lash adjusters

john123456

Member
Established Member
Joined
Oct 14, 2011
Messages
59
Location
burgettstown
ok i need to change the ones on the drivers side. ill prob just do them all on that side while im in there and i want to know the best way to do this with the motor in the car . will i need the spring tool? and what would you guys normaly pull to make it go smoother because i pulled the valve cover the other day and that was more of a pain in the ass than i thought it would be. also i dont see how i could pop the rocker with a screwdriver i just couldnt get the angle. anyway im tired of the tapping /ticking sound so whats the best way? thanks for any help. also can it cause any dammage it sticking or w/e its doing to make the tapping?
 
Last edited:

USMC53CHIEF

Active Member
Established Member
Joined
Jan 4, 2011
Messages
1,228
Location
Medina, Ohio
uhhhh no impact no idea. Im changing all of mine, but my heads are off, I dont know that Ive heard of them being changed while still on car. I work at advance auto and I can get the sealed power lifters(lash adjusters). Im using the sealed power ones they are 7.99 each and I get 20% off that. pm me if you need them.
 

98 N/A 4V

Active Member
Established Member
Joined
Sep 14, 2004
Messages
2,494
Location
Tampa, FL
You can get them off with a flat head screwdriver. The spring tool helps but its not required. I did all 32 with the motor in the car.
 

98diablo

New Member
Established Member
Joined
Jan 7, 2009
Messages
69
Location
cincinnati
like above, you dont need the spring tool. the flat tip screw driver works fine taking off and installing. i think there is a short video on youtube search 32 valve dohc rocker removal. but all in all it simple to do. only thing you have to really make sure you do is rotate the engine to where the cam is positioned correctly on the rocker for removal.
 

john123456

Member
Established Member
Joined
Oct 14, 2011
Messages
59
Location
burgettstown
should i pull the intake manifold to make better room? and is it going to hurt anything to drive it like this until i get time to do it?
 
Last edited:

98diablo

New Member
Established Member
Joined
Jan 7, 2009
Messages
69
Location
cincinnati
you dont have to pull it, but if you want to you can. yes you can drive it unless....... its extremely noticeable. its a common problem yet these engines are fairly durable. you should remove the brake res assy makes the removal and install
of the valve cover 1000 times easier
 

PSUCOBRA96

Active Member
Established Member
Joined
Apr 21, 2007
Messages
9,210
Location
Maryland
When you pull them off they may just need a cleaning and inspection. There is a simple procedure how to test them , but I only half remember it and do not want to give bad advice. If you do a search you should be able to find info about it.
 

Oceanside78

New Member
Established Member
Joined
Mar 12, 2012
Messages
1,296
Location
Fayetteville, NC
Mine are done too, I have the ticking in my head. I have a laundry list of shit that needs to be done, and I'm questioning my ability to do this job. Jobs like these seem to have little room for error and it's my DD so it makes me nervous
 

Happster

Member
Established Member
Joined
Sep 6, 2008
Messages
34
Location
Dunstable, MA
Late to the thread, but for those still finding this thread, lash adjusters couldn't be easier. When the flat of the cam is on the rocker, the rockers come out easily with a screwdriver, as was mentioned. Then the lash adjusters come out by hand. Soak the new ones in oil to fill them. They need oil in them for the hydraulics to work. Someone mentioned testing them - full of oil they should take a vice to depress (gently!) and the time it takes is the measure of whether they are good or bad. I forget the spec...10 seconds I think. If you can depress them without a vice, toss them. As for the noise, these heads are always noisy. Some early iterations of the heads pre-2004 have coolant flow issues on the driver's side rear head, cylinders 6-8. That creates noise and pinging too. Make sure it is not that. Late 03 and 04 heads forward (Cobra, Mach, Aviator use them, castings end in DB and DC and they have 9 thread plug holes) have better flow, but still not ideal. There is a nice mod for that - pop the rear freeze plug off the driver's side head and the coolant tube on the passenger head and the mod is a bolt in coolant bridge that acts not so differently from the front coolant bridge. It allows flow from the rear of the driver's side head to the heater core, just like the passenger side already has by design. Problem solved.
 
Last edited:

Users who are viewing this thread



Top