lets talk spray bore vs sleeved blocks

44shelby

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At what power level if any at all does the spray bore become an issue. 900? 1000? 1100? 1200? Id like to hear some concrete information backed up with some data here. I don't care about the rods or pistons ect. Lets just talk about the spray bore and sleeves
 

Klaus

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Darton wet mids here.

It is not the power level that determines the need for sleeving.
 

SteveWK

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THis is a good topic, wtg OP. :) I have nothing to add really other than if I was going to have my engine rebuilt I would definitely get slesves just so I could over bore it in the future and maybe it would be stronger.
 

Weather Man

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It is all about cylinder pressure management. Whenever you see these crazy Coyote or GT500 pump gas dyno charts, they are being extremely careful managing cylinder pressure/RPM. At a certain desired HP level, it becomes impossible for the stock bore to remain stable and sleeves are required. Key thought is that that HP level can vary with the sophistication and ability of your tuner.
 

Klaus

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It is all about cylinder pressure management. Whenever you see these crazy Coyote or GT500 pump gas dyno charts, they are being extremely careful managing cylinder pressure/RPM. At a certain desired HP level, it becomes impossible for the stock bore to remain stable and sleeves are required. Key thought is that that HP level can vary with the sophistication and ability of your tuner.

It is even simpler than this. If you are going to do a piston swap you will want to machine your bore. Since you cannot respray the bore you will need to sleeve it. So if you are looking at pistons you are also looking at sleeving.

If there was a way to respray my bores when I did my build I would have. The stock block is plenty strong. Maybe there is a way to respray but if there is I am not aware.

All in cost including shipping was $5k if you thinking of doing it.
 

Catmonkey

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Check prices for new aluminum blocks. If it's costs $5k to install sleeves, you may find a new block with fresh plasma liner as cheap or cheaper. It's a supply and demand thing. The stock block can take a lot of power. But the liner is thin, so you can't always rely on the liner being there to take a hone for new pistons and/or rings on a used block. If there are any out of round issues on the stock block, sleeves are the only solution to correcting.
 

fearthesnake

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It is even simpler than this. If you are going to do a piston swap you will want to machine your bore. Since you cannot respray the bore you will need to sleeve it. So if you are looking at pistons you are also looking at sleeving.

If there was a way to respray my bores when I did my build I would have. The stock block is plenty strong. Maybe there is a way to respray but if there is I am not aware.

All in cost including shipping was $5k if you thinking of doing it.

That isn't bad imo for a Sleeved blocked I assume that includes new Pistons and machine bore? May as well replace the Rods while at it. This seems like a much better idea (Proactive) than waiting on the engine to grenade if you are running over 800hp.
 

Weather Man

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It is even simpler than this. If you are going to do a piston swap you will want to machine your bore. Since you cannot respray the bore you will need to sleeve it. So if you are looking at pistons you are also looking at sleeving.

If there was a way to respray my bores when I did my build I would have. The stock block is plenty strong. Maybe there is a way to respray but if there is I am not aware.

All in cost including shipping was $5k if you thinking of doing it.

I think plenty of guys inspect the bores and hone if they can get away with it. Depending on power level they are shooting for of course. I was surprised to find that they make hones for for the factory spray in liners. If the bore is damaged, sleeves.
 

biminiLX

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Couple things to clarify here.
First is that the power goal is actually the key factor. From talking to several high end builders, 1200hp is the limit where the stock block and stock crank both start to flex. The solution is sleeving the block and going aftermarket crank.
Second is that the Plasma spray bore is actually really good, with the exception that you can’t reapply after initial use. The PTWA plasma liner is licensed to Nissan who uses the identical process in their hand made GTR engines.
So, don’t fear the plasma and don’t stress the need to sleeve until 1200hp!
-J
 

Klaus

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First is that the power goal is actually the key factor.

Are there guys running sleeves with stock pistons at those power levels?

Your point is valid but redundant since you will need a piston to get to those levels and will need to sleeve to replace the pistons.

I am not being difficult but just saying.....
 

biminiLX

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Are there guys running sleeves with stock pistons at those power levels?

Your point is valid but redundant since you will need a piston to get to those levels and will need to sleeve to replace the pistons.

I am not being difficult but just saying.....
Good question and yes, the ‘13-14 piston is made by Mahle and is basically as good as a Cobra Jet piston proven to 1500+
It’s actually more the ring package (and gap) on the OEM piston that needs to be considered.
I like to look and things as a system or combination and from talking to 3-4 guys who are actually building and racing them, the consistent answers were all about the same 1200hp (and to a lesser degree 7500rpm).
As a system, until you reach for more than 1200hp, you’re safe to rely on the factory PTWA and crank and block and cylinder flow.
Basically I’ve maxed out my current parts and to push it next level, I’ll be sleeving the block, porting the heads, upgrading the crank and rotator and valves, etc
Then you also reevaluate things and if you’ve never been in a 1000rwhp car; maybe be realistic, save yourself close to $10k and recognize the car itself needs major updates for 1200hp.
I’m currently at 1110rwhp SAE and that is stock unsleeved block, stock crank, unported heads with stock valves. Plus the assembly and machining from a shop with a great reputation in proving this combo at the strip the same way I’ll be pushing it hardest.
-J
 

biminiLX

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Same as above link. I actually ordered that exact shortblock so I could start with a new block.
At the time and maybe now, they had built the fastest TVS Cobra Jets in the country.
I have nothing but positive to say about JDM and if I didn’t have Chris Holbrook so close I’d have a JDM Coyote to match my 5.8
Pretty easy to follow my formula:
JDM 5.8 short with ARP and OPG upgrades
Stock heads with JDM SS cams/springs
Then biggest you can get intake and exhaust:
Max ported/welded lower intake, KB Bigun cooler brick (about to be 1” lined VMP core), max ported Gen 3R VMP TVS, huge monoblade (current KB168), huge CAI (currently JLT 155), 2” primary to 3.5” to electric cutouts.
Make it a systems approach and you’ll exceed targets.
-J
 

Cobra Therapy

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Same as above link. I actually ordered that exact shortblock so I could start with a new block.
At the time and maybe now, they had built the fastest TVS Cobra Jets in the country.
I have nothing but positive to say about JDM and if I didn’t have Chris Holbrook so close I’d have a JDM Coyote to match my 5.8
Pretty easy to follow my formula:
JDM 5.8 short with ARP and OPG upgrades
Stock heads with JDM SS cams/springs
Then biggest you can get intake and exhaust:
Max ported/welded lower intake, KB Bigun cooler brick (about to be 1” lined VMP core), max ported Gen 3R VMP TVS, huge monoblade (current KB168), huge CAI (currently JLT 155), 2” primary to 3.5” to electric cutouts.
Make it a systems approach and you’ll exceed targets.
-J
My JDM cams are on the way. I ordered them a couple of weeks ago
 

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