during his installation. If you do not want to remove the struts, follow the MM instructions.
One helpful hint is regarding removing the driver’s side bolt for the steering rack. The bolt threads from the top of the rack and threads into a welded nut on the OEM K member. The head of the bolt is directly below the oil cooler and you cannot get a socket on the bolt until the K is completely loose from the frame. I had the steering rack replaced on my car a few months ago and after struggling with the bolt to get it free I noticed that the welded nut was turning. Apparently the Ford guys know that this is a good short cut to be able to remove the driver’s side rack bolt. So I suggest that you use an impact wrench on the weld nut and break the welds. Then you can remove the weld nut which you will have easy access to.
My car is a 2010 but I had installed the 2011+ brace that connects the K to the front cross member (radiator support). At the time of my install MM had not released an adaptor to connect the K to the brace. I fabricated an adaptor as shown below.
IMG_1834_zps95af3379.jpg

IMG_1835_zps8deafa47.jpg

IMG_5754_zps067f0281.jpg

Another plus for the MM K is the access to the oil filter. With the OEM K I always had oil on the lower control arm from removing the filter. Also the filter could not be removed without tipping to one side causing more spilling of oil. With the MM K (and maybe other K’s also) I can put the drain pan directly under the filter and just let the filter drop into the pan.
IMG_5752_zpsd4923d5f.jpg

I spent a bit of time checking the alignment (thrust angle) of the front wheels to the rear. To spare space on the thread I won’t go into the detail. When I finished I noted that the 6 bolt holes on the K member were center with the bolts in the engine blocks. So it the K was aligned as designed and when I took the car for alignment the thrust angle was 0.03 degrees.
My 1948 model ass meter indicates that the steering is more responsive into corners and front roll is really reduced. I also installed the bump steer kit per the MM instructions and there is no bump steer. I also installed an Eibach R2 kit along with the MM K and I am presently setting the compression and rebound and having great fun with that. Compared to before with the stock suspension, the car feels as if there is no front body roll in turns (both anti-roll bars are stock) and no plowing. Fun to drive.
 

rdanzy

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I will add to the DIY section. I have to take replacement pics of the shocks and struts in the wheel wells. Will get the post out this week.
rdanzy, will you also share your thoughts on the R2 once everything is installed, I'm interested in the kit.
A comprehensive review would be greatly appreciated.
 

Jack Hidley

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Rdanzy,

Moving the steering rack forward doesn't change the bumpsteer behavior. It will change the Ackermann behavior. This is how quickly the inside tire turns compared to the outside tire. This behavior is desirable to minimize understeer especially in tight corners.

Changing the steering rack height affects bumpsteer. If the rack is lowered 0.5", the tie rod ends will also need to be lowered about 0.5". This would require converting the bumpsteer kit to a bolt thru design.
 

Catmonkey

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Jack, can you comment when the following will be available for purchase?
Lightweight radiator core support.
Core support brace/adjustable mount for swaybar.

I'm going to start my installation within the next week or two.
 

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