LCA Relocation Bracket Needed for setup (yay or nay) - Help

[sonicx]

Need some help / advice -
I have a 13’ GT mustang with an A6. Currently running koni orange struts shocks & eibach pro kit (1” in front 2” in back). Also got bmr panhard bar & brace.

I recently purchased the BMR TCA032 (non adj lca). Haven’t installed it yet. Maybe I'm over thinking maybe I'm not.... Am I gonna need a relocation bracket for the LCA?

I don’t track or race it. Maybe I get to a autocross 1 or so a year otherwise just a weekend cruiser. Appreciate the feedback, help

 

[Rb0891]

Need some help / advice -
I have a 13’ GT mustang with an A6. Currently running koni orange struts shocks & eibach pro kit (1” in front 2” in back). Also got bmr panhard bar & brace.

I recently purchased the BMR TCA032 (non adj lca). Haven’t installed it yet. Maybe I'm over thinking maybe I'm not.... Am I gonna need a relocation bracket for the LCA?

I don’t track or race it. Maybe I get to a autocross 1 or so a year otherwise just a weekend cruiser. Appreciate the feedback, help

What sway bars are you running? I couldn't get the relocation brackets to work with eibach rear sway bar. Think it works with whiteline but it interfered with my convertible braces.

 

[Norm Peterson]

As far as straight-line traction is concerned, if you don't need them now with the OE LCAs, you won't need them later with the TCA032's. In other words, any need for relo brackets depends on how the car is being driven, not on the specific LCAs being fitted to it.

More on the 'driving' side to this . . . lowering your car has increased the amount of understeer due to rear axle roll steer, which mostly makes the car not want to execute slalom-type maneuvers as well as before. Relocating the axle-side LCA pivots downward by about the same amount as the rear of the car is lowered would be an appropriate ball-park fix that would make the car feel somewhat more nimble generally. Sounds like this might be more in line with the kinds of driving that you described.


Norm

 

[sonicx]

What sway bars are you running? I couldn't get the relocation brackets to work with eibach rear sway bar. Think it works with whiteline but it interfered with my convertible braces.

@Rb0891 stock sways baes (front & rear) no immediate plans to change unless I have to.

As far as straight-line traction is concerned, if you don't need them now with the OE LCAs, you won't need them later with the TCA032's. In other words, any need for relo brackets depends on how the car is being driven, not on the specific LCAs being fitted to it.

More on the 'driving' side to this . . . lowering your car has increased the amount of understeer due to rear axle roll steer, which mostly makes the car not want to execute slalom-type maneuvers as well as before. Relocating the axle-side LCA pivots downward by about the same amount as the rear of the car is lowered would be an appropriate ball-park fix that would make the car feel somewhat more nimble generally. Sounds like this might be more in line with the kinds of driving that you described.
Norm

@Norm Peterson thank you for your post. Now this brings up more questions. In your first half, (correct me if I’m wrong) but with any lca aftermarket I choose I don’t necessarily need a relocation bracket?

Then in the second half, it sounds like if I choose a relocation bracket, there’s no down side, just upside?

 

[Rb0891]

@Rb0891 stock sways baes (front & rear) no immediate plans to change unless I have to.


@Norm Peterson thank you for your post. Now this brings up more questions. In your first half, (correct me if I’m wrong) but with any lca aftermarket I choose I don’t necessarily need a relocation bracket?

Then in the second half, it sounds like if I choose a relocation bracket, there’s no down side, just upside?

My car is set up similar to yours - full eibach pro kit, non adjustable car's, adjustable uca and does fine without the relo brackets. It did look kind of cool with them before I realized the sway wouldn't work.

 

[sonicx]

My car is set up similar to yours - full eibach pro kit, non adjustable car's, adjustable uca and does fine without the relo brackets. It did look kind of cool with them before I realized the sway wouldn't work.

@rob0891 did you do the uca and lca at the same time? I wasn’t planning on doing UCAs. How’s the traction and wheel hop? I’m hoping between the lca and panhard bar I’m fine for cruising.

 

[Rb0891]

@rob0891 did you do the uca and lca at the same time? I wasn’t planning on doing UCAs. How’s the traction and wheel hop? I’m hoping between the lca and panhard bar I’m fine for cruising.

I did the uca after, but not much after. Not sure there is much difference in hookup feeling. Your pinion angle may be off a little due to lowering but I dont think it was much with the eibach springs when I measured. I did the uca because I did a one piece driveshaft at the same time.

 

[Norm Peterson]

Then in the second half, it sounds like if I choose a relocation bracket, there’s no down side, just upside?

No downside as long as you don't drop the rear LCA attachment too low (meaning too much lower than the amount the rear of the car was dropped). Too low of an axle-side pivot point changes the roll steer from understeerish to oversteerish, and how much you'll feel uneasy by it (axle steer ==> oversteer) depends on how much lower than the amount of lowering that you put the LCA's axle pivot. Say you were lowered 1.5"; you could probably drop the LCA axle pivot by 2" and be OK, but lowered 1" with the LCAs down 3" could get your attention in a big not-so-good way during an emergency lane-change maneuver.


Norm

 

[sonicx]

I did the uca after, but not much after. Not sure there is much difference in hookup feeling. Your pinion angle may be off a little due to lowering but I dont think it was much with the eibach springs when I measured. I did the uca because I did a one piece driveshaft at the same time.

@Rb0891 since we have similar setup and you skipped the relocation brackets, did you have to hulk the angle alignment to put on the bmr LCAs? Or was it as easy as i see watching the CJ Pony Parts YouTube video? Thanks

No downside as long as you don't drop the rear LCA attachment too low (meaning too much lower than the amount the rear of the car was dropped). Too low of an axle-side pivot point changes the roll steer from understeerish to oversteerish, and how much you'll feel uneasy by it (axle steer ==> oversteer) depends on how much lower than the amount of lowering that you put the LCA's axle pivot. Say you were lowered 1.5"; you could probably drop the LCA axle pivot by 2" and be OK, but lowered 1" with the LCAs down 3" could get your attention in a big not-so-good way during an emergency lane-change maneuver.
Norm

@Norm Peterson this makes sense ^. But in the same token, I am not going to have and/or be worse off not adding a relocation bracket?

 

[Rb0891]

@Rb0891 since we have similar setup and you skipped the relocation brackets, did you have to hulk the angle alignment to put on the bmr LCAs? Or was it as easy as i see watching the CJ Pony Parts YouTube video? Thanks



@Norm Peterson this makes sense ^. But in the same token, I am not going to have and/or be worse off not adding a relocation bracket?

I was worried about being able to twist it to get it in, but it wasn't to bad. Did it by myself on my four post lift and I am weak...

 

[sonicx]

I was worried about being able to twist it to get it in, but it wasn't to bad. Did it by myself on my four post lift and I am weak...

So basically you’re be A okay without RB then? I’m no He-Man but in shape, shouldn’t have an issue on floor jacks, being by myself @Rb0891 ?

 

[Rb0891]

So basically you’re be A okay without RB then? I’m no He-Man but in shape, shouldn’t have an issue on floor jacks, being by myself @Rb0891 ?

Shouldn't be an issue.

 

[Norm Peterson]

@Norm Peterson this makes sense ^. But in the same token, I am not going to have and/or be worse off not adding a relocation bracket?

Lowering without relocating the LCAs will make the car understeer more. How much more depends on how much lowering vs how much LCA relocating.

That doesn't matter as much to some people as others, and it does depend on how hard the hard cornering gets (slalom and abrupt lane change maneuvers in particular). Some people would notice more understeer right away, others wouldn't notice it no matter how heavy it gets. Most people probably fall somewhere in the middle, a little more toward being less likely to notice.

Since relo brackets can be done as a stand-alone mod and you haven't done them yet even with your lowering, your best bet at this point would be to not do them yet. Just drive the car and pay more attention to the way it feels in the corners and during any slalom/lane change maneuvers that you might make.

It's already apparent that you don't need them for launch purposes or for avoiding wheel hop (the reasons most people bother with the relo bracket mod in the first place).


Norm

 

[Norm Peterson]

did you have to hulk the angle alignment to put on the bmr LCAs? Or was it as easy as i see watching the CJ Pony Parts YouTube video? Thanks

If you do one side at a time it's pretty easy to 'drift' the LCA and LCA bracket holes to line up. Basically you pry the LCA hole into lining up with the hole on one side of the bracket (with whatever you have handy) while you insert the bolt through from the other side. You can do this pretty easily on ramps or on short stacks of 2x10's.


Norm

 

[sonicx]

If you do one side at a time it's pretty easy to 'drift' the LCA and LCA bracket holes to line up. Basically you pry the LCA hole into lining up with the hole on one side of the bracket (with whatever you have handy) while you insert the bolt through from the other side. You can do this pretty easily on ramps or on short stacks of 2x10's.
Norm

@Norm Peterson i bit the bullet and got the BMR ordered. Thanks

Question All- Am I going to have road clearance issues or need to be careful driving up on things if I’m lowered 1.5” in the rear with these brackets?

 

[Norm Peterson]

The brackets themselves aren't too likely to scrape, being that they're right next to the tires. Scraping elsewhere is mostly going to be a function of how much lower the car now sits. This would include any ride height changes due to fitting either taller tires (slightly more ground clearance) or shorter ones (a little less). Spring and damper stiffnesses have some effect under some situations.

Speed bumps shouldn't be any different from before with only the lowering. Road debris that you just barely miss running the tires over, or that get kicked inward by a front tire, are probably going to be the greatest risk.


Norm

 

[sonicx]

The brackets themselves aren't too likely to scrape, being that they're right next to the tires. Scraping elsewhere is mostly going to be a function of how much lower the car now sits. This would include any ride height changes due to fitting either taller tires (slightly more ground clearance) or shorter ones (a little less). Spring and damper stiffnesses have some effect under some situations.

Speed bumps shouldn't be any different from before with only the lowering. Road debris that you just barely miss running the tires over, or that get kicked inward by a front tire, are probably going to be the greatest risk.
Norm

@Norm Peterson. I have about 1.25-1.5” drop in the back. On Koni Orange Shocks sitting on SVEGT350 20” wheel. What should I be looking out for? Are car washes a no-no?

as a side to install: can i reuse oem hardware & bolts or Do i need a whole new factory set?

thanks

 

[Norm Peterson]

@Norm Peterson. I have about 1.25-1.5” drop in the back. On Koni Orange Shocks sitting on SVEGT350 20” wheel. What should I be looking out for? Are car washes a no-no?

Can't tell you much about car washes - I've only used the kind where you drive your car into the bay, wash, rinse, and drive it out the other end yourself. And only a few times for those.

Wouldn't want to risk damage to those wheels anyway.

as a side to install: can i reuse oem hardware & bolts or Do i need a whole new factory set?

I've removed and re-installed ones on my car a couple of times with no issues. Though I probably did put a drop of Locktite on the threads. It's been a few years . . .


Norm

 

[boostedgt12]

I reused oem hardware that I was already using