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The Terminator
Engine/Tuning
Kenne Bell Boost-A-Pump issues?
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<blockquote data-quote="pdm" data-source="post: 10625860" data-attributes="member: 78261"><p>Ok, let me know if any of this is incorrect. You have a factory fuel pump circuit that acts as the switch for the relay. If you have not upgraded every wire on that circuit, it should remain a 20A. Why did you switch it to 30A? Did you have a problem with blowing the 20A fuse since installing the BAP? The other two legs on the relay run to battery and BAP.</p><p></p><p>What capacity fuse is currently on the BAP? if it's not 40A, it will blow. The BAP will supply the 40A, and I guarantee those twin GT pumps will draw close to 40A. I am lost as to why KB would supply anything other than a 40A fuse. If that is a 40A fuse, your problem could be anywhere between the fuse and the fuel tank (BAP, pumps, or associated wiring). How is the FPDM wired in?</p><p></p><p>I believe the hum is an unrelated issue. If you turn the ignition off, and the BAP continues to hum, it is obviously getting voltage from somewhere. This can be one of two things. Either the relay is sticking, or the fuel pump circuit is still sending a signal to the relay. I doubt the latter, because a properly functioning relay would be on or off, and I understand you to say that the BAP is definitely getting less than 12v. If you're buying quality relays, it is unlikely that you have two bad ones in a row, but if they're Taiwan junk off of eBay, that is very possible. Here's a quick check you can do to determine which is causing the problem. Turn the ignition off, and if the BAP continues to hum, pull the fuel pump circuit fuse under the hood. If the hum does not quit, you have a bad relay. If it does quit, something is not switching properly. We can figure this out, when I know how your FPDM is wired in. GL!</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="pdm, post: 10625860, member: 78261"] Ok, let me know if any of this is incorrect. You have a factory fuel pump circuit that acts as the switch for the relay. If you have not upgraded every wire on that circuit, it should remain a 20A. Why did you switch it to 30A? Did you have a problem with blowing the 20A fuse since installing the BAP? The other two legs on the relay run to battery and BAP. What capacity fuse is currently on the BAP? if it's not 40A, it will blow. The BAP will supply the 40A, and I guarantee those twin GT pumps will draw close to 40A. I am lost as to why KB would supply anything other than a 40A fuse. If that is a 40A fuse, your problem could be anywhere between the fuse and the fuel tank (BAP, pumps, or associated wiring). How is the FPDM wired in? I believe the hum is an unrelated issue. If you turn the ignition off, and the BAP continues to hum, it is obviously getting voltage from somewhere. This can be one of two things. Either the relay is sticking, or the fuel pump circuit is still sending a signal to the relay. I doubt the latter, because a properly functioning relay would be on or off, and I understand you to say that the BAP is definitely getting less than 12v. If you're buying quality relays, it is unlikely that you have two bad ones in a row, but if they're Taiwan junk off of eBay, that is very possible. Here's a quick check you can do to determine which is causing the problem. Turn the ignition off, and if the BAP continues to hum, pull the fuel pump circuit fuse under the hood. If the hum does not quit, you have a bad relay. If it does quit, something is not switching properly. We can figure this out, when I know how your FPDM is wired in. GL! [/QUOTE]
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