Life after the "Terminator"
- Thread starter jbrown1238
- Start date
While I was collecting everything I needed to wash the block I decided to paint my 25 year old engine stand. I carefully disassembled it and washed all of the bolts and hardware just as an added sense of security. I wanted to have a clean work station and make sure everything close to the block was as clean as possible. Before I reassembled it I shot two fresh coats of Dark Shadow Grey followed by two coats of clear. After a week of drying time the engine stand has been fully assembled and is ready to go. Speaking of ready, the block is going for a swim!
I used an entire bottle of Dawn dish soap and went to town with a couple clean rags, a handful of engine brushes and a regular scrub brush. After going around the block three times, carefully cleaning every hole/passageway and rinsing well between cycles, the block is ready to come out of the water.
After hanging it on the engine stand I quickly hit it with compressed air and then the spray lubricant to make sure no water sat for any length of time. The lubricant helped dissipate the water and stop any rust from forming. I then wiped the entire block down with several clean rags and hit it again with more compressed air and spray lubricant. Then wiped it down again to make sure everything was dry of water, clean, and well sealed with oil.
Once confident that the main surfaces were wiped clean I went ahead and used a gun cleaning kit to get into all of the oil passages and recesses I wasn’t able to reach by hand. I started with a clean cloth made a few passes and then switched to one wet with oil.
I used an entire bottle of Dawn dish soap and went to town with a couple clean rags, a handful of engine brushes and a regular scrub brush. After going around the block three times, carefully cleaning every hole/passageway and rinsing well between cycles, the block is ready to come out of the water.
After hanging it on the engine stand I quickly hit it with compressed air and then the spray lubricant to make sure no water sat for any length of time. The lubricant helped dissipate the water and stop any rust from forming. I then wiped the entire block down with several clean rags and hit it again with more compressed air and spray lubricant. Then wiped it down again to make sure everything was dry of water, clean, and well sealed with oil.
Once confident that the main surfaces were wiped clean I went ahead and used a gun cleaning kit to get into all of the oil passages and recesses I wasn’t able to reach by hand. I started with a clean cloth made a few passes and then switched to one wet with oil.
After the cleaning process was complete I moved on to installing the pipe plugs, freeze plugs, and dowels. Then one more pass with a clean rag and the block was ready to be sealed until more work can be done later this week.
Even though the block looked very clean before I started today you can still see machining debris in the bottom of the pool where it had settled a few hours after the block was removed.
Even though the block looked very clean before I started today you can still see machining debris in the bottom of the pool where it had settled a few hours after the block was removed.
The camshaft arrived this week and was inspected and added to the parts shelf. It won’t be long now!! Just a few short weeks and the final parts collecting and preparing will be done and assembly will begin.
We had some cold weather today but I still managed to get some engine work done this morning. I cleaned the cam retaining plate and fasteners then test fit it in preparation for installing the camshaft next weekend. Then I wiped down the cylinder bores and test fit the top and second ring (separately) for each cylinder. It looks like each of these rings will need to be file fit. I am going with .018 gap on the second ring and .024 gap on the top ring. I moved the piston rings and tools into the barn yesterday so everything would be measured at the same working temperature today. I am going to wait and double check my gap measurements when it warms up over the next few days before file fitting any of the rings. Measure twice, cut once!!!!
First I placed the ring vertical into the bore and carefully pressed it down in while lightly compressing the sides.
Then I pivoted the ring so it sat horizontal in the bore.
Then carefully squared it in the bore by using a piston and ring as a squaring tool.
Then I measured the ring gap with a feeler gauge on each of the top and second rings. The average gap was between .016 and .018 on the majority of the piston rings.
First I placed the ring vertical into the bore and carefully pressed it down in while lightly compressing the sides.
Then I pivoted the ring so it sat horizontal in the bore.
Then carefully squared it in the bore by using a piston and ring as a squaring tool.
Then I measured the ring gap with a feeler gauge on each of the top and second rings. The average gap was between .016 and .018 on the majority of the piston rings.
Even with a busy work schedule this weekend I did get the camshaft installed. I cut a piece of threaded rod, drilled out a plastic file handle, and then screwed the two together. The new tool made it easy to slip the cam into place without any damage to the bearings. Installing the cam before the rotating assembly made it easy to get an extra pair of hands in the mix to guide the cam through each of the bores.
A week or so ago I determined that the piston ring gap on each of the top and second rings would need to be file fit to spec. Today I had a few hours to tackle this project so I started by clearly marking the top side of each ring to avoid confusion during the process.
I also marked the six o’clock position to use as a reference point to help keep the ring square as the gap is being cut.
I set up two pieces of aluminum angle in a vise with a file placed in the center of the two. The aluminum pieces act as a guide to helped keep the ring squared horizontally as the gap is being cut. I then added some painters tape to the aluminum so the bottom side of the ring would not be scratched. Then I measured the inside diameter of the ring and marked the file so I didn’t go too far on each pass and bang the back side of the ring. Because of the Moly coating each pass should be from the outside of the ring towards the inside. By using this method the Moly coating shouldn’t chip as the ring is pushed along the edge of the file. I was very careful to only file one side of the gap, to keep the ring squared on each pass, and double check the gap alignment by holding it up to the light and compressing the ring so the gap closed on itself. By doing so the file side could be compared to the stock side to make sure the gap was consistent from the inside to the outside. If any light can be seen either on the inside or the outside of the gap the next few passes can be adjusted by moving the mark at the six o’clock position right or left as needed.
Each gap was carefully checked and rechecked as it was brought into spec until the final number was perfect. Then all four sides of the corrected end on each ring were lightly dressed with 400 grit paper to clean any burrs.
I also marked the six o’clock position to use as a reference point to help keep the ring square as the gap is being cut.
I set up two pieces of aluminum angle in a vise with a file placed in the center of the two. The aluminum pieces act as a guide to helped keep the ring squared horizontally as the gap is being cut. I then added some painters tape to the aluminum so the bottom side of the ring would not be scratched. Then I measured the inside diameter of the ring and marked the file so I didn’t go too far on each pass and bang the back side of the ring. Because of the Moly coating each pass should be from the outside of the ring towards the inside. By using this method the Moly coating shouldn’t chip as the ring is pushed along the edge of the file. I was very careful to only file one side of the gap, to keep the ring squared on each pass, and double check the gap alignment by holding it up to the light and compressing the ring so the gap closed on itself. By doing so the file side could be compared to the stock side to make sure the gap was consistent from the inside to the outside. If any light can be seen either on the inside or the outside of the gap the next few passes can be adjusted by moving the mark at the six o’clock position right or left as needed.
Each gap was carefully checked and rechecked as it was brought into spec until the final number was perfect. Then all four sides of the corrected end on each ring were lightly dressed with 400 grit paper to clean any burrs.
The rotating assembly is back from being balanced. Not much new there except I did decide to upgrade to a set of Scat Forged I beam connecting rods in place of the stock Ford connecting rods I originally planned on using.
The pistons were matched to 629.5 grams, +/- .5 grams.
The wrist pins matched out at 143 grams a piece.
The connecting rods were matched to 389.5 grams (rotating end) and 164.5 grams (reciprocating end), +/- .5 grams.
The piston rings came in at 56 grams per set.
The bearing shells came in at 37 grams per rod.
With oil the Bobweight total came out to 1851 grams.
Today I double checked the condition of all parts and took another set of measurements before packaging the pistons, pins and rods up to go back to the machine shop on Monday. The connecting rods will be heated and the wrist pins pushed through the piston and rod completing the assembly process.
The pistons were matched to 629.5 grams, +/- .5 grams.
The wrist pins matched out at 143 grams a piece.
The connecting rods were matched to 389.5 grams (rotating end) and 164.5 grams (reciprocating end), +/- .5 grams.
The piston rings came in at 56 grams per set.
The bearing shells came in at 37 grams per rod.
With oil the Bobweight total came out to 1851 grams.
Today I double checked the condition of all parts and took another set of measurements before packaging the pistons, pins and rods up to go back to the machine shop on Monday. The connecting rods will be heated and the wrist pins pushed through the piston and rod completing the assembly process.
After dropping the pistons and connecting rods off at the machine shop I went ahead and continued running the wiring harness through the engine compartment and attaching several misc items/pieces to the firewall, core support, and inner fenders. If all goes well I should be ready to install the frame this weekend.
Note: The fender fasteners at this point have not been color matched. They will still be removed/installed multiple times as the fenders are removed/installed as needed to allow access to the engine bay without leaning over the new paint.
Note: The fasteners on the core support and inner fender well have all been painted including the green ground bolt. These should not need to be removed going forward.
I found a source for a few misc. pieces I need and will be going to collect those from a parts truck on Tuesday.
Clutch/brake pedals.
Steering wheel and column trim for manual trans application.
Shifter and boot.
Assorted fasteners and clips for multiple locations around the vehicle
Etc.
Note: The fender fasteners at this point have not been color matched. They will still be removed/installed multiple times as the fenders are removed/installed as needed to allow access to the engine bay without leaning over the new paint.
Note: The fasteners on the core support and inner fender well have all been painted including the green ground bolt. These should not need to be removed going forward.
I found a source for a few misc. pieces I need and will be going to collect those from a parts truck on Tuesday.
Clutch/brake pedals.
Steering wheel and column trim for manual trans application.
Shifter and boot.
Assorted fasteners and clips for multiple locations around the vehicle
Etc.
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I took yesterday off after work and ended up taking a late afternoon nap. I tried to make up for lost time today and picked up the pistons/rods from the machine shop. They did a nice job, got everything centered and oriented properly. I was impressed with the quality and look forward to dropping these into by block very soon.
Once I got home I decided to go ahead and set the frame under the truck to get an idea of what it is going to look like. I was planning on installing it this weekend but changed my mind and now intend to get it bolted into place tomorrow. I wanted to install the brake booster and clutch/brake pedals first but the deal fell through on the salvage pedals and the brake master cylinder needs to be replaced (the old one is “dirty”). So it will be a little longer before those pieces are secured.
Once I got home I decided to go ahead and set the frame under the truck to get an idea of what it is going to look like. I was planning on installing it this weekend but changed my mind and now intend to get it bolted into place tomorrow. I wanted to install the brake booster and clutch/brake pedals first but the deal fell through on the salvage pedals and the brake master cylinder needs to be replaced (the old one is “dirty”). So it will be a little longer before those pieces are secured.
When I got home today the sun was hitting the Tuxedo Black Metallic at just the right angle to cast my favorite shade of the color. I could not help but share it with everyone here.
Well enough of that! Let’s get back to work.
I double checked my frame/body alignment and made sure everything was centered by dropping wooden dowels through the floor pan and body mounts.
Once I was comfortable I went ahead and dropped the bolts through the body and started drawing the frame up little by little until it was secured in place by all six body mounts and fasteners.
Well enough of that! Let’s get back to work.
I double checked my frame/body alignment and made sure everything was centered by dropping wooden dowels through the floor pan and body mounts.
Once I was comfortable I went ahead and dropped the bolts through the body and started drawing the frame up little by little until it was secured in place by all six body mounts and fasteners.
Love this build! I have owned multiple Rangers and have daily driven one for the the last 16 years. I've seen this kind of thread many times on the Ranger sites that I go to, but your build blows all of them away.
That said, I would love to have a V8 Ranger one day, can't wait to see it done.:beer:
That said, I would love to have a V8 Ranger one day, can't wait to see it done.:beer:
Thank you, I hope it starts! This is my first engine build.
Where did you learn to build a motor at? Very specific and thorough!
+1 on the build quality, I love cars that have been meticulously put together with no centimeter untouched much more than the popular show cars that are just slapped together with a little glaze. Your workmanship certainly shows sir!
I talked to a few people in the field, read a lot of info online, and watched youtube videos.
Amazing patience and attention to detail. Strong work!
Stop talking! Moar pics! NOWS!
Incredible thread OP. Nice work.
Holy shit this is a bad ass build. Totally sub'n for the rest. Since I have been here I have never subscribed to a thread before. I can't believe all the work that is going into this. I wish I had half of the patience and passion that you do. Awesome ****ing job!!!!
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