Knocking..

Giller1

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I have done some digging on this issue so please dont tell me to use the "search" button. I made a rookie mistake when changing my oil and didnt make sure the old oil filter "O" ring didnt come off. Long story short I ran my car low on oil and now its knocking. The noise sounds like it is coming from the top part of the engine, so Im guessing lifters.. Any and all info appreciated.

It was only drove 1-2 miles at most before It was noticed.
 

pappytaco

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First i would look at your oil and see if there are metal shavings. After this i would try to pin point the location of the knock and go from there
 

Modular Racing

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The lower end (shortblock) is generally first to suffer from low oil. Because of the open valley design of the Modular engine the noises tend to be transmitted up through the head and top of the engine.

The engine will likely need a rebuild. Take a look at the $1999 rebuild we have which gets you new Manley pistons, new Manley H beam rods, Total seal rings and Clevite bearings along with complete assembly and balancing. The crank may require turning if it is bad so add $150 to this price worst case scenario.

Best of luck, let us know how we can help!
Modular Mustang Racing

chutes%20out.jpg
 

jmstekguy

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Rod bearing most likely, time for a teardown. The bottom end noise on a 4.6/5.4 will sound like a lifter tick. Easy way to tell is cut the filter apart and look between the pleats. So not run it if you value the crankshaft. Good luck
 

Giller1

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Thanks Modular Racing, I may be in touch here soon. The noise is hardly noticable at start up but gets alittle louder as the car warms up. And if the car is revved the noise fades alittle.
 

01Jes

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I have done some digging on this issue so please dont tell me to use the "search" button. I made a rookie mistake when changing my oil and didnt make sure the old oil filter "O" ring didnt come off. Long story short I ran my car low on oil and now its knocking. The noise sounds like it is coming from the top part of the engine, so Im guessing lifters.. Any and all info appreciated.

It was only drove 1-2 miles at most before It was noticed.

So you installed the oil filter with an o-ring already installed on the car? Guess it was slow leaking?

Sorry bout the bad news that's a bummer

I usually have a habit of looking under the car while its running after each oil change. Hope it's something simple
 

Giller1

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I'm guessing is started as a slow leak but it blew part of the old "o" ring out and lost alot all at once.


I pulled the valve cover off this evening and pulled a couple of the lifters hoping that it would be the culprit. None of them were loose so I'm guessing that they are all still good. So my next step is to get a stethoscope and pinpoint where the noise is coming from.
 

Blueline

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While the car is running, pull one injector plug at a time. While the car is idling, pull an injector plug, no change in the noise, plug it back in and move to the next plug. You will find the damaged cylinder when the noise stops when you pull the correct injector.

Goodluck!
 

Giller1

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I will do that tomorrow, I was really hoping is was something small and easy to replace. I bet a dumb mistake like this will never happen again. Thanks for the info
 

bottledgt

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you say almost...so its still there...given what youve said,you have rod bearings hurt. pull the filter like suggested. theres metal in it. almost guarantee it.
 

Giller1

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Ok, time has come to pull the engine. I dont have access to a lift but was thinking about taking it out the bottom anyway bc it seems easier. Pros and cons? For those people that have removed your cobras hearts before please chime in and give a newbie some pointers. Thanks.
 

hotcobra03

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Ok, time has come to pull the engine. I dont have access to a lift but was thinking about taking it out the bottom anyway bc it seems easier. Pros and cons? For those people that have removed your cobras hearts before please chime in and give a newbie some pointers. Thanks.


i had 0 tools when i did mine...

i went out the top...

my situation was dirt driveway...

i parked under tree and used the branch,,come along and chain..

trans stayed in car,,hood stayed on..

used 2x6 to roll car back..lowered engine onto a stand..

it really doesnt take long at all..about an hr

i left ac attached and power steering system ,and brake system..

it looks hard at first...

i suggest you break lower pulley bolt before anything...this is the hardest part...

in stickys before you post read...here you will find the factory service manual to follow
 

Giller1

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I couldnt find any stickys or write-ups on pulling the engine. I have dont the tree and come along engine pull before, and its no fun. This time I will be using my buddys heated garage. I was considering out the bottom bc there dont seem to be any room from the top. If there is a write-up on the best way to do this lead me in that direction.
 

hotcobra03

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Index of /images/2003_Mustang_Manual

this isnt a write up its the manual...

you can see what needs to be removed to go out bottom...

http://www.svtperformance.com/forum...e-you-post-read-terminator-faqs-new-guys.html

also see the 2nd version of how to....

its a 50/50 split...some go down some up...i think going up is half the work...but thats me

only thing on top is booster..takes 5 mins to move without touching brake lines..it will swing to where battery sits and you tie it to hold..the hood will even shut with it there..

radiator comes out with fan still attached...than its wide open..

only other thing would be longtubes,,as i have to make it harder

the engine is very heavy complete...you will also need a big stand...i had gotten the biggest harbor friegt had and still had to modify it to make fit
 
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Giller1

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Well I couldn't check the old oil filter for metal shavings and the noise wasn't the lifters. So my plan is to pull the motor and see how bad it's hurt. If the damage is to extensive I'm going to get a new short block from mmr.
 

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