Machine Shop Problems

[TRMN8RCRIS]

I decided to take my ticking motor to this local machine shop to get it torn down and inspected for $100 to see what went wrong, what parts broke. They told me it would take a couple of weeks since they are backed up, I was fine with it and waited about 3 weeks in till I finally decided to call them (that was 2 days ago) to get an update to see if they have even touched it, well they decided to go ahead and rebuild the motor without even consulting me on what parts I wanted or what went wrong, they told me it was the pistons, it looked like I ran into some detonation. In my mind I was thinking why did they go ahead and rebuild without even telling me what went wrong, I was about to go off on them on the phone but I did also wanted it rebuilt so I let it go, (big mistake I know)

I asked them what parts did they change out and told me well the pistons, rings, wrist pins, and all the timing components, I asked what pistons, and they told me Icon forged aluminum ones, (I've never heard of Icon for our motors) and asked them what rings and he went with some molly coated rings, I told them those would be no good with my application, since I'm F/I, I told them I wanted them changed out for the total seal steel ones, he said that is fine but he is going to have to tear it down again since the short block is already built and order them, I said okay. After I got off the phone I started searching for these Icon pistons, I found this http://www.summitracing.com/search/...rd-modular-v8/piston-material/forged-aluminum

I've never heard of anyone running these pistons, and I don't really trust these guys anymore with my motor after just going ahead and rebuilding without telling me what went wrong. After talking with a friend that works with a different shop, he told me thats a huge No No, they obviously aren't allowed to go ahead and rebuild without authorization, I'm not sure if there was some miscommunication or this shop is trying to pull a fast one on me, He told me I should go there in person, be aggressive with them get my motor back with all the stock parts and send it some where else. If they start bitching, he told me to go ahead and call the B.A.R since I never actually gave these guys authorization for a rebuild, especially no documentation, all they have from me that I wrote down is my contact information and what car/engine and vin. He told me they pretty much ****ed up big and I don't owe them shit.

This is the last thing I needed, I'm going to show up there randomly tomorrow while they are open and ask to see my motor and all the parts, they can keep all the aftermarket parts they put in that I didn't want in the first place, I'll pay the $100 for the disassembly and inspection but I won't pay for anything else because we never actually agreed upon the rebuild. Now I need to find a different shop.

Why can't anything ever go smoothly?

 

[Brutal Metal]

This is just crazy, we'd NEVER do something like that! Hope it works out for you... FYI the shop has used Icon pistons before but only on economy builds and not for 4.6 modulars.

 

[SlowSVT]

Opps

At least the shop is owning up to the fact they screwed-up. Yea I would be very suspicious of this engine and inform the owner the engine will need to be broken down to the bare crank and inspect everything and replace parts as needed.

The shop should "eat" this job "lock, stock and barrel"! They have created more problems than they solved and took 3 weeks doing it

Chances are they used the same approach as you would rebuilding a passenger car engine. Get a list of the parts they installed perhaps some of it can be salvaged if they got them from a good source but something tells me they just called their distributer and ordered aftermarket "engine rebuild parts for an 03 Cobra" sourced from who knows where. Did they use a torque plate when they bored the block? Did they replace all the TTY bolts? what's the CR and PWC of the pistons? where did they get the valve gear drive components? What a mess!

Something tells me this is going to be an interesting thread. Good luck, I hope this story has a happy ending.

 

[Weather Man]

They bent you over plain and simple.

 

[Zemedici]

They bent you over plain and simple.

this, shady ass shop it sounds like.

 

[DSG2003Mach1]

and now that you told em to put different pistons in it and not what they tried to use theyll try to say that was authorization to owe them for at least some of the work which is a bunch of crap.

good luck op

 

[TRMN8RCRIS]

So I went to the machine shop today to talk to them in person to get all this crap figured out. Pretty much it was a huge miscommunication, which I will admit I did **** up as well, When I first talked to them, I did say that engine will need a rebuild but I didn't tell them I wanted them to do it, I just wanted to know what went wrong, well they thought I did want them to rebuild it which is why they went ahead with it, Also when I called them about what parts he went with and I told him to change the rings, he said thats me letting him go with the rebuild, we argued for a bit about who said what, I told them I'm not paying for parts I don't want in my engine, he is said that is perfectly fine, I will just have to supply the parts I want to him, he will not charge me for the parts he got. I'm perfectly okay with this. That was my main concern, I did not want to pay for something I didn't ask for. He did show me all the parts, pistons and rods are out of the block, only the crank is in. The block is already been bored .20 over so I will have to find pistons to match. Good news is my rods were fine and so was my crank, only the pistons were damaged. I saw them and they did have a lot of scoring on the sides.

Now on to go shopping for some pistons and rings. What does everyone recommend? I'm thinking of keeping the CR as close to stock as I can. What rings should I go with. what else should I change out in the short block?

 

[stradt03]

http://www.svtperformance.com/forum...s-and-Pistons-Billet-FRPP-Oil-Pump&highlight=

 

[TRMN8RCRIS]

http://www.svtperformance.com/forum...s-and-Pistons-Billet-FRPP-Oil-Pump&highlight=

Very Tempting! Not sure how I feel about putting used pistons in though...

 

[Brutal Metal]

So I went to the machine shop today to talk to them in person to get all this crap figured out. Pretty much it was a huge miscommunication, which I will admit I did **** up as well, When I first talked to them, I did say that engine will need a rebuild but I didn't tell them I wanted them to do it, I just wanted to know what went wrong, well they thought I did want them to rebuild it which is why they went ahead with it, Also when I called them about what parts he went with and I told him to change the rings, he said thats me letting him go with the rebuild, we argued for a bit about who said what, I told them I'm not paying for parts I don't want in my engine, he is said that is perfectly fine, I will just have to supply the parts I want to him, he will not charge me for the parts he got. I'm perfectly okay with this. That was my main concern, I did not want to pay for something I didn't ask for. He did show me all the parts, pistons and rods are out of the block, only the crank is in. The block is already been bored .20 over so I will have to find pistons to match. Good news is my rods were fine and so was my crank, only the pistons were damaged. I saw them and they did have a lot of scoring on the sides.

Now on to go shopping for some pistons and rings. What does everyone recommend? I'm thinking of keeping the CR as close to stock as I can. What rings should I go with. what else should I change out in the short block?

single digit cc dished Diamonds are good, Manley and CP too, I'd contact MMR and see if they have any new open box stuff or deals that's .020 over

 

[TRMN8RCRIS]

single digit cc dished Diamonds are good, Manley and CP too, I'd contact MMR and see if they have any new open box stuff or deals that's .020 over

I was actually browsing their website and found some of their MMR/Manley pistons on sale. I saw they offer notching the pistons for bigger cams, I'm not doing any head work now but I do plan on going with stage 3 comp cams in the future, will notching the pistons for bigger cams give me any problems with stock heads/cams? Total seal AP steel rings is the way to go right? I hear stay away from any coating. And lastly pins, the MMR pistons come with thick chromoly steel pins, in another thread I read to go with H13 tool steel pins from Trend, is that necessary? Or will the pins that come with the pistons be enough?

In all reality I won't be seeing 700whp, I think my next big mod is 2.2KB, my dream goal would be a 3.3 lysholm and even with that I don't think any one has gotten near 850whp with that blower. All in all its a street car, I just want to make this build as stout as possible, trying to stay away from future problems. I completely forgot about them installing new timing components, is that a common thing with rebuilds? Should I tell them I want my oem timing components back on? But I also read this would be a good time for upgrading the timing chain tensioner, not sure to what though. Is a high flow billet oil pump necessary? Oh and should I go Arp rod bolts, main bolts, side bolts, and head studs? I think thats all my questions for now lol.

Thanks for the help SVTP!

 

[stradt03]

I was actually browsing their website and found some of their MMR/Manley pistons on sale. I saw they offer notching the pistons for bigger cams, I'm not doing any head work now but I do plan on going with stage 3 comp cams in the future, will notching the pistons for bigger cams give me any problems with stock heads/cams? Total seal AP steel rings is the way to go right? I hear stay away from any coating. And lastly pins, the MMR pistons come with thick chromoly steel pins, in another thread I read to go with H13 tool steel pins from Trend, is that necessary? Or will the pins that come with the pistons be enough?

In all reality I won't be seeing 700whp, I think my next big mod is 2.2KB, my dream goal would be a 3.3 lysholm and even with that I don't think any one has gotten near 850whp with that blower. All in all its a street car, I just want to make this build as stout as possible, trying to stay away from future problems. I completely forgot about them installing new timing components, is that a common thing with rebuilds? Should I tell them I want my oem timing components back on? But I also read this would be a good time for upgrading the timing chain tensioner, not sure to what though. Is a high flow billet oil pump necessary? Oh and should I go Arp rod bolts, main bolts, side bolts, and head studs? I think thats all my questions for now lol.

Thanks for the help SVTP!

Since the engine is out and being rebuilt, you might as well go with the billet oil pump gears and all the ARP fasteners. It is a small amount of money to ensure that your investment is sound.

Also, I didn't see what kind of block you have- if it is Teksid you might want to look at upgrading the timing component dowels and regardless of Iron/Aluminum MoC, I would look at the secondary timing tensioner upgrade from either MMR or Cobra Engineering. Both are made from billet steel and correct mistake Ford made in tensioning the wrong side of the secondary timing chain on the passenger side.

 

[TRMN8RCRIS]

No teksid, just the cobra iron block