Lets do a poll on my dyno#'s

DaveWertz

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Was the bypass bleeding off pressure?
We think so. The drop in horsepower at around 6100rpm makes that suspect. With torque being so close to HP, also is suspect. We had issues with it in the beginning not closing. We think the diaphragm is hanging up. Its a cheap aluminum housing Chinese made no name bypass. I'm going to probably get the bosch 710n bypass. Same as the 102 but is able to support more boost
 

DaveWertz

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Ok. So since I first posted this we have some upgrades. Prior to these upgrades most of my build is in the first part of this thread. So I went and finally installed a FMIC. And during this process I bugged a pile of you with questions and lots of dumb questions. Im a guy who 2nd guesses allot. Anyhow thank you all!
New upgrades are, 3" CX racing intercooler, VMP5000 slot style maf, tial q50 bov. Last dyno number non intercooled were 430/404 with a 3.12 pulley.

Lets do a new poll and see what you think I will pick up.. I will post pics when I get it all back together. Having the BOV and maf flanges welded on. So final assemble will be next week. Then cleanup.
 

96dreamer

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The biggest upside to intercooling isn't a huge peak power gain but a consistent reliable source of cooler air. You should be able to ad a degree or two more timing but heat soak will no longer be an issue is the biggest gain imo. In fact I would not be surprised if the power level stayed the same or lowered slightly due to the intercooler pressure drop while using the same pulley combo. I would not consider this a net negative however. On a dyno it might look like a loss but on the street your car was likely pulling timing from being heat soaked which should no longer be an issue.
 

DaveWertz

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The biggest upside to intercooling isn't a huge peak power gain but a consistent reliable source of cooler air. You should be able to ad a degree or two more timing but heat soak will no longer be an issue is the biggest gain imo. In fact I would not be surprised if the power level stayed the same or lowered slightly due to the intercooler pressure drop while using the same pulley combo. I would not consider this a net negative however. On a dyno it might look like a loss but on the street your car was likely pulling timing from being heat soaked which should no longer be an issue.
I guess the dyno run will tell all. My goal is to reach that 500whp mark. Now that I am going in the right direction I am unsure what would be next.
 

DaveWertz

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E85 and a pulley down to the next size will do the trick for sure.
I think the nearest E85 station is 30-50 miles from me. Thought about that route but I really do not want to go there just yet. I thought about dropping to a 2.87 pulley and see what happens. Use to be a bunch of them for sale but of course when Im looking, they arent out there.
 

scotty98

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No. You think I will only see a 20WHP gain now that I cooled the charge temps and can get a bit aggressive with the tune?

If you are not changing the pulley, the only HP gain will be from adding timing. As you are going to loose PSI with the intercooler, but temps will be better to allow you to add timing. How much timing are you running on the on the 430 HP run? You can add a 10% lower and keep the 3.12 upper and get aggressive with timing to shoot for the 500hp mark.
 

DaveWertz

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If you are not changing the pulley, the only HP gain will be from adding timing. As you are going to loose PSI with the intercooler, but temps will be better to allow you to add timing. How much timing are you running on the on the 430 HP run? You can add a 10% lower and keep the 3.12 upper and get aggressive with timing to shoot for the 500hp mark.
Never asked about timing. Kinda thought it was a waste to ask with how high my temps were. I think on that day it was an average of 190. I thought about doing a 10% lower, Kinda crazy how much they are. Does anybody have a good deal on a used one? I truly believe if I go to a lower pulley unless I use a grip tech that I will be dealing with possible belt slip. Im not trying to make a 2hr job for myself changing belts every 500 miles.
 

DaveWertz

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If I drop to a 2.87 pulley from a 3.12, do you think I would need a smaller belt? That's not much of a drop so my thoughts are my current belt should work?
 

DaveWertz

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I am actually calling my tuner today and seeing if he still has all my info on file. I would like to know what timing was in it and my boost numbers. Maybe that will give me an idea of what could come.
 

scotty98

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The belt will work with the 2.87, but you will start getting into slip at with that set up. You are going to get into a real big snow ball real quick with pulleys, belts, tensioners, trying to make something work.

I know on my set up I ran a 2.75 with an 10% lower and that made 514 rwhp on my street tune at 14 degs of timing with pump gas. My race tune was 101 and 22 degs of timing, number in sig. I went to a 2.75 after I put on the after cooler and only gained 2 psi over my 3.33 I had on before the after cooler set up. I did an 8 rib conversion to eliminate belt slip for the most part. My IAT's were 10 degs above ambient with my ice tank full and a gords heat exchanger. But that set up only pushed off heat soak for so long, as an over spun S-trim is just a giant heat pump.

The best advice I can give is run your 3.12 set up, talk to the tuner about timing numbers, and run it. But what you really need to do is get a T-trim, sell your S-trim, and you will be over 500 with the 3.12 all day and not getting out side the efficiency range of that unit. Another option is if you want to keep the S-trim is an 8 rib conversion. If you order all F150 pulleys, the F150 crank pulley is like 7% OD vs the mustang crank pulley. So it's a budget OD lower.
 

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