Lentech 4r70w W/ Hy-gard

[01blckcobra]

Wondering if anyone has been having issues with popping trans coolers while running hy-gard.

-8 line to cooler. both lines are 2ft in length.

I've blown 3 B&M 70298 and now a Derale Atomic. Seeing if there's a remedy.

 

[Soap]

Is that oil very thick? Try a thinner fluid?

I run the larger B&M 70297 but use Motorcraft Type F and have had no issues at all.

--Joe

 

[01blckcobra]

Is that oil very thick? Try a thinner fluid?

I run the larger B&M 70297 but use Motorcraft Type F and have had no issues at all.

--Joe

Lot thicker and pretty sticky. reminds me of molasses. It's even the low viscosity hy-gard.
Just performs some much better than ATF fluid.

Use to run ATF didn't have an issue with the coolers. Changed it out because temperatures would get so high with back to back runs and street driving. With the Hy-gard never gets above 180. Transmission performs better with the hy-gard imo. lol but not sure if its worth a cooler every few passes. Might just have to switch back if i can't figure it out. Last cooler sprung a pin whole and squirted right on the passenger rear tire, while making a pass. That was fun....

 

[2DXTRM]

not sure if a bigger line will help, ie -10an and appropriate sized cooler.

However, Lentech says something about running a specific type of filter (not sure if that has anything to do with blowing up coolers or not, but worth a look) when running Hy-Gard, per their website, Lentech » FAQ

 

[01blckcobra]

not sure if a bigger line will help, ie -10an and appropriate sized cooler.

However, Lentech says something about running a specific type of filter (not sure if that has anything to do with blowing up coolers or not, but worth a look) when running Hy-Gard, per their website, Lentech » FAQ

Was thinking about bigger line. The Deral cooler was a -10 and rated at 300psi vs (B&M 200psi). didn't see to have any positive effect. talking with a couple companies about an actual high pressure hydraulic cooler around (lol at a reasonable price).

Has the correct filter in it.

The only difference in the filters is a metal screen for hy-gard vs a paper element for atf. You can't buy the metal screen filter. well haven't found one yet. All you need to do its crack open the atf filter and replace paper element with a fine mesh metal screen. (door screen) Since hy-gard is thicker

Running Hy-gard because it was lentech recommendation. Non-lockup and well exceeds 800rwhp.
I did just have the transmission rebuilt for the first time in 8 years. But been popping cooler even since I've owned it so don't think the rebuild is an issue. first cooler lasted a few season, but was a half atf and half hy-gard life. Did leak a little with the atf after a season, very small. few passes and got a drip. figured it was a line. but nope.

Now that the cars making a little more power it has gotten worse. Not a transmission guy so I'm stumped.

Might try SWEPCO 714-20 but damn, might have to take out a loan for that stuff...

Anyone have experience with Swepco?

 

[Soap]

Use to run ATF didn't have an issue with the coolers. Changed it out because temperatures would get so high with back to back runs and street driving. With the Hy-gard never gets above 180. Transmission performs better with the hy-gard imo. lol but not sure if its worth a cooler every few passes. Might just have to switch back if i can't figure it out. Last cooler sprung a pin whole and squirted right on the passenger rear tire, while making a pass. That was fun....

The solution to high temps is not changing fluid, it's getting the appropriate sized cooler. If you get the appropriate sized cooler and go to a "normal" ATF, I bet all your issues will disappear.

As I mentioned before I just use Type F and my trans never gets over 150 on the street or at the track but my cooler is 65% larger than yours.

--Joe

 

[01blckcobra]

The solution to high temps is not changing fluid, it's getting the appropriate sized cooler. If you get the appropriate sized cooler and go to a "normal" ATF, I bet all your issues will disappear.

As I mentioned before I just use Type F and my trans never gets over 150 on the street or at the track but my cooler is 65% larger than yours.

--Joe

You have a non-lockup?

Currently running a Derale 15845 cooler. Still running the same temps as the B&M 70298s.

I had a B&M 70297 just didn't have anywhere to mount it so went with the Derale 15845.
Was told it was a little better than the 70297.

Limited on where I can mount the cooler. Where do you have yours mounted?

 

[Soap]

You have a non-lockup?

Currently running a Derale 15845 cooler. Still running the same temps as the B&M 70298s.

I had a B&M 70297 just didn't have anywhere to mount it so went with the Derale 15845.
Was told it was a little better than the 70297.

Limited on where I can mount the cooler. Where do you have yours mounted?

Yes I have a non lock up converter. Cooler is mounted in front of the radiator more towards the passenger side.

EDIT.......looked at the Derale unit, do you have the fans running all the time? With the shroud completely around the plates/fins there is no cooling going on unless you have the fans on. I never even turn my fan on because it doesn't have a shroud so with it in the grill opening it is always getting fresh air blowing across it. Also do you have the fans wired correctly so they are pulling and not pushing? Flipping the polarity flips the rotation of the fan.

--Joe

 

[01blckcobra]

Yes I have a non lock up converter. Cooler is mounted in front of the radiator more towards the passenger side.

EDIT.......looked at the Derale unit, do you have the fans running all the time? With the shroud completely around the plates/fins there is no cooling going on unless you have the fans on. I never even turn my fan on because it doesn't have a shroud so with it in the grill opening it is always getting fresh air blowing across it. Also do you have the fans wired correctly so they are pulling and not pushing? Flipping the polarity flips the rotation of the fan.

--Joe

I have it wired correctly. Fans are always on. lol check 3 times. One fan at a time, then both.
I have it mounted under the tail-shaft of the transmission basically. Slightly angled. Might have to move it. Wasn't Ideal, but last minute.

I'm running a turbo setup. Was thinking if I moved it up front, it would heat soak the intercooler and radiator. Apparently you're not having problems with that, so might just switch out the fluid to type F, and front mount a 70297. See what happens I guess.

 

[01yellercobra]

Have you checked your fluid pressure? Is there supposed to be a difference in pressure between normal ATF and the Hy-Gard? Sounds like when people switch from 5w-20 to 15w-50 to quiet a noisy issue. The thicker oil bumps up the pressure because it doesn't flow as well.

 

[01blckcobra]

No I haven't personally checked. Lentech never said anything about different pressures when I called them about switching over to hy-guard. Only stated about the mesh in the filter.
When I had it rebuilt I did mention to the shop about blowing trans-coolers. They didn't find any "cause" of it. They were in intact with lentech during the rebuild because some parts were no longer available. And some parts needed upgrades for the power increase. One thing that was stated was having short lines. Could cause a pressure spike, longer flex line would absorb that, but I dunno. Thinking about what Soap said, and do what he mentioned. See the out come of that. And maybe it's something stupid I missed. But remembering back, on ATF, it did popped a cooler but barely. Just a tiny pin hole... or faulty solder..

Far as noise, my transmission got quite on hy-gard. Smoother shifts also. Barely feel it shift unless your lugging the car.