KB 2.8LC separate cooling system ideas.

[laruei]

So Im looking to go 2.8LC but I have a killer chiller (not advised for LC). For the deal I am getting I dont have any options other then the LC.

So I am at a bit of a fork in the road.

Do I..
Create a 2nd intercooler system with res, pump and small heat exchanger? (I can make this pretty easy but complexity, weight, efficiency come into question)
or
Tie it off of coolant system and remove all benefits of the LC'ing (once warm it would stay in the 200 degree range)?
or
Not run coolant in it at all and keep the boost under 25psi?
or?

Thanks for any input.

 

[Wiseguy]

Run the Lc lines in to the coolant system of the engine(get the flow correct) and then run the KC for the intercooler. No issue at all.

So Im looking to go 2.8LC but I have a killer chiller (not advised for LC). For the deal I am getting I dont have any options other then the LC.

So I am at a bit of a fork in the road.

Do I..
Create a 2nd intercooler system with res, pump and small heat exchanger? (I can make this pretty easy but complexity, weight, efficiency come into question)
or
Tie it off of coolant system and remove all benefits of the LC'ing (once warm it would stay in the 200 degree range)?
or
Not run coolant in it at all and keep the boost under 25psi?
or?

Thanks for any input.

 

[laruei]

The 200 degree engine temps wont effect the drive at all?

Edit: Thanks for responding btw!

 

[Wiseguy]

No, gt500 guys do this all the time.

 

[MyStIcHrOmE 04]

Getting the system purged is a nitemare with engine coolant, as the lines are higher than the crossover. A separate system is the best way to go.

 

[SlowSVT]

I think a dedicated HE would make the most sense from a cooling perspective as opposed to having to add ANOTHER cooler and a pump. Plumbing the engine coolant directly to the blower will dump BTU's from the engine which generates far more of the stuff. Keep in mind the blower generates most of it's heat only when its in boost and is constantly fed by cool outside air from the intake and is cooled from the outside as well. Best thing is to minimize heat transfer to the blower. I think an LC blower is a bit of a "mixed bag". For air cooling I like the Whipple and TVS the best, KB the least.

 

[ctgreddy]

are you getting the lc blower used or something? I'm assuming so since you said it's the only option. In the case of having a killer chiller I'd just try and trade it to someone with a non-lc.

 

[slvr10th]

On my car I dedicated the factor intercooler tank and pump to the liquid cooled setup and added a transmission cooler up front. Then I went with a trunk mounted ice tank with Meizer pump and the factory intercooler for the blower. You could wire it up so the aftermarket pump kicks on the same time as the factory one did or just add a switch for the rear pump.

 

[laruei]

Thanks for all the ideas everyone! Im thinking a 3rd cooling system is going to not only be the easiest but the safest in regards to coolant burping and case life.

The pile of parts would basically mirror the stock setup save for a trans cooler mounted to the back of my existing heat exchanger... Total should be less then ~$150 and if i use a stock intercooler tank the weight should be under 20#.

 

[lucheski]

Thanks for all the ideas everyone! Im thinking a 3rd cooling system is going to not only be the easiest but the safest in regards to coolant burping and case life.

The pile of parts would basically mirror the stock setup save for a trans cooler mounted to the back of my existing heat exchanger... Total should be less then ~$150 and if i use a stock intercooler tank the weight should be under 20#.

You know the 3.6L Kit is out for the 03-04 cobra you could sell the 2.8 and go with that .....makes 70hp more at same boost level as 2.8 because it takes less power to turn...a guy on here just made 950+ with it

 

[lucheski]

The 200 degree engine temps wont effect the drive at all?

Edit: Thanks for responding btw!

He's trolling you bro....obviously you would NOT want 200* engine coolant

 

[Wiseguy]

No trolling here. A lot of variables here. More boost higher front plate/gear temps. 350 plus degrees. Less boost, less temp. So adding another system with unknown efficiency, space confinements because of the Kchiller, pump failure, etc could have issues too. Its a great idea and didn't say otherwise. In terms of simplicity ,(which I like), Average engine coolant temp at the correct output source of 180 degrees or so would not pose a issue in maintaining lower 350-400 degree peak" front case temps. Both ways can be checked with Iat2 monitoring to see a difference.

 

[lucheski]

No trolling here. A lot of variables here. More boost higher front plate/gear temps. 350 plus degrees. Less boost, less temp. So adding another system with unknown efficiency, space confinements because of the Kchiller, pump failure, etc could have issues too. Its a great idea and didn't say otherwise. In terms of simplicity ,(which I like), Average engine coolant temp at the correct output source of 180 degrees or so would not pose a issue in maintaining lower 350-400 degree peak" front case temps. Both ways can be checked with Iat2 monitoring to see a difference.

Not sure where you get your info but it's not a good idea to use 200 degree engine coolant to cool a blower case...continuing to advise others to do so spreads mis-information. I honestly thought it was sarcasm.

 

[oldmodman]

Not sure where you get your info but it's not a good idea to use 200 degree engine coolant to cool a blower case...continuing to advise others to do so spreads mis-information. I honestly thought it was sarcasm.

You are correct. It's not a good idea. Info below for anyone that wants to try it.

If you go to Kenne Bells web site they specifically tell you to use engine coolant for the front case coolant. And you are even told not to use chilled (killer chiller) coolant EVER. The chilled coolant would over cool the gear housing and cause clearance problems. The entire reason for the Liquid Cooling mod on their blower is to equalize the temperatures at the front and back of the housing. So 185 to 210 degree fluid will pull out the extra 150 degrees of heat from the front of the case and the bearing area. Without overcooling it and creating clearance issues.

There are ways to cool the ENTIRE housing if you want to try it. Get a cold blanket with embedded cooling tubes and strap it down over the blower. You would still have a tremendous differential in case temps, but it would be top to bottom and not front to back. I have seen this being used on blown gas cars at Bonneville but their blowers were all race prepped GMC type blowers. And I am pretty sure that our screw type blowers have much smaller clearances.

So, in the end go ahead and use chilled coolant for the Kenne Bell blower and report back as to you success or failure.

 

[Wiseguy]

Not sure where you get your info but it's not a good idea to use 200 degree engine coolant to cool a blower case...continuing to advise others to do so spreads mis-information. I honestly thought it was sarcasm.

Again, its been done with no issues. What's the mis-information. Why, because most of the cars I get run a separate ice system in the rear trunk. Shocking the KB will cause rotor failure. This owner has A killer chiller that could shock the KB also. If you can maintain 130 degree temp for the LC then its a no brainer that is better, but needs a separate system. Again, your gauge at 200 degrees doesn't mean the engine cooling system as a whole is 200 degrees. Find a source off the t-stat that is around 170-180 degrees and that is only 20 degrees higher then the 160degree range Kb gives with less parts, more room, less worry. And again,..as stated, temps will vary on conditions and use...

 

[MBoyle1]

To add another cooling system seems crazy.IMO I'd sell the KC ( lower engine temp & load of pump) pipe LC into intercooler.win/win!

 

[laruei]

The KC was a complex install I am not really interested in opening back up. Do i have the tools and freon to do it? yea but i have NEVER seen a heat exchanger cool the fluid to 38 degree's when the ambient is in the 70's. Just sayin.

As for the complexity and ideas... I dont see it as being all that complex to add a 3rd cooling system. I have all the pieces already, which with Cobra friends was remarkably easy to obtain. I will go ahead and mount a stock intercooler tank under the rad cowl, and a large trans cooler mounted to and behind the stock location heat exchanger (which is currently unused due to KC, but i do plan to hook it up for open track days). The only thing left after that is the location of the pump, which im thinking will go near the fan and ABS module. It can be tied off the stock pump wiring as i think that circuit is large enough to support two low-medium draw stock pumps. We will see on that one. I could always run a relay and separate wiring if necessary. I will have to judge that after install. But even then it would be like 5 wires max.

If i had a 160 degree thermostat i would just run the LC off the engine coolant. However i run a 180 (and refuse to go lower), usually see running temps closer to the mid to upper 190's and i feel that's just too hot for the snout to run ALL the time. My only worry is i dont really have any idea how much heat the LC is going to put out so i don't know if my setup will be able to remove enough BTU's. Time will tell.

 

[MBoyle1]

Yes,As being an HVAC Tec.I understand the installs & low Intercooler temps.Im just not sold on the fact that this over comes the higher engine temp,load of pump & relying on A/C system + now the weight of another system.Just IMO good luck & looking forward to your results!! I was thinking about removing my A/C pump & condenser for better air flow & weight reduction but the wife likes it that 2 times A year!

 

[laruei]

Yea down here in SoCal removing the AC (for me) is not an option. Its been in the 100's quite regularly in recent summers..

As for the weight. Meh. I have a few lightweight items that offset the KC and the new parts going on so Im not stressing about weight. Plus at 750hp.. do i really need to worry about those 20lbs? Maybe if it was a track dedicated monster... but its not and never will be while I own it.

Ill post up whatever I end up doing. Its likely to be a few weeks as I am stilling finishing up other items on the car..I posted this last night lol