K&N FIPK Gen 2 mod.

laruei

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When I was looking over Kenne Bell's website i noticed thier CAI included a 4" intake "extender."

I recently bought the FIPK Gen 2 due to the fact that it smog legal. I wanted the JLT pipe but didnt want to mess with installing the stock every 2 years for emissions.

At any rate i figured since the Cobra had such easy vents to attach duct piping too i would give this simple mod a go. Any input is greatly accepted as Im sure there are better ways to do this. I just wanted to keep the drilling and modification of the stock parts to a minimum.

Tools Needed:
Ratchet
8mm Socket
10mm deep socket
Phillips Screw Driver
Needle Nose (for plastic retaining pins)
Drill
4" Flex tubing. (got mine at pep boys for 30 bucks)
One large hose clamp (at least 4 inch in diameter)
3 Zip Ties

Step 1:
Take the front bumper off.

There are (4) 10mm nuts, (2) phillips head screws, and (4) retaining pins:

2 Retaining pins on the edge of the painted surface by the headlight.
2 phillips head screws on the inner fenderwell, 1 per side.
2 Retaining pins under the bumper, 1 per side.
2 10mm bolts in the fender on each side where the bumper meets the fender.
Disconnect both fog lights.
Pull the bumper off by pulling the fender sides out so the bolts come out, then slide the bumper off by pulling it away from the car.

I removed my headlight without knowing there was no space behind the light.
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Step 2:
Check for anything interfearing.
P3180009.jpg

I had to rotate a hose clamp to keep it from chaffing on the ducting. I planned to run it in between the H/E lines.
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Step 3:
Mock up.
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Initial end point
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The length of tubing i used.
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Step 4:
Remove drivers side fog light.
Use the 8mm socket and remove 4 screws around the fog light.
Set it out of the way.
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Step 5:
Drill holes in the meaty parts around the vent.
I drilled 2 holes: One above and one below
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Step 6:
Install rubber connector into ducting and put on hose clamp but dont tighten.

Step 7:
Install onto bumper vent use 2 zip routed into holes and around hose clamp.
Snug and clip ends.
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Step 8:
Reinstall fog light and 4 bolts. DO NOT OVER tighten.

Step 9:
Install bumper close to body but not all the way on.

Route Hose through H/E lines and up to fender opening by air filter.
P3180023.jpg


Step 10:
Punch hole in ducting at least 2 ribs deep.
Run zip tie through new hole and around whichever hole you would like in fender.

Step 11:
Install bumber in reverse steps.

Finished product:
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Enjoy forced cold air to SMOG approved filter :)
 
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T-Pain808

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Cool, I didn't even know they made those still. I remember the ones for 80' to early 90's stangs. Good write up too.
 

akula51

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Very nice, I knew this had to be doable. One more little 1' section of tubing on the right to make everything seem 'balanced' and symmetrtical and bad-ass. Nice writeup, thanks.

Ack
 

laruei

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Your welcome guys :)

and to answer your question, no i dont really worry about stuff going in there.. i mean sure it has a direct path to the air filter and sure its likely going to get dirty faster but if thats the case then i know its actually helping ;)

really the only thing i would be somewhat worried about it water...BUT.. i dont think that even when spraying straight into it with a hose it would reach the filter.. thats an idea.. ill try that and see what happens.. but if a water hose at 32psi cant reach the filter then driving in it shouldnt be too much worse..

also, i live in san diego.. i think dust will be the worst enemy i encounter till next winter :)


ill let you guys know how the hose barrage works out....

later.
 

T-Pain808

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That fresh air got to help alot. Again great write up, also I also recomend a good filter like amsoil. Hell I don't know how all these guys can run whipple, Kb and all these mods and not spend 200 bucks a year on good oil/oil filter and a good air filter.
 

byron m

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did this mod a few years ago works great.It's easy to do without removing the front end.A cheap way is 4"dryer hose,very flexable just paint the white hose black on inside if you want.
 

laruei

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Wow back from the dead.. i took this off btw...

I got brake cooling ducts and on top of that they say that the reason they put heat sheilds on K&N's is so that you dont get air rushings towards the MAF from the cooling fan that can throw off signals.. i have to assume this would do the same..
 

byron m

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Have had air from frontend for years and temps at mass air sensor are the same as outside air and motor runs smooth with MAF-V stable at steady speeds and big improvement in MPG.I haven't had any side affects other than more power better gas milage and getting air temps at mass air temp sensor to run at air temp.20,000 miles & counting, filter will pick up a few bugs,but it cools of AIT-1 so fast with it it's is well worth it,I use my predator to keep an eye on IAT-1 temps,and use another temp guage to get outside temp to make sure it was working,the coolest fresh air for cheap money.Motor runs perfect just cooler intake air temps.I think it's the hot air from rad.they are worried about,I am also using Innovate wideband for AF mixture.If it is tuned when hot it does cool it off on cold mornings in Maine enough to lean it out,if getting big temp.swings it is a good idea to check AF,thats telling you it's working well.Maf readings are fine,just cools it off fast.
 
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