Lifter/rocker noise...

mustangc

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Stop running that oil, run 5W50 oil and only Ford oil filters, you will damage your cylinder head/engine I promise
This is what happened to my 08 GT500 from running AMSOIL 10W40 and AMSOIL filters...I'm not knocking AMSOIL at all, but are engines don't like 10W40 oil

Wow. Someone questions using the wrong weight oil, Amsoil no less, and it's been nearly 24 hours without someone absolutely lambasting him about it? I don't believe it. Is this forum getting soft?
 

USV8PWR

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I went back to fresh motorcraft oil yesterday, its pretty quiet now. I will monitor it.

Great news Devious! Still, you should have it looked at by a Ford dealer.

Wow. Someone questions using the wrong weight oil, Amsoil no less, and it's been nearly 24 hours without someone absolutely lambasting him about it? I don't believe it. Is this forum getting soft?

Yeah I know! But I tell you what, you could see this coming a mile away. There is a reason Ford specifies 5W50 in this engine. While I might use a different brand, I won't change weights.
 

cidsamuth

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Monitoring this out of sheer curiousity. It is hard to believe that the small difference between 10w-40 and 5w-50 could cause damage or noise in the short run -- even if it could be argued that longevity would change. It sure would be awesome for the OP, though, if it was that simple.

Heck, doesn't 5w-50 break down to something close to 40 weight after a few thousand miles anyway?
 

rdrkt

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Wow. Someone questions using the wrong weight oil, Amsoil no less, and it's been nearly 24 hours without someone absolutely lambasting him about it? I don't believe it. Is this forum getting soft?
Doing your own research you can find the threads showing the testing on how Amsoil starts better and remains substantially better over the course of the change interval. I think it was just the easiest thing for the Ford tech who doesn't know any better either to blame.

EDIT Found the link
http://www.svtperformance.com/forum...sider-when-oil-change-topic-happens-here.html
 
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UnleashedBeast

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Monitoring this out of sheer curiousity. It is hard to believe that the small difference between 10w-40 and 5w-50 could cause damage or noise in the short run -- even if it could be argued that longevity would change. It sure would be awesome for the OP, though, if it was that simple.

Heck, doesn't 5w-50 break down to something close to 40 weight after a few thousand miles anyway?

Correct you are. It's not the oil, period.

Motorcraft shears down to a heavy 30 grade / light 40 grade lubricant with normal use in as little as 1,500 miles. I've seen oil samples with sheared viscosity in the 12.x to 13.x cSt range, consistently. Virgin, it's about 20 cSt.

Amsoil AMO 10W-40 maintains a 14.x viscosity thoughout most of the interval. It's also less viscous at cold engine start up at all temps between 32*F and 100*F, despite having a "10W" in front of it.

OP, you should have changed the oil filter only....not oil and filter. Then, if the noise went away, it could be blamed on the filter, and Amsoil would warranty it.

Changing both the filter and the oil at the same time, resulting in a quieter engine isn't conclusive to lubricant choice.

Yeah I know! But I tell you what, you could see this coming a mile away. There is a reason Ford specifies 5W50 in this engine. While I might use a different brand, I won't change weights.

I'm afraid your conclusion and thoughts are all wrong, please read above. It could have been a faulty oil filter, could have been a mechanical failure which would have happened no matter lubricant filter choice. Correlation does not imply causation.
 
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UnleashedBeast

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Stop running that oil, run 5W50 oil and only Ford oil filters, you will damage your cylinder head/engine I promise
This is what happened to my 08 GT500 from running AMSOIL 10W40 and AMSOIL filters, read the hole thread
http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/svt-shelby-gt500-150/967902-piston-slap-ticking-knocking.html
I'm not knocking AMSOIL at all, but are engines don't like 10W40 oil

I would not recommend it, A friend of mine is Ford tech and verified that the cylinder head was damaged if you read the hole thread I documented everything I did to try and fix it. He was almost 95 percent sure that the wrong weight oil caused the damage. There is a TSB about it.
But you guys can do whatever you want, AMSOIL makes awesome stuff, and I'm not knocking them in anyway, I just wouldn't run 10W40 in are engines

Nothing in your thread is conclusive to oil weight or filter, yet you are starting a panic event. Hard to believe that something can just mechanically fail.

Seems legit!

Let's start a witch hunt for Royal Purple oil filters as well. They both come off the same assembly line, the only difference is color & sticker.
 
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Robot_trainer

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I hope this isnt true. I just spent a bunch of money on Amsoil lubricants including 10w40.

Oil is the last thing I would put the blame on unless you are running cooking oil. Here a few stories that I have to share throughout my years in this crazy hobby:

With respect to techs:

I owned a 2000 GMC Sierra new. After about 28000km, I notices some rust marks on the front bumper just under the plastic trim. I took it into the dealer to have him assess what was going on. The techs answer was that I was not getting enough wax on the bumper in that area. I asked him since when does chrome rust? Needless to say I was done with them

With respect to oil:

I've been involved with racing and race shops for years. A fellow had a really nice 58 Corvette drag car that was running a stroked alcohol injected small block. He lost a bunch of bearings and because he recently changed oil types (both viscosity and brands) he blamed it on the oil. Turns out alcohol was seeping into the oil pan. It was tough to figure out because once the engine got hot, the alcohol would flash off.

Strange engine noises:

Happened to my 472 Chrysler hemi. Developed what sounded like a lifter problem. Replaced all of the lifters and adjusted the preload several times. It keep coming and going, worse when it got warm. I finally pulled the engine and ran it on a dyno for hours. We pin pointed it to a bank but never could figure out which one was the problem. Replaced the entire cam with a roller. ran it on the dyno the following spring. After a couple of warm up runs and re-adjusting the valve train we fired it back up and it was running on 4 cylinders. Long story short.....valve seat fell out of the head! That was the noise all along. When the engine got hot, the seat would loosen. When it cooled it tightened back up so you could tell even with the head off.

You can pretty much run any viscosity you want as long as it maintains the correct oil pressure when it gets hot at idle and under load. You want to make sure that oil is getting to the top end at idle hot and there is enough hydrostatic pressure to keep the the crank and rod bearing away from the journals at high rpm/loads. The SAE number is really just a range. The centistoke number is what really tells what's going on. Since the 5W50 Motorcraft shears down to what the Amsoil 10W40 starts and stays at, I think you would be OK with that oil. And since the 10W40 flows better in the cold, its an added bonus.

Bad filters on the other hand, can wreak all kinds of havoc. Not to say that any oil filter can't fail (it's an imperfect world), there are some that have a nasty reputation.
 

UnleashedBeast

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Oil is the last thing I would put the blame on unless you are running cooking oil.

You can pretty much run any viscosity you want as long as it maintains the correct oil pressure when it gets hot at idle and under load. You want to make sure that oil is getting to the top end at idle hot and there is enough hydrostatic pressure to keep the the crank and rod bearing away from the journals at high rpm/loads. The SAE number is really just a range. The centistoke number is what really tells what's going on. Since the 5W50 Motorcraft shears down to what the Amsoil 10W40 starts and stays at, I think you would be OK with that oil. And since the 10W40 flows better in the cold, its an added bonus.

You preach truth car brethren. Thank you for sharing. :beer:

Bad filters on the other hand, can wreak all kinds of havoc. Not to say that any oil filter can't fail (it's an imperfect world), there are some that have a nasty reputation.

Cheap Fram filters! :eek:

Have a friend that buys Mustangs, Camaros, Trans Am.....either parting or reselling them. He bought a 2001 WS6 Trans Am for $3,xxx.00 bucks because it was knocking. Brought it home expecting to part it out for other mods, saw the cheap Fram filter on the car. All he did was replace it with a better filter, top of the oil, and fired up the car. Engine was silent and ran perfect. He sold that car for $10,xxx.00

What a profit, thanks to a cheap oil filter.
 
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