Magnum XL swap ?
- Thread starter ANGREY
- Start date
Some insight for you guys that I've found.
The 6060 has a pump from the factory (with output) for remote cooling. The magnum does not.
The reason the magnum (and particularly the XL) is preferred is that it's a marked improvement in torque capacity over the stock 6060 and it also comes with the "F" style tail to extend back (hence the XL) so you can run a top mounted shifter. No more remote shifter nonsense. This results in obviously more NVH, but if we're having these discussions, we care less to little about NVH (and besides, it's no different than the days of running a T-45 or any other direct mount trans). I'm also a fan of the feel of the top loader (which is what MGW and Barton try to replicate with their beefy extension arms and bushing, and while it's a marked improvement over the OEM, it still doesn't feel as rock solid or short as the top loaders).
There is an aftermarket kit that upgrades the magnum to a 6060 style pump and output for coolant lines. (It's a cool $995.00 unshipped and uninstalled). This allows the advantages of the magnum and the functional cooling of the 3160 or the 6060. It however, will not work with the 2.97 1st magnums, but no big deal, I prefer the close ratio 2.66 1st which accepts the upgraded pump.
The Magnum will weigh more, but not so much as one would think. With an SFI steel bell housing and the tail section, I expect it to weigh somewhere around 80 lbs more than the 3160 (maybe less comparing the 3160 with the heavy MGW shifter).
The magnum also allows for a slip style yoke (much cheaper aftermarket shaft).
I looked into having my 3160 "upgraded" visa vis Calimer or Tick performance. No one in the marketplace is upgrading 3160s, probably due to demand but more so due to lack of aftermarket or replacement parts.
The Magnum (in stock form) will not shift as compliably as the 3160, especially at high rpms, but with an aftermarket upgrade and cryo and REM polish, it should suffice.
The other BIG advantage of the magnum is the .50 second overdrive. This allows to run taller rear gears (like my 4.09) and not lose your sanity on long cruises. I'd pay good money to swap out the .63 in the 3160 (which is all but useless for anything other than highway cruise control) and put a .50 in it. That would allow you to set the cruise at 80 and run like 2100 or 2200 rpms.
So to have a perfect magnum swap, it's not cheap. Around $5k-$6k for the kit (depending on your clutch preference and shaft choice) and then another $2k in shipping, pump, upgrades, etc)
If I can get even $1500 out of my OEM 3160+MGW+shaft then that puts the whole affair around $6500 net. Expensive, but cheaper than a tow truck from the side of who knows where and heartache and waiting to replace a fried 3160. Anyone wanting to push the GT350 to north of 900 hp and not have complete roller skates for traction this is the calculus/decision.
The 6060 has a pump from the factory (with output) for remote cooling. The magnum does not.
The reason the magnum (and particularly the XL) is preferred is that it's a marked improvement in torque capacity over the stock 6060 and it also comes with the "F" style tail to extend back (hence the XL) so you can run a top mounted shifter. No more remote shifter nonsense. This results in obviously more NVH, but if we're having these discussions, we care less to little about NVH (and besides, it's no different than the days of running a T-45 or any other direct mount trans). I'm also a fan of the feel of the top loader (which is what MGW and Barton try to replicate with their beefy extension arms and bushing, and while it's a marked improvement over the OEM, it still doesn't feel as rock solid or short as the top loaders).
There is an aftermarket kit that upgrades the magnum to a 6060 style pump and output for coolant lines. (It's a cool $995.00 unshipped and uninstalled). This allows the advantages of the magnum and the functional cooling of the 3160 or the 6060. It however, will not work with the 2.97 1st magnums, but no big deal, I prefer the close ratio 2.66 1st which accepts the upgraded pump.
The Magnum will weigh more, but not so much as one would think. With an SFI steel bell housing and the tail section, I expect it to weigh somewhere around 80 lbs more than the 3160 (maybe less comparing the 3160 with the heavy MGW shifter).
The magnum also allows for a slip style yoke (much cheaper aftermarket shaft).
I looked into having my 3160 "upgraded" visa vis Calimer or Tick performance. No one in the marketplace is upgrading 3160s, probably due to demand but more so due to lack of aftermarket or replacement parts.
The Magnum (in stock form) will not shift as compliably as the 3160, especially at high rpms, but with an aftermarket upgrade and cryo and REM polish, it should suffice.
The other BIG advantage of the magnum is the .50 second overdrive. This allows to run taller rear gears (like my 4.09) and not lose your sanity on long cruises. I'd pay good money to swap out the .63 in the 3160 (which is all but useless for anything other than highway cruise control) and put a .50 in it. That would allow you to set the cruise at 80 and run like 2100 or 2200 rpms.
So to have a perfect magnum swap, it's not cheap. Around $5k-$6k for the kit (depending on your clutch preference and shaft choice) and then another $2k in shipping, pump, upgrades, etc)
If I can get even $1500 out of my OEM 3160+MGW+shaft then that puts the whole affair around $6500 net. Expensive, but cheaper than a tow truck from the side of who knows where and heartache and waiting to replace a fried 3160. Anyone wanting to push the GT350 to north of 900 hp and not have complete roller skates for traction this is the calculus/decision.
Nice info, thanks. I have a Magnum XL upgrade in my car (I bought it that way). It's a great trans.
Interesting bit about the "aftermarket upgrade and cryo and REM polish". Obviously the trans has to come completely apart for that. I wish it was just a new fluid, hahaha..... I've found the trans to be a bit notchy, especially when cold, but perhaps much of that is due to the dual-disc McCleod RXT clutch.
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Interesting bit about the "aftermarket upgrade and cryo and REM polish". Obviously the trans has to come completely apart for that. I wish it was just a new fluid, hahaha..... I've found the trans to be a bit notchy, especially when cold, but perhaps much of that is due to the dual-disc McCleod RXT clutch.
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Some updates for you guys. I have my transmission "plan" all mapped out now.
1) Several vendors off a pretty comprehensive "magnum XL" swap kit, that comes with everything you need (or just about). The trans, the bellhousing, new throwout, cross member (Tremec shifter), harness (for the reverse lockout) most even offer an aluminum driveshaft and some offer clutches.
2) The Magnum used to come in 4 variants: wide ratio (which starts with a 2.97) with a .50 overdrive and .63 overdrive and close ratio (which starts with a 2.66) with a .50 and .63 overdrive.
Tremec has since discontinued offering either wide or close boxes with the .50 overdrive (due to either lack of demand or customer complaints).
3) I found a shop that swaps out the front plate to convert the Magnum to an internal pump design (like the 6060 and 3160) so I can keep the external cooler capability. I'm currently in the process of sorting out whether I can modify my GT350 lines or have to get something custom fabbed up. It seems the return line port on the Magnum is in a different location, but the feed line to the cooler should be similar if not identical.
4) It just so happens that same outfit offers the most competitive price on the base swap kit and I opted out of their driveshaft and clutch offerings. They're going to swap the front plate and do a full boogie upgrade to the box
4a) They're upgrading the blocker rings to carbon and also swapping out the pads to Vespel forks and pads (allegedly the best or one of the best), they're swapping 2nd and 3rd gear to "non advanced" synchro gears (which is what the earlier versions that tremec offered, but swapped them due to complaints about grinding in 2 and 3, but was misdiagnosed as a different problem with the rings and pads). They're also doing a REM polish. They don't offer a cryogenic treatment (in house) and could send it off but they were skeptical of the cost/benefits. So outside of cryo treatment, it's getting the full upgrades that others do for their upgraded boxes.
4b) They're also swapping out the overdrive to a .50 ratio, which is absolutely lovely for me. I have 4.09 gears and now it means I can cruise at just over 2k rpms at 80 mph, which for me saves me from long term hearing damage and also means I can take a phone call without having to slow down to 55 mph.
5) DSS makes aluminum AND carbon fiber drive shafts for the swap. I called QA-1 and they make custom shafts, but they don't offer anything standard yet and the custom shaft order doesn't allow for IRS or CV. So DSS it is.
6) I can reuse the hydraulic piston from the 3160 and the clutch I'm ordering is analogous to a previous gen GT500 setup (26 spline).
7) Direct trans shifters are plentiful and CHEAP (compared to the remote shifter). I haven't decided between the MGW or the Triax. The interweb is full of varying opinions, I loved my Triax on my previous direct mount setups and I like the set bolts for stopping over shift. I also like my gripper ball and custom insert I currently have from MGW. So I'm still sorting through that.
8) Research indicates that the external reverse lockout solenoid will probably require beating on the body to make it clear and not rub/vibrate. The 3160 and 6060 use shifter controls to keep you from inadvertently going into reverse. The shift patter on the Magnum makes this a bigger issue. Having it adjacent to 1st makes it much less likely than having it adjacent to 5th. At any rate, I Plan on using the solenoid. Some guys have modified the solenoid to simply "overpower" the lockout, but hopefully the harness ties in and with a simple connection to key on power, shouldn't be an issue.
1) Several vendors off a pretty comprehensive "magnum XL" swap kit, that comes with everything you need (or just about). The trans, the bellhousing, new throwout, cross member (Tremec shifter), harness (for the reverse lockout) most even offer an aluminum driveshaft and some offer clutches.
2) The Magnum used to come in 4 variants: wide ratio (which starts with a 2.97) with a .50 overdrive and .63 overdrive and close ratio (which starts with a 2.66) with a .50 and .63 overdrive.
Tremec has since discontinued offering either wide or close boxes with the .50 overdrive (due to either lack of demand or customer complaints).
3) I found a shop that swaps out the front plate to convert the Magnum to an internal pump design (like the 6060 and 3160) so I can keep the external cooler capability. I'm currently in the process of sorting out whether I can modify my GT350 lines or have to get something custom fabbed up. It seems the return line port on the Magnum is in a different location, but the feed line to the cooler should be similar if not identical.
4) It just so happens that same outfit offers the most competitive price on the base swap kit and I opted out of their driveshaft and clutch offerings. They're going to swap the front plate and do a full boogie upgrade to the box
4a) They're upgrading the blocker rings to carbon and also swapping out the pads to Vespel forks and pads (allegedly the best or one of the best), they're swapping 2nd and 3rd gear to "non advanced" synchro gears (which is what the earlier versions that tremec offered, but swapped them due to complaints about grinding in 2 and 3, but was misdiagnosed as a different problem with the rings and pads). They're also doing a REM polish. They don't offer a cryogenic treatment (in house) and could send it off but they were skeptical of the cost/benefits. So outside of cryo treatment, it's getting the full upgrades that others do for their upgraded boxes.
4b) They're also swapping out the overdrive to a .50 ratio, which is absolutely lovely for me. I have 4.09 gears and now it means I can cruise at just over 2k rpms at 80 mph, which for me saves me from long term hearing damage and also means I can take a phone call without having to slow down to 55 mph.
5) DSS makes aluminum AND carbon fiber drive shafts for the swap. I called QA-1 and they make custom shafts, but they don't offer anything standard yet and the custom shaft order doesn't allow for IRS or CV. So DSS it is.
6) I can reuse the hydraulic piston from the 3160 and the clutch I'm ordering is analogous to a previous gen GT500 setup (26 spline).
7) Direct trans shifters are plentiful and CHEAP (compared to the remote shifter). I haven't decided between the MGW or the Triax. The interweb is full of varying opinions, I loved my Triax on my previous direct mount setups and I like the set bolts for stopping over shift. I also like my gripper ball and custom insert I currently have from MGW. So I'm still sorting through that.
8) Research indicates that the external reverse lockout solenoid will probably require beating on the body to make it clear and not rub/vibrate. The 3160 and 6060 use shifter controls to keep you from inadvertently going into reverse. The shift patter on the Magnum makes this a bigger issue. Having it adjacent to 1st makes it much less likely than having it adjacent to 5th. At any rate, I Plan on using the solenoid. Some guys have modified the solenoid to simply "overpower" the lockout, but hopefully the harness ties in and with a simple connection to key on power, shouldn't be an issue.
Who is building your XL?
It’s a great box and it sounds like yours will be even better.
You’ll like the 0.50
On the pump, there’s also this:
Tick Performance Hi-Flow Transmission Fluid Pump
On driveshafts, I went with an SFI CF from PST precision shaft technologies. You can save a few bucks without the SFI sticker if you don’t race
That said I would highly recommend CF.
Last, where are you located?
I’m acquiring parts for a Cobra roadster and would like the TR3160 (and ideally 5.2 Voodoo ).
Good luck
-J
It’s a great box and it sounds like yours will be even better.
You’ll like the 0.50
On the pump, there’s also this:
Tick Performance Hi-Flow Transmission Fluid Pump
On driveshafts, I went with an SFI CF from PST precision shaft technologies. You can save a few bucks without the SFI sticker if you don’t race
That said I would highly recommend CF.
Last, where are you located?
I’m acquiring parts for a Cobra roadster and would like the TR3160 (and ideally 5.2 Voodoo
).Good luck
-J
Who is building your XL?
It’s a great box and it sounds like yours will be even better.
You’ll like the 0.50
On the pump, there’s also this:
Tick Performance Hi-Flow Transmission Fluid Pump
On driveshafts, I went with an SFI CF from PST precision shaft technologies. You can save a few bucks without the SFI sticker if you don’t race
That said I would highly recommend CF.
Last, where are you located?
I’m acquiring parts for a Cobra roadster and would like the TR3160 (and ideally 5.2 Voodoo
Good luck
-J
Thanks,
I'm in FL (Coral Gables...essentially Miami). Private message me, I'm ditching my shortblock and 3160. I've got a guy in CA that's interested in the shortblock (and has shown some interest in the trans) and I'm gonna try to do a compression test this week on video.
As far as the Tick performance pump, that's to support their installation of bungs/sprayers to the front of the slush box to keep it lubricated during launch tilt where all the fluid is driven to the back (so kinda like what a baffle tries to achieve, just with a pump instead).
The front housing for internal pump that I'm adding is the same on the 6060 (and the 3160) to send it to and from the external cooler. I'm not worried about dry gears at the front during some sort of wheelie launch at the drag strip.
I've recently heard of PST and I'm gonna check them out. Right now my budget calls for a DSS CF made specifically for this swap. But I'm always open to competing products.
Truth be told I contacted QA-1 and they do make CF shafts for the IRS (CV) style but not in the length I need for the swap and unfortunately their "custom" drive shaft orders don't accommodate the IRS/CV stuff. So QA-1 is out unfortunately. For my purposes, the DSS should be fine.
Update:
Transmission finally came in from Bowler. Got their full spa treatment. Carbon blockers, Vespel Pads, REM polish. Bowler doesn't do the cryo treatment. They didn't flat out say it's a gimmick, but they basically said they've seen no data that suggests it does anything. They also change the 2nd and 3rd that come "advanced" back to non-advanced.
Additionally, some other notes. I purchased both the OEM style quick connects for the cooler lines as well as some 6 AN fittings. Given that the in/out locations have changed, I may simply opt to make my own 6 AN lines rather than try to modify the OEM hard line. Can't say I won't be sorry to get those hard lines out of the way, they're a pain in the ass when dealing with the starter/headers.
This is obviously a magnum XL. But it's the 2.66 version. I had them install a new face plate that has the pump for the cooler. (like the 6060). Apparently that's no big deal on the 2.66 ratio, but the 2.97 it takes some custom fabbing/massaging.
I also had them swap out the final overdrive to a .50. This, along with the front plate for the cooler make this trans pretty unique/special. With my 4.09's this thing is gonna be REALLY nice. Here's an RPM Gear Profile for 4.09's with R spec wheels and tires:
RPM, (6th, 5th, 4th, 3rd, 2nd, 1st)
1000 (38.6, 24.1, 19.3, 14.8, 10.8, 7.2)
1500 (57.8, 36.2, 28.9, 22.2, 16.2, 10.9)
2000 (77.1, 48.2, 38.6, 29.7, 21.7, 14.5)
2500 (96.4, 60.3, 48.2, 37.0, 27.1, 18.1)
3000 (115.7, 72.3, 57.9, 44.5, 32.5, 21.7)
3500 (135.0, 84.3, 67.5, 51.9, 37.9, 25.3)
4000 (154.3, 96.4, 77.1, 59.3, 43.3, 29.0)
4500 (173.6, 108.5, 86.8, 66.8, 48.8, 32.6)
5000 (192.8, 120.5, 96.4, 74.2, 54.2, 36.2)
5500 (212.1, 132.6, 106.1, 81.6, 59.6, 39.9)
6000 (231.4, 144.6, 115.7, 89.0, 65.0, 43.5)
6500 (250.7, 156.7, 125.4, 96.4, 70.4, 47.1)
7000 (270.0, 168.7, 135.0, 103.8, 75.8, 50.7)
7500 (289.2, 180.8, 144.6, 111.2, 81.2, 54.4)
8000 (308.5, 192.8, 154.3, 118.7, 86.7, 58.0)
8500 (327.8, 204.9, 163.9, 126.1, 92.1, 61.6)
Obviously ignore the absurd theoretical speeds. What this lays out is that I can actually cruise at 80 mph (2100 rpms) and still have a phone conversation.
Also, once I add the blower, this thing becomes a roll race monster. 3rd gear, 4000 rpm (59.3 mph) to 4th gear 8400 rpm (160 mph) is the most optimal 3-4 shift (straight back) for a 60-160 rip. Pretty cool.
4000 (
Transmission finally came in from Bowler. Got their full spa treatment. Carbon blockers, Vespel Pads, REM polish. Bowler doesn't do the cryo treatment. They didn't flat out say it's a gimmick, but they basically said they've seen no data that suggests it does anything. They also change the 2nd and 3rd that come "advanced" back to non-advanced.
Additionally, some other notes. I purchased both the OEM style quick connects for the cooler lines as well as some 6 AN fittings. Given that the in/out locations have changed, I may simply opt to make my own 6 AN lines rather than try to modify the OEM hard line. Can't say I won't be sorry to get those hard lines out of the way, they're a pain in the ass when dealing with the starter/headers.
This is obviously a magnum XL. But it's the 2.66 version. I had them install a new face plate that has the pump for the cooler. (like the 6060). Apparently that's no big deal on the 2.66 ratio, but the 2.97 it takes some custom fabbing/massaging.
I also had them swap out the final overdrive to a .50. This, along with the front plate for the cooler make this trans pretty unique/special. With my 4.09's this thing is gonna be REALLY nice. Here's an RPM Gear Profile for 4.09's with R spec wheels and tires:
RPM, (6th, 5th, 4th, 3rd, 2nd, 1st)
1000 (38.6, 24.1, 19.3, 14.8, 10.8, 7.2)
1500 (57.8, 36.2, 28.9, 22.2, 16.2, 10.9)
2000 (77.1, 48.2, 38.6, 29.7, 21.7, 14.5)
2500 (96.4, 60.3, 48.2, 37.0, 27.1, 18.1)
3000 (115.7, 72.3, 57.9, 44.5, 32.5, 21.7)
3500 (135.0, 84.3, 67.5, 51.9, 37.9, 25.3)
4000 (154.3, 96.4, 77.1, 59.3, 43.3, 29.0)
4500 (173.6, 108.5, 86.8, 66.8, 48.8, 32.6)
5000 (192.8, 120.5, 96.4, 74.2, 54.2, 36.2)
5500 (212.1, 132.6, 106.1, 81.6, 59.6, 39.9)
6000 (231.4, 144.6, 115.7, 89.0, 65.0, 43.5)
6500 (250.7, 156.7, 125.4, 96.4, 70.4, 47.1)
7000 (270.0, 168.7, 135.0, 103.8, 75.8, 50.7)
7500 (289.2, 180.8, 144.6, 111.2, 81.2, 54.4)
8000 (308.5, 192.8, 154.3, 118.7, 86.7, 58.0)
8500 (327.8, 204.9, 163.9, 126.1, 92.1, 61.6)
Obviously ignore the absurd theoretical speeds. What this lays out is that I can actually cruise at 80 mph (2100 rpms) and still have a phone conversation.
Also, once I add the blower, this thing becomes a roll race monster. 3rd gear, 4000 rpm (59.3 mph) to 4th gear 8400 rpm (160 mph) is the most optimal 3-4 shift (straight back) for a 60-160 rip. Pretty cool.
4000 (
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Why swap? Do you plan on big power?
The magnum is likely not going to shit as nice as the 3160.
Sent from my iPhone using svtperformance.com
The magnum is likely not going to shit as nice as the 3160.
Sent from my iPhone using svtperformance.com
Nvm... just saw the blower comments
Sent from my iPhone using svtperformance.com
Sent from my iPhone using svtperformance.com
Won't know until I resell the 3160. I'll price it to move, and if it doesn't sell for $1500 (with MGW) then I'll just keep it for another project sometime later. If I get that out of it, then the swap (without labor/install) is running around $6300. That's doing the installation myself. That doesn't include the new coolant line or a clutch and driveshaft. I could have reused the OEM clutch, but I'm going with something more stout and an aluminum one piece DS isn't that pricey but I'll be going carbon fiber.
At the end of the day, if you can resell your trans and you just want the bare minimum without upgrades it's about $4500-$5000. But if you're doing the swap it's probably because of increased power so that's not gonna really work for most people.
Yep, that is correct. I have have the 2.97 first gear and use the Bowler integrated pump on my faceplated Magnum XL. So it can be done.
Also, now that it has been a few months, how is your Tri-Ax shifter? I had it and didn't like it compared to the MGW I have now. Night and day difference for me.
The trans hasn't gone in the car yet. I'll run the tremec shifter for a beat and see how it is, if I don't like it, I'm going to buy the Tri-Ax. I had a Tri-Ax on my T45 and loved it. I've had the MGW (remote) on the 3160 and it's okay (compared to the direct mount shifter, which is an unfair comparison because just stroking the tremec shifter with the trans in the box feels SOOOO MUCH better than the MGW that was in the car on the 3160). If I don't like the Tri-Ax, I can always sell it for a $40 haircut and get the MGW.
Both have the positive stop set bolt, but MGW doesn't recommend or send it with theirs. I know with the Magnum resolved the overshift and doesn't "need" it but I prefer having belt/suspenders for when I'm banging gears like a maniac.
Some interesting things I'm discovering:
1) I bought a 300 lb digital weight scale. I have plans to weigh the dry trans, cross member, shifter and driveshaft (all together) and compare from the 3160 to the Magnum. I had first initially thought the weight difference would be significant, but I'm anticipating it to be not as bad as I'd thought, here's why:
The 3160 has nearly 13 lbs of "weights" attached for dampers. So whatever the case and integral housing weigh, the 3160 is using a 13 lb handicap.
The Remote shifter (especially the MGW) weighs a good bit (compared to the Magnum direct mount).
The cross member probably isn't a serious movement either way
The Driveshaft (OEM) weighs a shit ton and the Magnum DS, just by it's very nature of being shorter, weighs less, especially when you consider that most people are going to buy an Aluminum or CF shaft for the conversion. The OEM DS isn't just heavier because it's steel, it has an extra joint and supporting bracket with it.
2) Interestingly, I've been going through a unique exercise in utilizing the QA-1 driveshaft for the conversion. QA-1 makes a DS, but it's only sold through ModernDriveline (who has a proprietary Sonnax adapter, which like the other shafts, eliminates the rear CV, but doesn't utilize an adapter plate). From QA-1 I've verified that the critical speed is beyond 200 mph. The tech requested a calculation from the engineers but in the interim, he was very confident the car would be fine up to 200 mph (given the 36" length and 3.2" CF shaft and joints).
As you've probably read in blurry details, the reason Ford opted for a 2 piece DS was the excessive length (with the stubby 3160) and the critical speed beyond 160 mph. There's speculation that they either couldn't get the critical speed necessary out of the length of a CF shaft, OR it was going to be cost prohibitive.
The good news is, along with the anticipated extra weight of an XL tailshaft, the reduced DS length corresponds to a much improved critical speed capacity (and essentially eliminates the need for multiple joints/CV joints).
1) I bought a 300 lb digital weight scale. I have plans to weigh the dry trans, cross member, shifter and driveshaft (all together) and compare from the 3160 to the Magnum. I had first initially thought the weight difference would be significant, but I'm anticipating it to be not as bad as I'd thought, here's why:
The 3160 has nearly 13 lbs of "weights" attached for dampers. So whatever the case and integral housing weigh, the 3160 is using a 13 lb handicap.
The Remote shifter (especially the MGW) weighs a good bit (compared to the Magnum direct mount).
The cross member probably isn't a serious movement either way
The Driveshaft (OEM) weighs a shit ton and the Magnum DS, just by it's very nature of being shorter, weighs less, especially when you consider that most people are going to buy an Aluminum or CF shaft for the conversion. The OEM DS isn't just heavier because it's steel, it has an extra joint and supporting bracket with it.
2) Interestingly, I've been going through a unique exercise in utilizing the QA-1 driveshaft for the conversion. QA-1 makes a DS, but it's only sold through ModernDriveline (who has a proprietary Sonnax adapter, which like the other shafts, eliminates the rear CV, but doesn't utilize an adapter plate). From QA-1 I've verified that the critical speed is beyond 200 mph. The tech requested a calculation from the engineers but in the interim, he was very confident the car would be fine up to 200 mph (given the 36" length and 3.2" CF shaft and joints).
As you've probably read in blurry details, the reason Ford opted for a 2 piece DS was the excessive length (with the stubby 3160) and the critical speed beyond 160 mph. There's speculation that they either couldn't get the critical speed necessary out of the length of a CF shaft, OR it was going to be cost prohibitive.
The good news is, along with the anticipated extra weight of an XL tailshaft, the reduced DS length corresponds to a much improved critical speed capacity (and essentially eliminates the need for multiple joints/CV joints).
Get that thing installed already
I know it’s expensive but I’m sure this will be a great upgrade for your GT350.
-J
I know it’s expensive but I’m sure this will be a great upgrade for your GT350.
-J
True. Rear differential fluid is even worse.
-J
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