Knowledgable 03 Cobra Clutch/TOB Experiences & Opinions Needed.

Tyjc444

New Member
Joined
Nov 11, 2016
Messages
9
Location
Fort worth
I bought this vehicle just over 8 months ago with 20k miles. I got it from a guy up in Little Rock. He was the 4th owner & said it has a Spec Stage 3+ clutch & that he had replaced the TOB when he purchased it around 18k miles. When I picked it up I drove it 600 miles straight from Little Rock airport to Fort Worth. The car drove great but I will say this is my first high performance vehicle & I'm not that up to speed on the way things should feel or act. When I arrived home that evening I had belt squeal & a chirruping coming from where I believed to be the clutch fork area. New pulley belt & squeal subsided but the chirruping still maintained.

1. Over the pass several months I've driven my beloved vehicle to the tune of 3k miles & lets just say my left leg has some added GIRTH! HOLY HELL, I swear it takes 100lbs. to engage the clutch but I been told that isn't abnormal with the Spec Stage 3+? If so, please feel free to make a clutch kit recommendation because I would really like something much smoother & not as heavy.

2. My clutch disengages extremely quick. Somewhere less than an inch quick & if I let anyone other than myself drives this car they stall the vehicle numerous times before over revving and lurching the vehicle violently. At which point they are done driving. Like I mentioned earlier if this is a trait that comes with Spec Stage 3+ please point me in the direction of a clutch kit that provides more travel to disengage.
  • The car does have a firewall adjuster but if adjusted too far chirruping turns to whining & if its not quite far enough the chirruping becomes more prevalent. Eventually I was able to find a sweet spot but I feel there the cable or something related to the cable isn't right. Like its stretched or something. A co-worker of mine shared an experience he had with his 85 Toyota pick-up that disengaged very quickly & he said it ended up being a cracked clutch pedal assembly not holding proper tension on his cable. Again, I'm a shade tree mechanic at best and have very little knowledge about the mechanics of my car so if this is irrelevant to my particular vehicle please don't be afraid to say "hey man your in the weeds".

3. At times it can be very resistant to shifts into 1st & R when at rest. Also, under high torque situations it doesn't want to shift at all. Like 1st->2nd & so fourth until 5th & 6th gear. Recently, I was making a quick lane change on the throttle, off throttle, clutch in, shift attempt, frustration.., 2nd shift attempt with a little more force at which point the gear grab but not in a polite way. Since then things haven't been the same. Clutch pressure doesn't feel as stiff & she really doesn't like getting into gear at rest or shifting in general. In motion shifts just feel rough and sick. This particular incident happened within the past 2 weeks & I have refrained from driving the car since in fear of being stranded.

Please if anyone can help a fellow Cobra lover out it would be greatly appreciated. Thanks to anyone that has taken the time to read my short story about my car issues & I hope all is well for you. I will respond asap for I am wanting to have my issue corrected by the end of this month.
 

Brutal Metal

Well-Known Member
Established Member
Joined
Feb 2, 2009
Messages
10,571
Location
Largo Florida
to me all your symptoms sound like a clutch cable out of adjustment. Spec 3+'s have two different pressure plate options, soft pedal feel and regular, I'm guessing you have the latter.
 

Rich'sTRsvt

Active Member
Established Member
Joined
Oct 28, 2012
Messages
798
Location
Madison, WI
Not going into 1st or reverse when not moving usually means the clutch is not releasing all the way and it should grab mid travel not right off the floor. Adjust the fire wall adjuster out farther from the fire wall until it goes into 1st and reverse easier.
 

Zemedici

Well-Known Member
Established Member
Joined
Jan 7, 2013
Messages
21,223
Location
Atlanta, GA
Get that garbage ass Spec clutch out of there. Put in a nice McLeod unit, and make sure the cable is adjusted correctly = no more clutch woes.

I put 2 spec clutches in my first cobra, still wouldnt drive / release correctly (similar to what you're experiencing), put in a McLeod. No more problemo.
 

Tyjc444

New Member
Joined
Nov 11, 2016
Messages
9
Location
Fort worth
Thanks fellas! This feedback is awesome! Today, I had the opportunity to speak with a very knowledgeable Mechanic at work. His assessment of my symptoms are right there with what y'all are saying. So tomorrow morning I hope to get a clutch cable, TOB, clutch, cable fork, pilot bearing & sleeved order. I might not need all of these parts but I work out of town & want everything, aside from the spline, to ready to go when I arrive home. Nothing worse than starting a task & having efficiency issues due to logistics. I'll end up getting impatient & buying something in store at retail price.

Last question:
Do y'all know if it's necessary to buy an adjustable clutch cable to use with the firewall adjuster?

Thank again guys!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

svt_snapp

Member
Established Member
Joined
Oct 19, 2016
Messages
30
Location
KY
I recently had similar issues with my Cobra. Like you my clutch was extremely hard to push down and just like you I was told I had a spec clutch so I had the same thoughts as you. Also my clutch engaged close to the floor as well, and was extremely hard to shift especially at high RPMs.

I ended up putting a McLeod RXT clutch, McLeod Aluminum flywheel, McLeod retainer sleeve, McLeod throwout bearing, and McLeod adjustable pivot ball. D&D 26 Spline Input Shaft

When I took the old clutch out it turned out I had a RAM clutch not a Spec.

After pulling the trans 4 times till I had the pivot ball adjusted right the clutch it was making an awful chattering noise. I know twin disc are suppose to be loud but this was insane so I called McLeod and he told me to drive it. So after a 10-15 mile cruise on some back roads (lots of up & down shifting) most of the noise was gone and the clutch felt amazing.

You can still hear some noise but it is real faint. In the end it was totally worth it. The pedal feel is amazing. It is much softer than I ever thought it could be. The clutch engages about half way up now. So far the shifting is much better. I still have 100 miles left on the break in but I have made a couple 2-4th gear pulls.
 

Tyjc444

New Member
Joined
Nov 11, 2016
Messages
9
Location
Fort worth
I recently had similar issues with my Cobra. Like you my clutch was extremely hard to push down and just like you I was told I had a spec clutch so I had the same thoughts as you. Also my clutch engaged close to the floor as well, and was extremely hard to shift especially at high RPMs.

I ended up putting a McLeod RXT clutch, McLeod Aluminum flywheel, McLeod retainer sleeve, McLeod throwout bearing, and McLeod adjustable pivot ball. D&D 26 Spline Input Shaft

When I took the old clutch out it turned out I had a RAM clutch not a Spec.

After pulling the trans 4 times till I had the pivot ball adjusted right the clutch it was making an awful chattering noise. I know twin disc are suppose to be loud but this was insane so I called McLeod and he told me to drive it. So after a 10-15 mile cruise on some back roads (lots of up & down shifting) most of the noise was gone and the clutch felt amazing.

You can still hear some noise but it is real faint. In the end it was totally worth it. The pedal feel is amazing. It is much softer than I ever thought it could be. The clutch engages about half way up now. So far the shifting is much better. I still have 100 miles left on the break in but I have made a couple 2-4th gear pulls.

Thanks for the reply! It's good to hear I'm not the only one.lol

Although, I've never heard of a Pivot Ball? Where is this part located?

I'm fully plan a doing the clutch while the tranny is dropped but I don't have a clue if my spline is 26 or 10 & don't anticipate on replacing it for now. So I'll get the clutch once I put eyes on my spline. Hopefully my sleeve is intact & my spline hasn't acquired any damage from the bad TOB.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

svt_snapp

Member
Established Member
Joined
Oct 19, 2016
Messages
30
Location
KY
Thanks for the reply! It's good to hear I'm not the only one.lol

Although, I've never heard of a Pivot Ball? Where is this part located?

I'm fully plan a doing the clutch while the tranny is dropped but I don't have a clue if my spline is 26 or 10 & don't anticipate on replacing it for now. So I'll get the clutch once I put eyes on my spline. Hopefully my sleeve is intact & my spline hasn't acquired any damage from the bad TOB.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The pivot ball is on the end of the clutch fork. It's on the opposite side as the clutch cable. It's what the fork pivots on to move the TOB.

Where I went with an RXT I needed to move the pivot ball closer to the transmission to clear the bigger RXT. Supposedly their is no way to tell if you need it or not. Just trial and error.

And if you plan on racing the car much or making big power then I would definitely recommend upgrading the input shaft. But if not you will probably be fine with a 10spline.


Sent from my iPhone using the svtperformance.com mobile app
 

Users who are viewing this thread



Top