Line Lock

Black Chip

Well-Known Member
Established Member
Joined
Apr 22, 2003
Messages
1,040
Location
Formally DelCo
Just finished installing my SLP Line Lock the other day. Sort of a PITA!
Or should I say a pain in the hands. No fat dude is doing this install. LOL
I had to bend a wrench or two to make it a little easier! Here is a pic of my spot for the switch. I fig. it was better than the console as recommended because I can always replace the coin holder for cheap. Gonna re-do one 'cause I didn't have the Dremel bit I wanted to use. (Make it neater)
But I got it on and working for the event I was going to.
BTW it works VERY well!! :burnout:

P1010571.jpg
 
Last edited:

toms03cobra

Member
Established Member
Joined
Dec 31, 2009
Messages
149
Location
ohio
looks good i putt my switch in the same place but i used a fog light switch from a 95 mustang fits right in and looks stock.
 

jbentley

New Member
Established Member
Joined
Jun 7, 2007
Messages
215
Location
Manhattan
i was wondering were i could istall mine now i know and a fog light switch huh i bet that looks good you got pics
 

Roushbabe

It's Mine :)
Established Member
Joined
Apr 10, 2008
Messages
250
Location
Florida
I'm considering doing this myself soon. How long did it take you? I've had the line lock just sitting in the garage collecting dust because I haven't had the need to get it done. With cold weather coming in soon I'll be heading to the track more often. Any advice on what not to do? lol
 

Black Chip

Well-Known Member
Established Member
Joined
Apr 22, 2003
Messages
1,040
Location
Formally DelCo
looks good from what i can see. can you take an up close pic?
Pretty close I thought?? I just shaved the ribs back with a dremel bit. (I think the pointed stone bit would work better) Then drilled the 1/2" hole through it. I would look into the fog light switch idea (mentioned above) if it fits.
 

Black Chip

Well-Known Member
Established Member
Joined
Apr 22, 2003
Messages
1,040
Location
Formally DelCo
I'm considering doing this myself soon. How long did it take you? I've had the line lock just sitting in the garage collecting dust because I haven't had the need to get it done. With cold weather coming in soon I'll be heading to the track more often. Any advice on what not to do? lol
Was going to do this but didn't have time yesterday.
Here goes... Unfortunately it took me about 8hrs.!! But I think I could cut that in half next time. Maybe this will help you.
Definitely print the instructions off of SLP site. The ones I got with the kit were unreadable. The sensor connection to the fluid resevoir was a pain. You need to get a small scewdriver in there to release the tab. The factory fittings are 13mm. I didn't cut a wrench like they said. I didn't need a line wrench. Remove the coil cover for a "little" more room. I took the line towards the front of the car off at the master cyninder. The other line I took off at the proportioning valve (with a longer reach 13mm wrench) and after removing the master cylinder from the car I removed it from the cylinder. *Take the sensor off of the resevoir. There are two small tabs to squeeze so you can remove it. Your hands will have a little more room on the install*!! When mounting the solenoid you don't need to remove the fender liner! Just the wheel. I did measure from an existing hole like the instructions say. But make sure to drill a small pilot close to mounting spot then you can measure very accurate from there. *The fender seam must overlap it's not the same when viewed from the wheel well as it is from engine side*. I had to "re-work" the bracket a little. Used teflon paste where they said and put some brake fluid on the threads they said not to use teflon on. I just made the long tube sort of match the picture (leaning a little in relation to the solenoid) when I tightened it up on the bench. It worked out. I would recommend to then mount the solenoid and re install the master cylinder. You may get lucky and catch the threads on the brake lines. I spent 2 HRS!! trying!! The factory one is easy the L. Lock tube wasn't too exact. You DON'T want to strip the master cylinder!!!! Solution: Make sure you have the long line very close (bend a little if you have to). Take everything back out. Thread the long line into the master cylinder but don't tighten (so it will still swivel). I was able to re-install with the solenoid attached. Catch factory line loosely when sliding m. cylinder in. Then connect the short line to proportioning valve. Tighten mounting bolts. Tighten long line into master cylinder. THIS IS WHERE I HEATED AND BENT A 10MM WRENCH TO A PERFECT ANGLE TO MAKE IT WORK. Think SLP said 3/8" but 10mm works. They're real close.
I think a long reach 10mm would help to tighten the short line to the proportioning valve. I also tried a 10mm crows foot but it didn't help much. Tighten 13mm factory nut.
I didn't see the spot they said to fish the wire through. There is a big rubber grommet on the drivers side near hood hinge. Be sure to locate this under the dash. Using this as a reference I drilled a 1/4" hole next to it. (Had to use a stubby drill). I cut the switch wire so I could use the smallest grommet I had. I then soldered it back together in the car. Be sure to use a rubber grommet! Route the wire, use ty wraps and keep it away from clutch, steering column etc.
Bleed the brakes. I had to bleed at the master cylinder too.
***Tip of the day*** I "invented" a way to bleed the brakes solo.
All you need is a tool box on the pedal and a power seat to move back and forth you can take it from there HA! HA! Much better and faster to have a partner helping! But I wanted to get it done and it worked!
Watch the drips, use a fender cover and be patient. Hope this helps. Go for it!
HAPPY BURNOUTS!!:burnout: YOUR REAR BRAKES WILL THANK YOU!!:beer:
 
Last edited:

Roushbabe

It's Mine :)
Established Member
Joined
Apr 10, 2008
Messages
250
Location
Florida
Was going to do this but didn't have time yesterday.
Here goes... Unfortunately it took me about 8hrs.!! But I think I could cut that in half next time. Maybe this will help you.
Definitely print the instructions off of SLP site. The ones I got with the kit were unreadable. The sensor connection to the fluid resevoir was a pain. You need to get a small scewdriver in there to release the tab. The factory fittings are 13mm. I didn't cut a wrench like they said. I didn't need a line wrench. Remove the coil cover for a "little" more room. I took the line towards the front of the car off at the master cyninder. The other line I took off at the proportioning valve (with a longer reach 13mm wrench) and after removing the master cylinder from the car I removed it from the cylinder. *Take the sensor off of the resevoir. There are two small tabs to squeeze so you can remove it. Your hands will have a little more room on the install*!! When mounting the solenoid you don't need to remove the fender liner! Just the wheel. I did measure from an existing hole like the instructions say. But make sure to drill a small pilot close to mounting spot then you can measure very accurate from there. *The fender seam must overlap it's not the same when viewed from the wheel well as it is from engine side*. I had to "re-work" the bracket a little. Used teflon paste where they said and put some brake fluid on the threads they said not to use teflon on. I just made the long tube sort of match the picture (leaning a little in relation to the solenoid) when I tightened it up on the bench. It worked out. I would recommend to then mount the solenoid and re install the master cylinder. You may get lucky and catch the threads on the brake lines. I spent 2 HRS!! trying!! The factory one is easy the L. Lock tube wasn't too exact. You DON'T want to strip the master cylinder!!!! Solution: Make sure you have the long line very close (bend a little if you have to). Take everything back out. Thread the long line into the master cylinder but don't tighten (so it will still swivel). I was able to re-install with the solenoid attached. Catch factory line loosely when sliding m. cylinder in. Then connect the short line to proportioning valve. Tighten mounting bolts. Tighten long line into master cylinder. THIS IS WHERE I HEATED AND BENT A 10MM WRENCH TO A PERFECT ANGLE TO MAKE IT WORK. Think SLP said 3/8" but 10mm works. They're real close.
I think a long reach 10mm would help to tighten the short line to the proportioning valve. I also tried a 10mm crows foot but it didn't help much. Tighten 13mm factory nut.
I didn't see the spot they said to fish the wire through. There is a big rubber grommet on the drivers side near hood hinge. Be sure to locate this under the dash. Using this as a reference I drilled a 1/4" hole next to it. (Had to use a stubby drill). I cut the switch wire so I could use the smallest grommet I had. I then soldered it back together in the car. Be sure to use a rubber grommet! Route the wire, use ty wraps and keep it away from clutch, steering column etc.
Bleed the brakes. I had to bleed at the master cylinder too.
***Tip of the day*** I "invented" a way to bleed the brakes solo.
All you need is a tool box on the pedal and a power seat to move back and forth you can take it from there HA! HA! Much better and faster to have a partner helping! But I wanted to get it done and it worked!
Watch the drips, use a fender cover and be patient. Hope this helps. Go for it!
HAPPY BURNOUTS!!:burnout: YOUR REAR BRAKES WILL THANK YOU!!:beer:
Thanks for taking the time to share your experience! I'll give it a try here soon because I know it'll definitley save my rear brakes at the track. Maybe I'll take some pictures and post up a how-to thread for other members considering to do this themselves.
 

Black Chip

Well-Known Member
Established Member
Joined
Apr 22, 2003
Messages
1,040
Location
Formally DelCo
Thanks for taking the time to share your experience! I'll give it a try here soon because I know it'll definitley save my rear brakes at the track. Maybe I'll take some pictures and post up a how-to thread for other members considering to do this themselves.
No problem good luck!
 

Users who are viewing this thread



Top