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Mach 1
Mach 1 K-member swap, engine removal, and valve spring replacement ("build" thread)
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<blockquote data-quote="starnsey" data-source="post: 14654389" data-attributes="member: 132253"><p>Thanks! Good points. I think I may have touched on a few of them in later posts but I'm not sure. The method I used by the time I got to the last cylinder was a bit different than when I did the write up (which was essentially after the first few tries). Didn't want to have to go back through and take time taking pictures and writing more.</p><p></p><p>But yeah, without a leak down tester, its pretty much impossible as I found out some springs/retainers like to stick to the valves more than others and just end up pushing the valve down. Also, gravity and the spring are your friend in holding the retainers in place: try to utilize gravity to rotate the keeper around to the bottom side of the valve stem once you get the first one on, and let the spring grab it as you pull your (hopefully magnetized) flathead screw driver away. Then with the second retainer, use the magnetized flathead to place the retainer and let the spring grab it and hold it in the grooves as you release tension. Obviously, you don't release the tension until the retainer is at least lined up with the grooves in the valve stem. Also, you obviously don't want a strong magnetized screwdriver, just one that can hold the retainer lightly and then let go or move around without grabbing on to all the other metal surfaces.</p><p></p><p>Just picked up my powdercoated coolant reservoir and crossover tube and ceramic coated headers at lunch today! I'll try to remember to post some pictures later. Supposedly my powdercoated valve covers will be shipping my way today as well but we'll see if that actually happens...</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="starnsey, post: 14654389, member: 132253"] Thanks! Good points. I think I may have touched on a few of them in later posts but I'm not sure. The method I used by the time I got to the last cylinder was a bit different than when I did the write up (which was essentially after the first few tries). Didn't want to have to go back through and take time taking pictures and writing more. But yeah, without a leak down tester, its pretty much impossible as I found out some springs/retainers like to stick to the valves more than others and just end up pushing the valve down. Also, gravity and the spring are your friend in holding the retainers in place: try to utilize gravity to rotate the keeper around to the bottom side of the valve stem once you get the first one on, and let the spring grab it as you pull your (hopefully magnetized) flathead screw driver away. Then with the second retainer, use the magnetized flathead to place the retainer and let the spring grab it and hold it in the grooves as you release tension. Obviously, you don't release the tension until the retainer is at least lined up with the grooves in the valve stem. Also, you obviously don't want a strong magnetized screwdriver, just one that can hold the retainer lightly and then let go or move around without grabbing on to all the other metal surfaces. Just picked up my powdercoated coolant reservoir and crossover tube and ceramic coated headers at lunch today! I'll try to remember to post some pictures later. Supposedly my powdercoated valve covers will be shipping my way today as well but we'll see if that actually happens... [/QUOTE]
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Mach 1 K-member swap, engine removal, and valve spring replacement ("build" thread)
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