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Mustang Forums
2011-2014 Mustangs
Driveline/Suspension
Lowering help?
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<blockquote data-quote="Norm Peterson" data-source="post: 16130484" data-attributes="member: 193960"><p>Actually, I'd put the PHB on a "wait and see" list. Get it only if you discover that you really do need it, not just because right now you think you might. Reports that you may have read about how far the axle may have moved tend to be exaggerated because other peoples' measurements may not have been made under the same vehicle condition.</p><p></p><p>When lowering and the various "control arms" are still OE, you want to loosen all of the control arm bolts and settle the car in at its new ride height before retorquing them (and this would include the OE PHB's bushings assuming that you're going to give it a chance at remaining OK). Retorquing MUST be done with the full car weight resting on the wheels, which means on ramps or on a drive-on lift. Otherwise, you're likely to not get as much "drop" as you're expecting. Worst case, now that the bushings are preloaded by the lowering, you can overstress the bushings themselves (possibly tearing them).</p><p></p><p>At least consider the more moderate amounts of lowering. Steering and suspension tend to deteriorate the further away from OE ride height you go, unless you're going to correct those things (there's more to this than what a normal alignment gets involved with). Appearance-wise, a "slammed" car always looks like it's overloaded (or the springs have sagged badly) when the tire is clearly not centered in the wheel opening. Tire to fender gap at the top gets smaller, but that's the only place (at the very bottom of the car, the gaps get bigger).</p><p></p><p></p><p>Norm</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Norm Peterson, post: 16130484, member: 193960"] Actually, I'd put the PHB on a "wait and see" list. Get it only if you discover that you really do need it, not just because right now you think you might. Reports that you may have read about how far the axle may have moved tend to be exaggerated because other peoples' measurements may not have been made under the same vehicle condition. When lowering and the various "control arms" are still OE, you want to loosen all of the control arm bolts and settle the car in at its new ride height before retorquing them (and this would include the OE PHB's bushings assuming that you're going to give it a chance at remaining OK). Retorquing MUST be done with the full car weight resting on the wheels, which means on ramps or on a drive-on lift. Otherwise, you're likely to not get as much "drop" as you're expecting. Worst case, now that the bushings are preloaded by the lowering, you can overstress the bushings themselves (possibly tearing them). At least consider the more moderate amounts of lowering. Steering and suspension tend to deteriorate the further away from OE ride height you go, unless you're going to correct those things (there's more to this than what a normal alignment gets involved with). Appearance-wise, a "slammed" car always looks like it's overloaded (or the springs have sagged badly) when the tire is clearly not centered in the wheel opening. Tire to fender gap at the top gets smaller, but that's the only place (at the very bottom of the car, the gaps get bigger). Norm [/QUOTE]
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Driveline/Suspension
Lowering help?
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