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<blockquote data-quote="IronTerp" data-source="post: 1678585" data-attributes="member: 12702"><p>[CODE][/CODE]GT500 weight reduction thread: [ame="[URL]http://s197forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=13162[/URL]"]How Much Does It Weigh? - <a href="http://WWW.S197FORUM.COM" target="_blank">Welcome to S197 Forums. The only forum on the internet dedicated solely to the S197 Mustang!</a>[/ame]</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]1266815[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]1266816[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p><strong><u>Lower Pulley Ring Diameters</u></strong></p><p>Stock...........7.60"</p><p>2 lb..............8.00"</p><p>4 lb..............8.60"</p><p>6 lb..............9.10"</p><p>8 lb..............9.55"</p><p>10 lb............10"</p><p></p><p></p><p><strong><u>Torco "Accelerator" Octane Mixtures</u></strong></p><p> 5gal of 91 with 32 oz of torco = 99</p><p> 5gal of 93 with 32 oz of torco = 101</p><p> 5gal of 93 with 64 oz of torco = 101+?</p><p></p><p> 8gal of 91 with 32 oz of torco = 97</p><p> 8gal of 93 with 32 oz of torco = 99</p><p> 8gal of 93 with 64 oz of torco = 101+?</p><p></p><p> 10gal of 91 with 32 oz of torco = 96</p><p> 10gal of 93 with 32 oz of torco = 98</p><p> 10gal of 93 with 64 oz of torco = 101</p><p></p><p> 15gal of 91 with 32 oz of torco = 94</p><p> 15gal of 93 with 32 oz of torco = 96</p><p> 15gal of 93 with 64 oz of torco = 99</p><p></p><p><strong><u>Rear Tire Slick Options - 16" Rims:</u></strong></p><p>Hoosier Full Slick...................28.0/10.0-16</p><p>Hoosier QTP.........................26 X 9.50-16 LT</p><p>.........................................28 X 11.50-16 LT</p><p>MT ET Drags........................None</p><p>MT ET Streets.....................26X10.50-16LT</p><p>........................................26X11.50-16LT</p><p>........................................28X11.50-16LT</p><p>M & H Racemaster-Full..........26 x 12-16</p><p>M & H Racemaster-Cheater....26 x 12-16</p><p></p><p><strong><u>Clutch Installation Instructions</u></strong></p><p></p><p>1)Disconnect Battery</p><p>2)Get car up on jackstands, tall ones, need 12" under the tires airspace</p><p>3)Remove Shifter handle, bezel/plate and then shifter.</p><p>4)Remove mid pipe</p><p>5)Remove driveshaft (trans plug to keep from leaking or wrap tailshaft with towel/ziploc "diaper") Drain it works too.</p><p>6)Remove Trans mount</p><p>7)Unplug all electrical connections from the trans</p><p>8)Remove clutch inspection cover</p><p>9)Detach clutch cable</p><p>10)Remove lower 4 trans bolts</p><p>11)Support with trans jack</p><p>12)Remove remaining upper trans bolts</p><p>13)Slide trans back and lower trans jack down</p><p>14)Remove Starter 13mm socket, tons of extensions</p><p>15)Remove Bellhousing bolts (remember there are two on the front face holding the bellhousing shield on)</p><p>16)Remove Bellhousing</p><p>17)Remove pressure plate bolts and pressure plate/clutch</p><p>18)Remove flywheel bolts and flywheel</p><p></p><p>Do LDC cooling mod!</p><p></p><p>INSTALL</p><p>19)Be sure bellhousing shield is in place on dowels</p><p>20)Install new flywheel and bolts 60ftlb</p><p>21)Hold clutch plate in place with alignment tool</p><p>22)Attach pressure plate and bolts, 35ftlb (BE SURE clutch alignment tool appears to be sticking straight out before you tighten too hard.)</p><p>22)Remove alignment tool</p><p>22)Install Bellhousing and bolts, remember the two that face forward attaching the bellhousing shield. The two top bellhousing bolts also hold a bracket that supports some wiring. 60ftlbs</p><p>23)Install starter 30ftlbs</p><p>21)Put trans in any gear (with your finger)</p><p>22)Raise trans up with trans jack, insert input shaft into clutch slowly while slowly turning tailshaft (aids alignment)</p><p>23)Push trans all the way forward, install trans bolts 40ftlbs</p><p>24)Install trans mount and bolts 40ftlbs</p><p>25)Reinstall all electrical connections on trans.</p><p>26)Install Clutch cable</p><p>27)Install clutch inspection cover</p><p>28)Reinstall driveshaft and bolts 100ftlbs</p><p>29)Reinstall midpipe 30ftlbs</p><p>30)Reinstall shifter/plate and bezel</p><p>31)Lower car</p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p><a href="http://www.modularfords.com/forums/showthread.php?t=7081&highlight=Modifications" target="_blank">E.T List and Modification Idea! - ModularFords.com</a></p><p></p><p><strong><u>03/04' MISC. WEIGHTS</u></strong></p><p>OEM 17" Chrome w/ F1's..........................49.8</p><p>OEM 17" Chrome w/ MT DR....................53.4</p><p>OEM 17" Chrome w/ Nitto DR................52.4</p><p>Diamond 16x10 Rims w/ ET Street........44.4</p><p>Bogart 16x10 w/ Hoosier 28" slick.........36.4</p><p>Prostar 15x3.5 w/ 165 radialS..................27.2</p><p>Prostar 15x3.5 w/ ET Front........................22.8</p><p>Bogart 15x3.5 w/ ET FronT........................23.2</p><p>1" Hubcentric spacers.................................2.6</p><p>Diamond Racing rims..................................25</p><p>Et Streets - 16 x 11.5 x 26..........................19.4</p><p></p><p>Battery w/ tray...............................................37.6</p><p>Odyssey battery w/ bracket.....................15.4</p><p></p><p>Sway bar w/ brackets.................................12.4</p><p>Spare tire.........................................................26.4</p><p>Jack & Crow bar...........................................6.6</p><p>Trunk pad........................................................6</p><p>Rear Seat - back...........................................25.6</p><p>Rear seat - bottom.....................................11</p><p>Rear seat - head rest..................................5.6</p><p>Custom rear seat delet..............................8</p><p>Mott bar.........................................................7.8</p><p></p><p>Stock H pipe................................................36</p><p>Magnaflow catted X.................................13.4</p><p>Prochamber for headers.........................16.4</p><p>Exhaust manifolds (2)...............................16.8</p><p>MAC long tube headers..........................26.5</p><p></p><p>Eaton supercharger..................................35</p><p>OEM plenum...............................................2.7</p><p>2.3 Gen II Whipple....................................47</p><p>Accufab plenum........................................2.4</p><p></p><p>Strange 10 way struts (2).......................24.4</p><p></p><p><strong><u>'03 & '04 Cobra Supercharger Porting and Options:</u></strong></p><p>Stage 1..................................................30+ HP...................$295</p><p>Stage 4..................................................50+ HP, 16+ TQ.......$545</p><p>Stage 4 w/ OEM TB & Plenum......................60+ HP, 16+ TQ......$745</p><p>Stage 5..................................................55+ HP, 25+ TQ.......$695</p><p>Stage 5+ w/ enlarged single-blade plenum.....65+ HP, 35+ TQ.......$795</p><p>Stage 5+ w/ welded OEM TB & Plenum..........65+ HP, 35+ TQ.......$895</p><p>Stage 5+ w/ Accufab welded Plenum............70+ HP, 40+ TQ.......$895</p><p>Stage 5+ w/ large oval TB & welded Plenum...75+ HP, 45+ TQ......$1395</p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p><strong><u>Optimizing Ice Box Strategies at the Drag Strip</u></strong></p><p>1) It is possible to get a IAT2 cooling benefit from the PFab, LFP, True Forge style intercooler reservoir if used correctly. Certainly having a larger capacity tank in the trunk can have big advantages, but for the majority of us, the expense and hassle of this setup does not merit the limited track opportunities where it will come in handy. Plus, it weighs more!!! (even though the weight is at least over the rear wheels.....).</p><p>2) Obviously cooler days in the 50's and 60's will help here, but this is where you're going to have the best opportunity to set PR's with Terminators anyway. We race for fun in the summer and for records in March, April, October, and November! It will certainly help in the heat, but not to the same degree.</p><p>3) Track rentals or uncrowded/short wait track days, where you do not have to wait long in the staging lanes, is a big benefit.</p><p>4) You need to cool down the intercooler/supercharger as much as possible after you arrive at the track or make a run, by draining and adding ice in the pit area and letting the IC pump circulate for 20-30 minutes. Make sure your battery is good to go here! Do this immediately after you return to the pits. Sometimes I'll go thru 2 iceing cycles here, but one good one will usually cool it down pretty well.</p><p>5) Recommend a 45 to 60 minute wait between runs.</p><p>6) To maximize your iceing strategy, the last thing you do before leaving for the staging lanes is drain the reservoir tank again and then add 4-5 "blocks" of ice, (see pic below), into your reservoir tank, topping it off with typical bag ice chips. Your IC pump will be off at this time. You can just use regular chip ice, but it will probably be gone during your run in 2nd gear or so, while the blocks can possibly last through 4th gear.</p><p>7) Advance to the staging lanes and keep your car off as much as possible while you're waiting in line. This will conserve your ice and keep your supercharger cooler.</p><p>8) Make your run and watch your ET/MPH potentially improve to new records!</p><p></p><p>I fill 25 or so of these with water, (about 2/3rds full), the night before going to the track, and right before I leave for the staging lanes, pull 4-5 of them out of the cooler, tear the cup away from the ice block and drop the block into the tank.</p><p><a href="http://imageshack.us" target="_blank"><img src="http://img356.imageshack.us/img356/6869/icecubes001wc4.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></a></p><p></p><p>Use this setup to "jumper" your IC pump in the pits:</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]1266817[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p><strong><u>IronTerp 03' Cobra Performance Modifications:</u></strong></p><p>Steigemeier Stage IV ported Eaton</p><p>2.90 RR upper pulley, 6 lb. lower pulley</p><p>Dragon throttle body & Posi ported plenum</p><p>Nazman ported lower intake manifold</p><p>MAC long tube headers w/ MAC off road ProChamber</p><p>Magnaflow catback</p><p>Amazon CAI w/ 10" S & B filter</p><p>BAP w/ wire upgrade</p><p>NGK TR7 Spark Plugs gapped at .035</p><p>MAFxtender</p><p>Street tune: 21 degrees timing, 11.6 A/F on 93 octane</p><p>Race tune: 24 degrees timing, 11.6 A/F on 101 octane</p><p></p><p>MGW shifter</p><p>UPR Front K member kit w/ 12"/250 lb springs & Stange adjustable struts</p><p>QA1 adjustable rear shocks, IRS bushings, brackets, & brace</p><p>MM full length subframe connectors</p><p>Bogart D-10's with ET Fronts and Hoosier 28" slicks</p><p>Race weight = 3,600 w/ driver (349 lbs of weight reduction)</p><p></p><p><a href="http://imageshack.us" target="_blank"><img src="http://img379.imageshack.us/img379/2387/dynographs001ac6.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></a></p><p></p><p><strong><u>At Home Prep:</u></strong></p><p>Install slicks and skinnies (if trailering)</p><p>Install Odyssey Battery</p><p>Remove rear seat and install RSD kit</p><p>Remove "junk from trunk"</p><p>Remove front sway bar</p><p>Remove passenger seat (especially if driving to track and need to pack slicks/skinnies)</p><p>Remove CAI shield</p><p>Install Race Tune via XCal II</p><p>Drain Coolant out of Intercoolant Reservoir and replace with water</p><p>Gasoline Management: Make sure there's 5 gallons of gas in tank at track</p><p>Pack Tools (especially for half shaft replacement)</p><p>Pack ice: 25 cups & 3 bags</p><p>Pack Air pressure gauge, torque wrench, helmet, Torco, IC jumper relay, Half shaft</p><p></p><p><strong><u>At Track:</u></strong></p><p>Install slicks & skinnies (if not trailering)</p><p>Check & set correct air pressure in slicks/skinnies</p><p>Install can of Torco with 5 gallons of 93 octane = 101 octane</p><p>Adjust front struts and rear shocks (if applicable)</p><p>Move front seat up slightly (to reach 3rd gear!)</p><p>Remove passenger side headlight</p><p></p><p><strong><u>Between Runs:</u></strong></p><p>Re-torque slicks and skinnies</p><p>Re-check tire pressure</p><p>Adhere to proper icing strategies (<a href="http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/how-230/565623-ironterps-ice-box-strategies.html" target="_blank">IronTerp's Ice Box Strategies.</a>)</p><p>50+ minutes between runs</p><p></p><p>In the last 3 years, we've pretty much figured out the combination of ingredients necessary for running 10's with an Eaton. There's obviously some give and take involved, and running in cool weather with decent track condition can certainly help, but here you go:</p><p></p><p><strong><u>Eaton-Powered Terminator 10 second ET Ingredients:</u></strong></p><p></p><p>- While 500 RWHP is enough with other factors taken care of (suspension, etc), hitting the 520 SAE level makes it easier. That means possibly long tubes, single blade throttle bodies, catless midpipes, and aggresive tuning with higher octane fuel.</p><p></p><p>- Weight reduction is the same as adding horsepower, and is especially important when it's off the front end. I take about 350 lbs out of my car when I'm going for PR's at the track. Figure this is the same as adding 15-20 RWHP. Getting the weight off the front end, (small batteries, removal of front sway bar, skinny setup, tubular K member, etc), will assist tremendously with front to rear weight distribution and can be a big assist in lowering ET.</p><p></p><p>- Slick/skinny setup......Huge help. Good, high quality setup here will reduce about 80 lbs of weight, and this reduces rotational resistance as well. Skinny's on the front will take 50-53 lbs off the front end and provide less rolling reistance with the narrower front tire on the pavement. Rear slicks will greatly aid in traction and allow higher RPM launches, less breakage, and lower 60' times.</p><p></p><p>- The Eaton runs hot. Aggressive icing strategies will help big time with keeping the blower cool and allowing maximal performance through the back half of the run. Otherwise, more than likely, significant timing can be pulled with a resultant loss of power.</p><p></p><p>These are the 4 main tangible factors that contribute most to achieving a 10 second timeslip with an Eaton powered Terminator. An aggressive driving approach, which includes appropriate pre stage burnouts, high RPM launches (5,500+), and aggressive shifting, can shave up to .50 off 1/4 mile ET. But, there are folks that are more conservative that have hit 10's without these techniques, although this is rare.</p><p></p><p><strong><strong>JDM hit 608.66/605.46 STD on their own in-house Dynojet. Stock short block, Apten port, Crower cams, Accufab TB, Headers, and a 3.0/8 lb combo.. This was done in April, 2004 and despite the increased knowledge out now about these Eaton setups, nobody has duplicated this. Shortly after the dyno testing, JDM ran 10.80's with an auto/IRS combo and later that summer, they ran 10.08 at 136 with a healthy shot of nitrous.</strong></strong></p><p><strong><strong></strong></strong></p><p><strong><strong>Screamngdave hit 600.92/561.42 STD in September, 2007 with his stock short block, Stage IV Eaton setup. The dyno testing was done at ProDyno in North Carolina. This Terminator had Dave's custom ported heads, custom ground cams, headers and a 2.80/2 lb combo. Dave ended up running 10.88 @ 127.14 w/ 1.64 with his 6spd/IRS combo and a small shot of nitrous. He ran 11.20's on blower only.</strong></strong></p><p><strong><strong></strong></strong></p><p><strong><strong>Nobody has come close to these two fellas on a legitimate Dynojet until this past year. Evil 03 hit 575.2/565.2 STD on Fastlane's dyno back in March, 2010 with his Stage IV setup that had a 2.80/6lb combo, Stage 3 Comp cams, Accufab TB, headers, etc. Then in May, 2010 iBiTe03 hit 564hp/551tq on Bob Kurgan's Dynojet with his Posi race port, the same Stage 3 Comp cams, and a 2.80/4 lb combo. iBiTe03 has since hit a 9.91 at 136 with his 4 speed/SRA combo. It appears that with the right supporting setup, that adding more aggressive aftermarket cams to an Eaton setup can push them to another horsepower level.</strong></strong></p><p><strong><strong></strong></strong></p><p><strong><strong>And that's it folks......Broke7 hit 544 SAE with his Stage III setup and backed it up with a 10.89 at 127 at the track to be unofficially the highest stock block/heads eaton setup. The folks that claim they are going to achieve all these big dyno numbers with the Eaton are in all likelihood not being realistic unless they are willing to go into the motor. The data out there indicates that the Posi Race Port and the Steigemeier ports are in actuality producing very similar power levels and there is no clear superiority of one port over the other. </strong></strong></p><p><strong><strong></strong></strong></p><p><strong><strong>The reality is that if one can achieve 530+ SAE with an Eaton setup without nitrous, he's doing pretty darn good and is in select company........ </strong></strong></p><p><strong></strong></p><p><strong></strong></p><p><strong>Awesome man! You are going to love it. I have been running a set of mt et streets 26/11.5/16 on pony rims and stock front runners. This setup works ok imo. The et streets side wall is to soft and the stock front runners in combo with the cheater slicks out back can sway some on the top end. I still have the front sway bar installed to try and keep the sway down. I have found the best tire pressure for me with this setup is 13.5 psi. Hooks good(1.65 to 1.70 60ft) and it doesn't sway that bad. I bet some low 1.5s are possible with stock suspension, full slicks and skinnies and the front sway bar removed. I hope so at least. I have a set of race stars coming in this week and I hope to run the car one last time with them this year this weekend. I shift at 6200rpms and I launch at around 3500 rolling on the gas and off the clutch. Any higher it wants to spin to much and lower it wants to bog. The hardest thing for me to get used to is the solid rear axle. I have no traction on the street with street tires. 0. It will spin on demand in second and get violently loose hitting 3rd hard on the street. A drag radial would be a big help. All in all these cars are sweet and I am sure you will love yours. They make huge power with such simple mods. I mean you can't beat a 600+rwhp car with the stock blower and run mid 10s or better with basic bolt-ons. Its funny I said I wasn't going to run mine at the track for a while when I picked it up but I already have over 30 passes on it with only 3,000 miles. Congrats on your purchase!</strong></p><p><strong></strong></p><p><strong>GT500 Weight Loss thread:</strong></p><p><strong><a href="http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/shelby-gt500-150/576066-fat-girl-diet.html" target="_blank">Fat Girl on a Diet</a></strong></p><p><strong></strong></p><p><strong>Here are the "approximate" boost levels for various M-122 combinations:</strong></p><p><strong></strong></p><p><strong>3.00" (OEM).............9 lbs</strong></p><p><strong>2.80"......................11 lbs</strong></p><p><strong>2.60"......................13 lbs</strong></p><p><strong>2.50"......................14 lbs</strong></p><p><strong>2.40"......................15 lbs (My setup)</strong></p><p><strong>2.60"/10% lower......15.5-16 lbs</strong></p><p><strong>2.20"......................16.5-17 lbs </strong></p><p><strong>2.60"/15% lower......16.5-17 lbs</strong></p><p><strong>2.20"/10% lower......20+/- lbs (Combo run by Serickson)</strong></p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p><strong><strong><u>Gates Micro-V 10 Rib Supercharger Belts - GT500</u></strong></strong></p><p><strong>K100810.....81.61"</strong></p><p><strong>K100822.....82.20"</strong></p><p><strong>K100830.....83.05"</strong></p><p><strong>K100840.....84.62" (our factory replacement belt)</strong></p><p><strong>K100852.....85.33"</strong></p><p><strong>K100860.....86.08"</strong></p><p><strong>K100870.....87.03"</strong></p><p><strong>K100877.....87.76"</strong></p><p><strong>K100879.....87.93"</strong></p><p><strong>K100891.....89.13"</strong></p><p><strong>K100895.....89.42"</strong></p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="IronTerp, post: 1678585, member: 12702"] [CODE][/CODE]GT500 weight reduction thread: [ame="[URL]http://s197forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=13162[/URL]"]How Much Does It Weigh? - [URL='http://WWW.S197FORUM.COM']Welcome to S197 Forums. The only forum on the internet dedicated solely to the S197 Mustang![/URL][/ame] [ATTACH type="full" alt="EatonPulleyCombinations.jpg"]1266815[/ATTACH] [ATTACH type="full" alt="AlternatorPulleyCombinations09-13-0.jpg"]1266816[/ATTACH] [B][U]Lower Pulley Ring Diameters[/U][/B] Stock...........7.60" 2 lb..............8.00" 4 lb..............8.60" 6 lb..............9.10" 8 lb..............9.55" 10 lb............10" [B][U]Torco "Accelerator" Octane Mixtures[/U][/B] 5gal of 91 with 32 oz of torco = 99 5gal of 93 with 32 oz of torco = 101 5gal of 93 with 64 oz of torco = 101+? 8gal of 91 with 32 oz of torco = 97 8gal of 93 with 32 oz of torco = 99 8gal of 93 with 64 oz of torco = 101+? 10gal of 91 with 32 oz of torco = 96 10gal of 93 with 32 oz of torco = 98 10gal of 93 with 64 oz of torco = 101 15gal of 91 with 32 oz of torco = 94 15gal of 93 with 32 oz of torco = 96 15gal of 93 with 64 oz of torco = 99 [B][U]Rear Tire Slick Options - 16" Rims:[/U][/B] Hoosier Full Slick...................28.0/10.0-16 Hoosier QTP.........................26 X 9.50-16 LT .........................................28 X 11.50-16 LT MT ET Drags........................None MT ET Streets.....................26X10.50-16LT ........................................26X11.50-16LT ........................................28X11.50-16LT M & H Racemaster-Full..........26 x 12-16 M & H Racemaster-Cheater....26 x 12-16 [B][U]Clutch Installation Instructions[/U][/B] 1)Disconnect Battery 2)Get car up on jackstands, tall ones, need 12" under the tires airspace 3)Remove Shifter handle, bezel/plate and then shifter. 4)Remove mid pipe 5)Remove driveshaft (trans plug to keep from leaking or wrap tailshaft with towel/ziploc "diaper") Drain it works too. 6)Remove Trans mount 7)Unplug all electrical connections from the trans 8)Remove clutch inspection cover 9)Detach clutch cable 10)Remove lower 4 trans bolts 11)Support with trans jack 12)Remove remaining upper trans bolts 13)Slide trans back and lower trans jack down 14)Remove Starter 13mm socket, tons of extensions 15)Remove Bellhousing bolts (remember there are two on the front face holding the bellhousing shield on) 16)Remove Bellhousing 17)Remove pressure plate bolts and pressure plate/clutch 18)Remove flywheel bolts and flywheel Do LDC cooling mod! INSTALL 19)Be sure bellhousing shield is in place on dowels 20)Install new flywheel and bolts 60ftlb 21)Hold clutch plate in place with alignment tool 22)Attach pressure plate and bolts, 35ftlb (BE SURE clutch alignment tool appears to be sticking straight out before you tighten too hard.) 22)Remove alignment tool 22)Install Bellhousing and bolts, remember the two that face forward attaching the bellhousing shield. The two top bellhousing bolts also hold a bracket that supports some wiring. 60ftlbs 23)Install starter 30ftlbs 21)Put trans in any gear (with your finger) 22)Raise trans up with trans jack, insert input shaft into clutch slowly while slowly turning tailshaft (aids alignment) 23)Push trans all the way forward, install trans bolts 40ftlbs 24)Install trans mount and bolts 40ftlbs 25)Reinstall all electrical connections on trans. 26)Install Clutch cable 27)Install clutch inspection cover 28)Reinstall driveshaft and bolts 100ftlbs 29)Reinstall midpipe 30ftlbs 30)Reinstall shifter/plate and bezel 31)Lower car [URL='http://www.modularfords.com/forums/showthread.php?t=7081&highlight=Modifications']E.T List and Modification Idea! - ModularFords.com[/URL] [B][U]03/04' MISC. WEIGHTS[/U][/B] OEM 17" Chrome w/ F1's..........................49.8 OEM 17" Chrome w/ MT DR....................53.4 OEM 17" Chrome w/ Nitto DR................52.4 Diamond 16x10 Rims w/ ET Street........44.4 Bogart 16x10 w/ Hoosier 28" slick.........36.4 Prostar 15x3.5 w/ 165 radialS..................27.2 Prostar 15x3.5 w/ ET Front........................22.8 Bogart 15x3.5 w/ ET FronT........................23.2 1" Hubcentric spacers.................................2.6 Diamond Racing rims..................................25 Et Streets - 16 x 11.5 x 26..........................19.4 Battery w/ tray...............................................37.6 Odyssey battery w/ bracket.....................15.4 Sway bar w/ brackets.................................12.4 Spare tire.........................................................26.4 Jack & Crow bar...........................................6.6 Trunk pad........................................................6 Rear Seat - back...........................................25.6 Rear seat - bottom.....................................11 Rear seat - head rest..................................5.6 Custom rear seat delet..............................8 Mott bar.........................................................7.8 Stock H pipe................................................36 Magnaflow catted X.................................13.4 Prochamber for headers.........................16.4 Exhaust manifolds (2)...............................16.8 MAC long tube headers..........................26.5 Eaton supercharger..................................35 OEM plenum...............................................2.7 2.3 Gen II Whipple....................................47 Accufab plenum........................................2.4 Strange 10 way struts (2).......................24.4 [B][U]'03 & '04 Cobra Supercharger Porting and Options:[/U][/B] Stage 1..................................................30+ HP...................$295 Stage 4..................................................50+ HP, 16+ TQ.......$545 Stage 4 w/ OEM TB & Plenum......................60+ HP, 16+ TQ......$745 Stage 5..................................................55+ HP, 25+ TQ.......$695 Stage 5+ w/ enlarged single-blade plenum.....65+ HP, 35+ TQ.......$795 Stage 5+ w/ welded OEM TB & Plenum..........65+ HP, 35+ TQ.......$895 Stage 5+ w/ Accufab welded Plenum............70+ HP, 40+ TQ.......$895 Stage 5+ w/ large oval TB & welded Plenum...75+ HP, 45+ TQ......$1395 [B][U]Optimizing Ice Box Strategies at the Drag Strip[/U][/B] 1) It is possible to get a IAT2 cooling benefit from the PFab, LFP, True Forge style intercooler reservoir if used correctly. Certainly having a larger capacity tank in the trunk can have big advantages, but for the majority of us, the expense and hassle of this setup does not merit the limited track opportunities where it will come in handy. Plus, it weighs more!!! (even though the weight is at least over the rear wheels.....). 2) Obviously cooler days in the 50's and 60's will help here, but this is where you're going to have the best opportunity to set PR's with Terminators anyway. We race for fun in the summer and for records in March, April, October, and November! It will certainly help in the heat, but not to the same degree. 3) Track rentals or uncrowded/short wait track days, where you do not have to wait long in the staging lanes, is a big benefit. 4) You need to cool down the intercooler/supercharger as much as possible after you arrive at the track or make a run, by draining and adding ice in the pit area and letting the IC pump circulate for 20-30 minutes. Make sure your battery is good to go here! Do this immediately after you return to the pits. Sometimes I'll go thru 2 iceing cycles here, but one good one will usually cool it down pretty well. 5) Recommend a 45 to 60 minute wait between runs. 6) To maximize your iceing strategy, the last thing you do before leaving for the staging lanes is drain the reservoir tank again and then add 4-5 "blocks" of ice, (see pic below), into your reservoir tank, topping it off with typical bag ice chips. Your IC pump will be off at this time. You can just use regular chip ice, but it will probably be gone during your run in 2nd gear or so, while the blocks can possibly last through 4th gear. 7) Advance to the staging lanes and keep your car off as much as possible while you're waiting in line. This will conserve your ice and keep your supercharger cooler. 8) Make your run and watch your ET/MPH potentially improve to new records! I fill 25 or so of these with water, (about 2/3rds full), the night before going to the track, and right before I leave for the staging lanes, pull 4-5 of them out of the cooler, tear the cup away from the ice block and drop the block into the tank. [URL='http://imageshack.us'][IMG]http://img356.imageshack.us/img356/6869/icecubes001wc4.jpg[/IMG][/URL] Use this setup to "jumper" your IC pump in the pits: [ATTACH type="full" alt="ICjump.jpg"]1266817[/ATTACH] [B][U]IronTerp 03' Cobra Performance Modifications:[/U][/B] Steigemeier Stage IV ported Eaton 2.90 RR upper pulley, 6 lb. lower pulley Dragon throttle body & Posi ported plenum Nazman ported lower intake manifold MAC long tube headers w/ MAC off road ProChamber Magnaflow catback Amazon CAI w/ 10" S & B filter BAP w/ wire upgrade NGK TR7 Spark Plugs gapped at .035 MAFxtender Street tune: 21 degrees timing, 11.6 A/F on 93 octane Race tune: 24 degrees timing, 11.6 A/F on 101 octane MGW shifter UPR Front K member kit w/ 12"/250 lb springs & Stange adjustable struts QA1 adjustable rear shocks, IRS bushings, brackets, & brace MM full length subframe connectors Bogart D-10's with ET Fronts and Hoosier 28" slicks Race weight = 3,600 w/ driver (349 lbs of weight reduction) [URL='http://imageshack.us'][IMG]http://img379.imageshack.us/img379/2387/dynographs001ac6.jpg[/IMG][/URL] [B][U]At Home Prep:[/U][/B] Install slicks and skinnies (if trailering) Install Odyssey Battery Remove rear seat and install RSD kit Remove "junk from trunk" Remove front sway bar Remove passenger seat (especially if driving to track and need to pack slicks/skinnies) Remove CAI shield Install Race Tune via XCal II Drain Coolant out of Intercoolant Reservoir and replace with water Gasoline Management: Make sure there's 5 gallons of gas in tank at track Pack Tools (especially for half shaft replacement) Pack ice: 25 cups & 3 bags Pack Air pressure gauge, torque wrench, helmet, Torco, IC jumper relay, Half shaft [B][U]At Track:[/U][/B] Install slicks & skinnies (if not trailering) Check & set correct air pressure in slicks/skinnies Install can of Torco with 5 gallons of 93 octane = 101 octane Adjust front struts and rear shocks (if applicable) Move front seat up slightly (to reach 3rd gear!) Remove passenger side headlight [B][U]Between Runs:[/U][/B] Re-torque slicks and skinnies Re-check tire pressure Adhere to proper icing strategies ([URL="http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/how-230/565623-ironterps-ice-box-strategies.html"]IronTerp's Ice Box Strategies.[/URL]) 50+ minutes between runs In the last 3 years, we've pretty much figured out the combination of ingredients necessary for running 10's with an Eaton. There's obviously some give and take involved, and running in cool weather with decent track condition can certainly help, but here you go: [B][U]Eaton-Powered Terminator 10 second ET Ingredients:[/U][/B] - While 500 RWHP is enough with other factors taken care of (suspension, etc), hitting the 520 SAE level makes it easier. That means possibly long tubes, single blade throttle bodies, catless midpipes, and aggresive tuning with higher octane fuel. - Weight reduction is the same as adding horsepower, and is especially important when it's off the front end. I take about 350 lbs out of my car when I'm going for PR's at the track. Figure this is the same as adding 15-20 RWHP. Getting the weight off the front end, (small batteries, removal of front sway bar, skinny setup, tubular K member, etc), will assist tremendously with front to rear weight distribution and can be a big assist in lowering ET. - Slick/skinny setup......Huge help. Good, high quality setup here will reduce about 80 lbs of weight, and this reduces rotational resistance as well. Skinny's on the front will take 50-53 lbs off the front end and provide less rolling reistance with the narrower front tire on the pavement. Rear slicks will greatly aid in traction and allow higher RPM launches, less breakage, and lower 60' times. - The Eaton runs hot. Aggressive icing strategies will help big time with keeping the blower cool and allowing maximal performance through the back half of the run. Otherwise, more than likely, significant timing can be pulled with a resultant loss of power. These are the 4 main tangible factors that contribute most to achieving a 10 second timeslip with an Eaton powered Terminator. An aggressive driving approach, which includes appropriate pre stage burnouts, high RPM launches (5,500+), and aggressive shifting, can shave up to .50 off 1/4 mile ET. But, there are folks that are more conservative that have hit 10's without these techniques, although this is rare. [B][B]JDM hit 608.66/605.46 STD on their own in-house Dynojet. Stock short block, Apten port, Crower cams, Accufab TB, Headers, and a 3.0/8 lb combo.. This was done in April, 2004 and despite the increased knowledge out now about these Eaton setups, nobody has duplicated this. Shortly after the dyno testing, JDM ran 10.80's with an auto/IRS combo and later that summer, they ran 10.08 at 136 with a healthy shot of nitrous. Screamngdave hit 600.92/561.42 STD in September, 2007 with his stock short block, Stage IV Eaton setup. The dyno testing was done at ProDyno in North Carolina. This Terminator had Dave's custom ported heads, custom ground cams, headers and a 2.80/2 lb combo. Dave ended up running 10.88 @ 127.14 w/ 1.64 with his 6spd/IRS combo and a small shot of nitrous. He ran 11.20's on blower only. Nobody has come close to these two fellas on a legitimate Dynojet until this past year. Evil 03 hit 575.2/565.2 STD on Fastlane's dyno back in March, 2010 with his Stage IV setup that had a 2.80/6lb combo, Stage 3 Comp cams, Accufab TB, headers, etc. Then in May, 2010 iBiTe03 hit 564hp/551tq on Bob Kurgan's Dynojet with his Posi race port, the same Stage 3 Comp cams, and a 2.80/4 lb combo. iBiTe03 has since hit a 9.91 at 136 with his 4 speed/SRA combo. It appears that with the right supporting setup, that adding more aggressive aftermarket cams to an Eaton setup can push them to another horsepower level. And that's it folks......Broke7 hit 544 SAE with his Stage III setup and backed it up with a 10.89 at 127 at the track to be unofficially the highest stock block/heads eaton setup. The folks that claim they are going to achieve all these big dyno numbers with the Eaton are in all likelihood not being realistic unless they are willing to go into the motor. The data out there indicates that the Posi Race Port and the Steigemeier ports are in actuality producing very similar power levels and there is no clear superiority of one port over the other. The reality is that if one can achieve 530+ SAE with an Eaton setup without nitrous, he's doing pretty darn good and is in select company........ [/B] Awesome man! You are going to love it. I have been running a set of mt et streets 26/11.5/16 on pony rims and stock front runners. This setup works ok imo. The et streets side wall is to soft and the stock front runners in combo with the cheater slicks out back can sway some on the top end. I still have the front sway bar installed to try and keep the sway down. I have found the best tire pressure for me with this setup is 13.5 psi. Hooks good(1.65 to 1.70 60ft) and it doesn't sway that bad. I bet some low 1.5s are possible with stock suspension, full slicks and skinnies and the front sway bar removed. I hope so at least. I have a set of race stars coming in this week and I hope to run the car one last time with them this year this weekend. I shift at 6200rpms and I launch at around 3500 rolling on the gas and off the clutch. Any higher it wants to spin to much and lower it wants to bog. The hardest thing for me to get used to is the solid rear axle. I have no traction on the street with street tires. 0. It will spin on demand in second and get violently loose hitting 3rd hard on the street. A drag radial would be a big help. All in all these cars are sweet and I am sure you will love yours. They make huge power with such simple mods. I mean you can't beat a 600+rwhp car with the stock blower and run mid 10s or better with basic bolt-ons. Its funny I said I wasn't going to run mine at the track for a while when I picked it up but I already have over 30 passes on it with only 3,000 miles. Congrats on your purchase! GT500 Weight Loss thread: [URL="http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/shelby-gt500-150/576066-fat-girl-diet.html"]Fat Girl on a Diet[/URL] Here are the "approximate" boost levels for various M-122 combinations: 3.00" (OEM).............9 lbs 2.80"......................11 lbs 2.60"......................13 lbs 2.50"......................14 lbs 2.40"......................15 lbs (My setup) 2.60"/10% lower......15.5-16 lbs 2.20"......................16.5-17 lbs 2.60"/15% lower......16.5-17 lbs 2.20"/10% lower......20+/- lbs (Combo run by Serickson)[/B] [B][B][U]Gates Micro-V 10 Rib Supercharger Belts - GT500[/U][/B] K100810.....81.61" K100822.....82.20" K100830.....83.05" K100840.....84.62" (our factory replacement belt) K100852.....85.33" K100860.....86.08" K100870.....87.03" K100877.....87.76" K100879.....87.93" K100891.....89.13" K100895.....89.42"[/B] [/QUOTE]
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