Lower control arms, for those thinking about them.

TrackpackGT

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They don't do anything for wheel hop. I don't care what anyone says, mine does the exact same wheel hopping it did before I installed them. It seems the upper control arm and/or lowering springs seems to take care of it. The only thing I've noticed from my new LCA's is noise. I greased them on the outside of the bushing, but I guess I should have filled them when assembling them. I may have to get some grease fittings installed. I guess these might make a difference in an all out racing situation, but for a daily driver, I noticed no difference.
I thought I should post what I feel is accurate info as I watched several videos claiming these reduce or eliminate wheel hop. I even get it in 2nd gear. I've also heard the crappy oem shocks don't help. My next mods are most likely Koni sports and either Ford Racing P springs or Steeda Sports. I only want about a 1" drop as this is my daily and our roads pretty much suck and I have a short, steep driveway.
 

50blackout

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What brand did you get? The J&M's in your sig? I got the BMR LCA's with the new bushings they will be offering in the future. I would say they definitely helped my wheel hop, but they did not get rid of it totally.

I had the stock GT500 track pack LCA's and BMR was definitely an upgrade. I can now go WOT in 2nd gear, where before the axle would just vibrate real bad. I have heard that Relocation Brackets will cure the wheel hop, and the only reason I don't have them is because I wouldn't be able to take it to my favorite car wash. They would get caught on the railing.

OP, try some Relocation Brackets. If you get an UCA and springs that would probably work too, but bracket are only $100-$200, and you already have the LCA to go with them.
 

TrackpackGT

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I'm already planning on springs as I can't stand the brake dive and do like a slightly lower look. I'll probably do reloc brackets and the UCA as well. And yes, they are the J&M lcas. I don't even bother trying WOT in 1st or 2nd anymore.
 

KILRSVT

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Relocation brackets were the biggest rear end improvement for me . I get very little wheel hop (get some when the tires are super cold) I have steeda upper control arm stock lower controls arms bmr relocation brackets Eibach r2 shocks 450 rear spring no rear sway bar
 

jp1seattle

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Speak for yourself.....My BMRs helped quite a bit with my wheelhop. After I added springs it's completely gone now.
 

sono

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Tried both the steeda and whiteline with brackets. They both stopped my wheel hop. Added the BMR UCA and no wheel hop along with a more planted rear end feel. Stock gt has pretty soft springs. I added a ford racing fr3 suspension kit with the included tokico's. If I was looking for the best street combo hands down I would choose roush springs and shocks. No brake dive, no wheel hop, and the comfort is baffling. Also it's about the drop your looking for. To bad it is not designed for the gt500 because it kicks ass.
 

gimmie11s

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Speak for yourself.....My BMRs helped quite a bit with my wheelhop. After I added springs it's completely gone now.


Im installing some BMRs, LCA relo brackets, and a panhard bar tonight. My car doesn't wheel hop as it is now because my lowering springs made 90% of it go away.

I just don't trust the flimsy stamped arms will withstand 600+ hp and manual trans drag strip launches.
 

TrackpackGT

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I'll probably put my stockers back on as these things make annoying grunting noises even after I just removed them, greased the bushings sides, and retorqued them. I guess if I had real hp, I might see a need for them. Looking forward to shocks/springs/brackets/aphb soon.
I hadn't heard much about the Steeda shocks vs SRT Konis. I've just heard the Koni yellows are the shizzle, but mine is a daily driver and I hope they aren't ill-suited for that.
All I know is, these LCA's aren't that much different than anyone else's and mine still wheel hops like a freak once the tires spin. Maybe it has something to do with cooler weather.
 
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Nuar

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Lowering the car cured the ENTIRE wheel hop I was experiencing. Thank god too, i HATED the damn wheel hop to a point of regreting buying my mustang :/
 

manolith

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Rear control arms will completely eliminate wheel hop. I don't care what anyone says.
 

PapaSmurf03

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OP i think you should seriously message Kelly with BMR and het his input. He wont steer you wrong and he wont try and sell you something you dont need. If you DD your car i would suggest getting a set of BMR springs, BMR LCA's, and BMR Relo Brackets, BMR adjustable panhard bar. All of which with poly bushings. I have all those and no wheel hop and noticed a major improvement in my traction and handling of the car. Also the BMR stuff comes with proper grease fittings so you can grease them while they are on the car. Good luck
 

robbyrobs

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They don't do anything for wheel hop. I don't care what anyone says, mine does the exact same wheel hopping it did before I installed them. It seems the upper control arm and/or lowering springs seems to take care of it. The only thing I've noticed from my new LCA's is noise. I greased them on the outside of the bushing, but I guess I should have filled them when assembling them. I may have to get some grease fittings installed. I guess these might make a difference in an all out racing situation, but for a daily driver, I noticed no difference.
I thought I should post what I feel is accurate info as I watched several videos claiming these reduce or eliminate wheel hop. I even get it in 2nd gear. I've also heard the crappy oem shocks don't help. My next mods are most likely Koni sports and either Ford Racing P springs or Steeda Sports. I only want about a 1" drop as this is my daily and our roads pretty much suck and I have a short, steep driveway.


your doing just about the same drop I am, although I'm using the BBR "ford racing springs P not P" springs along with the FRPP dynamic shock/struts, adjustable panhard bar, and I'm going to do the BMR relocation brackets. I should be installing everything them in a few weeks.

I did talk to Kelly at BMR about doing control ams in the future and this is what he told me

UTCA032
UCM002
CAB005
TCA032

Very good bang for the buck, and will help tremendously.
Set the UCA in the upper hole, and the LCA in the middle postion.
The Elastomer bushings are not available yet, but I highly recommend going with the TCA032 and then swapping to the new bushings when they are available.
 

BMR Tech

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I would like to provide some quick input/info.

All LCA are not the same, nor created equal.

The "grunt" you hearing, is due to the LCA not having grease fittings. I was under the impression everyone finally hopped on that wagon, but I guess not? We learned many years ago, grease fittings are a must on a Poly Bushed Pivot point.

The performance of the LCA, are not all the same. There are several factors, but the primary one is the bushing design. Our Poly LCA feature 95 Durometer bushings. To my knowledge, they are stiffer than the rest. I think most companies who use Energy Suspension bushings, use 83-85 Durometer pieces.. We design all of our bushings for our components.....not just use an "off the shelf" bushing. In doing so, you can also imagine - we test bushings: ours and others.

The stiffer the bushing....the better it fights off wheel-hop. We have thousands of customers, GM and Ford, who have been able to eliminate wheel hop with only and LCA upgrade. Of course, it is not guaranteed...some people have to further modify.

I recommend a good set of shocks, a new set of LCA with grease fittings, and completing the control arm upgrades with a new UCA/Mount.

Good luck!
 
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TrackpackGT

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I guess it takes a little trial and error before you realize what works. Sometimes you don't know who to believe even after much research. The J&M's sold me on the spherical designed center portion of the bushings that allow for rolling or twisting movement of the LCA. Kelly, I really appreciate your input.
 

BMR Tech

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^ I like their design.

But, it has it's downfalls.

In order for that design to work as advertised, the outer portions of the bushings (the two bushings) have to be soft, to allow for articulation.

Since that is the case, the performance (straight line, rear axle stability) is sacrificed.

I have a customer who was recently having some issues with a design like that, and he swapped to our LCA...and he said it was a night and day difference in the wheel hop and stability department.
 

TrackpackGT

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That totally makes sense when you actually think about it. It's weird how a friend of mine used these exact same ones on his 11 GT a couple years back and had no noises.
 

Gear Poet

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The performance of the LCA, are not all the same. There are several factors, but the primary one is the bushing design. Our Poly LCA feature 95 Durometer bushings. To my knowledge, they are stiffer than the rest. I think most companies who use Energy Suspension bushings, use 83-85 Durometer pieces.. We design all of our bushings for our components.....not just use an "off the shelf" bushing. In doing so, you can also imagine - we test bushings: ours and others.

The stiffer the bushing....the better it fights off wheel-hop.

This.

Worth noting that the perf pack LCA's are stamped steel identical to OEM, but have higher durometer bushings -- and while wheel hop is not completely eliminated, it's a substantial improvement. In my case, the car came with perf pack LCA's, and changing to Boss 302 springs (higher rate, small drop) solved the problem.
 

TrackpackGT

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Mine is a track pack car, not sure if they're different LCA's or not, I thought I read that they were GT500's.
 

Rct851

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All anybody needs to know is the red bmr Lca's and relo brackets look sweet as **** through the wheels. And after pulling your stockers out it because apparent they are trash
 

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