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The Terminator
Terminator Talk
Latest in the terminator alternator saga
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<blockquote data-quote="Cobra10thaniv" data-source="post: 16308923" data-attributes="member: 9578"><p>My oem alternator finally went bad. Car is a garage queen. No big amp draw radio or anything else. So no need for me to put some huge high amp replacement in. I don't even need lights no night time driving. I just want reliable even voltage.</p><p></p><p> I had rebuilt many many alternators in distant past. My needs were more not high amp but good components for the rebuild. All parts are not created equal.</p><p></p><p> Because I have not rebuilt an alternator in years ( jrgoffin ) had done tons of research on parts and what our alternator is. An exploded parts list of cobra, Mach and other alternators. This was huge help NOT wasting time researching parts and differences!</p><p></p><p>Thanks jrgoffin!! I'd msg you but can get my msgs to work on here</p><p></p><p> My tag on my original alternator said 130amp. FYI they are not 130amp ! Parts inside were 105 /110 amp. </p><p> 1) Pulled it apart found a few things. 6 diode inside. And for ease of understanding let's say 3 pos an 3 neg. The 3 neg ones were all blown. High resistance through grounding possibly..</p><p>2) Also these diode were extremely small compared to old alternators I've done. FYI diode are not all created equal in Construction and internal composition. </p><p></p><p>3) I used rebuilder in a box.com for parts awesome compant.... $50 bucks. Upgraded high amp stator $60. I opted not to use the bearing they sent on backend of case use a better grade. Just personal preference.</p><p></p><p>4) My inner slip ring barely I mean barely had wear. Rather than replace it even though I had new one in hand. I put it on the lathe touched it up.. </p><p></p><p>5) If your wondering why? Even if I put the new slip ring on ...I'd still put it on lathe touch up because after pressing new slip rings on I've found they are eccentric. I've seen brush wires break at back of brush in that tight spot. From brushes moving back an forth. Was it absolutely necessary.... no.</p><p></p><p>6) rebuilder in a box.com offers a upgraded stator that gives you anther 30 amps and rectifier has a 8 diodes vs 6. Rectifier was on a aluminum plate vs copper but so was the OE. When you order the upgraded stator they even solder on the rectifier on for you.</p><p></p><p>7) If your a diy person it can be done easy. If you never rebuilt one b4 I would tell you to watch rebuilder in a box 6g alternator videos.! He will tell you all little tricks so you don't bust anything. pay attention to the little stuff he shows. They all work. </p><p>.</p><p>8) when done if you're worried about your rebuild go to your local parts store have your alternator tested </p><p></p><p>Why did my alternator fail? Heat an corrosion on the grounding. Maybe low quailty oe parts What kills the alternator is high load an no air cooling.</p><p> You'll notice as any Electronics the regulator has cooling fins. I could see corrosion where the alternator was bolted down also resistance test verified this. A extra ground wire would be beneficial and All contacts clean </p><p></p><p> I would say make use of that brake duct to the alternator or just add a cooling scoop under the car to the alt.. !</p><p></p><p>I hope this was some help to someone </p><p></p><p>Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G870A using the <a href="http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=92568" target="_blank">svtperformance.com mobile app</a></p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Cobra10thaniv, post: 16308923, member: 9578"] My oem alternator finally went bad. Car is a garage queen. No big amp draw radio or anything else. So no need for me to put some huge high amp replacement in. I don't even need lights no night time driving. I just want reliable even voltage. I had rebuilt many many alternators in distant past. My needs were more not high amp but good components for the rebuild. All parts are not created equal. Because I have not rebuilt an alternator in years ( jrgoffin ) had done tons of research on parts and what our alternator is. An exploded parts list of cobra, Mach and other alternators. This was huge help NOT wasting time researching parts and differences! Thanks jrgoffin!! I'd msg you but can get my msgs to work on here My tag on my original alternator said 130amp. FYI they are not 130amp ! Parts inside were 105 /110 amp. 1) Pulled it apart found a few things. 6 diode inside. And for ease of understanding let's say 3 pos an 3 neg. The 3 neg ones were all blown. High resistance through grounding possibly.. 2) Also these diode were extremely small compared to old alternators I've done. FYI diode are not all created equal in Construction and internal composition. 3) I used rebuilder in a box.com for parts awesome compant.... $50 bucks. Upgraded high amp stator $60. I opted not to use the bearing they sent on backend of case use a better grade. Just personal preference. 4) My inner slip ring barely I mean barely had wear. Rather than replace it even though I had new one in hand. I put it on the lathe touched it up.. 5) If your wondering why? Even if I put the new slip ring on ...I'd still put it on lathe touch up because after pressing new slip rings on I've found they are eccentric. I've seen brush wires break at back of brush in that tight spot. From brushes moving back an forth. Was it absolutely necessary.... no. 6) rebuilder in a box.com offers a upgraded stator that gives you anther 30 amps and rectifier has a 8 diodes vs 6. Rectifier was on a aluminum plate vs copper but so was the OE. When you order the upgraded stator they even solder on the rectifier on for you. 7) If your a diy person it can be done easy. If you never rebuilt one b4 I would tell you to watch rebuilder in a box 6g alternator videos.! He will tell you all little tricks so you don't bust anything. pay attention to the little stuff he shows. They all work. . 8) when done if you're worried about your rebuild go to your local parts store have your alternator tested Why did my alternator fail? Heat an corrosion on the grounding. Maybe low quailty oe parts What kills the alternator is high load an no air cooling. You'll notice as any Electronics the regulator has cooling fins. I could see corrosion where the alternator was bolted down also resistance test verified this. A extra ground wire would be beneficial and All contacts clean I would say make use of that brake duct to the alternator or just add a cooling scoop under the car to the alt.. ! I hope this was some help to someone Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G870A using the [URL=http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=92568]svtperformance.com mobile app[/URL] [/QUOTE]
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