Loss of power car stumbling

[Frankycheechoo]

Hi guys today I filled up my cobra usual 94 and I added some octane boost I only use it once or twice a year .
Went on the highway didn’t go nuts Cus of traffic drove for awhile headed home and the car started loosing power and stumbled some miss firing I pulled over checked it out the battery voltage dropped to 13 it was always around 13.9-14.2.
Then I unplugged my aeroforce gage and plugged in the sct tuner went through showed voltage was a little lower 12.9 I checked for some codes it only showed p1000 . Sat around for abit deciding on f I should a tow truck I took a have and drove home very slow but made it .
What can be causing this ? I hope it has nothing to do with the octane boost Vp racing but I’m praying it’s just battery /alternator or a lose dirty sensor .
What should i start with first ? I plugged a charger up to it and will check again later . Some help plz


Sent from my iPhone using the svtperformance.com mobile app

 

[cobracide]

Did you disconnect the battery? Is the service light on? P1000 is an incomplete odbII drive cycle. Are the more codes? Has the car sat a while or is it used frequently?

 

[Weather Man]

Battery plus or the like could load test your battery, how old is the battery?

 

[MG0h3]

It’s 12.9v while running? If so, yes that’s a problem. I wouldn’t expect that to necessarily have it missing though.

I’ve never used octane booster so not sure if those could fool the O2 sensors into trimming your fuel one way or the other.

Maybe you have two issues going on? Typically if you do something and then there’s a problem, I look at what was just done (octane booster).

Looks like p1000 is emissions readiness.

Who knows maybe the blower belt came off?


Sent from my iPhone using svtperformance.com

 

[hotcobra03]

Fuel filter,if car sits alot

Vacuum hose off,
Air inlet tube loose at throttle body,

Moisture in spark plug wells

 

[cobracide]

i'd start with the easy one - battery check. As Weather Man was suggesting. And then maybe verify the charging system if the battery is ok but just discharged.

 

[Frankycheechoo]

Battery is 4 years old , car doesn’t sit a lot drive it once or twice a week this was the second time this week . No warning lights on and no I didn’t disconnect the battery . It was disconnected a few weeks ago I guess when I Had the heat exchanger installed and some general maintenance.


Sent from my iPhone using svtperformance.com

 

[cobracide]

I let my car sit, sometimes a week at a time, I started getting low battery readings in the high 12v range so I put it on a battery tender. Went to my parents to visit and forgot the battery tender, A week later I left and started fine but it was night. Had the radio, lights, ac all going and the car started to stumble and wanted to stall. I think I was at 12,5v or lower so I pulled over and turned all the lights and stereo off. Long story short - I saved it from stalling and rev'd the engine enough to get it charged and going. Now my car sits on a battery tender all the time.

Lightning blew out my old battery tender, got this new one from Optima. An amazing piece of hardware. Digital 400

I use it on my Optima Red Top and has modes for Yellow Top, Standard Car/Marine Battery and motorcycle. Very intelligent device with an informative display that analyzes and deep conditions.

 

[Bdubbs]

I'd look at the alternator.

Sent from my Moto E (4) Plus using Tapatalk

 

[Frankycheechoo]

Charged the battery started it this morning it was at 13.9.-14 pulled the battery cable while it was running it didn’t die so the alternator I guess is ok . Checked plugs they were normal a little pink from the booster , changed them anyways put a new battery in and the voltage is at low 13s it’s drivable not like the other day but still stumbles abit … wtf how can the voltage be lower with a new battery ? Still have a p1000 code is the alternator on its way out ??


Sent from my iPhone using svtperformance.com

 

[MG0h3]

First of all, go buy a multimeter. It doesn’t have to be anything fancy.

It seems pretty clear that you aren’t charging the battery but may actually have an operating alternator.

Bad connection between fuse block lug and battery maybe.


Sent from my iPhone using svtperformance.com

 

[Frankycheechoo]

Just went for a drive it was on but as soon as I got home it started bucking the. Went to normal i turned on ac it dropped to low 12s


Sent from my iPhone using svtperformance.com

 

[MG0h3]

What was “on”?

Hopefully your drive was to buy a multimeter.


Sent from my iPhone using svtperformance.com

 

[hotcobra03]

Another area over looked

Ground from battery to radiator support,,

This Ground is for the car ,will cause strange issues

It burns up inside of casing where you can't see.

See 3 wire upgrade,,

I only did this wire. Made a major difference with getting full voltage to items

 

[JaCobro]

P1000 is a permanent code and won’t clear till the ECU cycles through all the I/M readiness monitors.

Alternator could be on its way out. Sometimes it won’t show till at operating temp. Go to auto parts store and get it tested.

Edit: ECU shows P1000 when it loses keep alive voltage. Which makes me think it’s a voltage issue. Could be a bad ground also. But get alternator tested when voltage is showing low.

 

[Frankycheechoo]

What was “on”?

Hopefully your drive was to buy a multimeter.


Sent from my iPhone using svtperformance.com

Ok*


Sent from my iPhone using the svtperformance.com mobile app