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The Terminator
Engine/Tuning
Low Oil Level Sensor
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<blockquote data-quote="SlowSVT" data-source="post: 15353656" data-attributes="member: 20202"><p>I think the sensor is tied into the ECU in the Fox bodied cars and conduct a “lamp test” on start-up to confirm it's working.</p><p></p><p>Remember it’s reading the volume of oil in the pan not the engine. If you only have 4 quarts before you start it you will only have 2-3 when it’s started once the engine is flooded with oil. It will start to “flicker” on and off as you approach the low level set point as the oil sloshes away from the sensor. That’s where this thing will shine <img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite1" alt=":)" title="Smile :)" loading="lazy" data-shortname=":)" /> I figure this system will trigger under the following scenarios: a) the owner is so absent minded and never checks the oil and prefers the sensor to do it for him b) there is a loss of oil while it’s being driven and c) your spinning the engine so hard all the oil is “upstairs” in the engine leaving only a puddle in the pan and the pick-up gasping like what happened to my friend Doug Robinson. Your right about the volume of oil trapped in the head. I imagine both cylinder head banks can hold a lot of oil. I opened-up the drain back holes in the heads and chamfered them, smoothed the sharp edges in the block and installed bypass tubes in the windage tray to make sure the oil drains under the tray and not on top of it and back onto the spinning crankshaft.</p><p></p><p>I would imagine the float switch makes contact once it’s high & dry. I’m not sure what the contact arraignment in the switch is. It’s a thin phenolic tube that flops around in the housing and it sounds like there is a steel ball inside when you shake it. I’ll put a meter to it and test it in the Canton pan and see how it trips in water as you suggested. I don't want this to trigger too early either that could get annoying.</p><p></p><p>I don’t think too many guys are going to run out and install this in their Cobra but for someone in the middle of a rebuild may want to consider this. I'm getting a M20 x 1.5 tap and will be able to make weld bungs for anyone who wants one in either steel or aluminum which I can do for $20.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="SlowSVT, post: 15353656, member: 20202"] I think the sensor is tied into the ECU in the Fox bodied cars and conduct a “lamp test” on start-up to confirm it's working. Remember it’s reading the volume of oil in the pan not the engine. If you only have 4 quarts before you start it you will only have 2-3 when it’s started once the engine is flooded with oil. It will start to “flicker” on and off as you approach the low level set point as the oil sloshes away from the sensor. That’s where this thing will shine :) I figure this system will trigger under the following scenarios: a) the owner is so absent minded and never checks the oil and prefers the sensor to do it for him b) there is a loss of oil while it’s being driven and c) your spinning the engine so hard all the oil is “upstairs” in the engine leaving only a puddle in the pan and the pick-up gasping like what happened to my friend Doug Robinson. Your right about the volume of oil trapped in the head. I imagine both cylinder head banks can hold a lot of oil. I opened-up the drain back holes in the heads and chamfered them, smoothed the sharp edges in the block and installed bypass tubes in the windage tray to make sure the oil drains under the tray and not on top of it and back onto the spinning crankshaft. I would imagine the float switch makes contact once it’s high & dry. I’m not sure what the contact arraignment in the switch is. It’s a thin phenolic tube that flops around in the housing and it sounds like there is a steel ball inside when you shake it. I’ll put a meter to it and test it in the Canton pan and see how it trips in water as you suggested. I don't want this to trigger too early either that could get annoying. I don’t think too many guys are going to run out and install this in their Cobra but for someone in the middle of a rebuild may want to consider this. I'm getting a M20 x 1.5 tap and will be able to make weld bungs for anyone who wants one in either steel or aluminum which I can do for $20. [/QUOTE]
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