Just Installed MM Aluminum Steering Rack Bushings-Very Happy

[funmoneypit]

Just got done installing the MM aluminum steering rack bushings for the stock k-member. I bought my car in February from the original owners. It had 19,700 miles on it and original tires. The steering was pretty vague. I installed new tires all the way around and it helped some but still not what I wanted. Did a bunch of research and found out about the aluminum bushings. For $40 it was a no brainer. After I got done, took it for a drive. Definite improvement. The steering feels very precise now and doesn't wander like it did before. I am going to take it for a front end alignment in the next couple days so I would expect it to even get a little better. I don't think the original owners ever did a front end alignment.

If you are thinking about installing these bushings, do it! You will be very happy!!

 

[94slowbra1]

I agree, for $40 it's a must do.

 

[R.D.P.]

If it's lowered you should look into the Steeda X2 ball joints, supposed to correct that wandering sensation. Might to also do that before alignment.

 

[funmoneypit]

9

If it's lowered you should look into the Steeda X2 ball joints, supposed to correct that wandering sensation. Might to also do that before alignment.

Not lowered so no issue there. Really am on the fence about lowering. I don't mind the look of the car the way it sets and I really don't want to have to worry about it bottoming out all the time. Also I really like the way the car transfers weight when getting on it. I know once you lower a car, the weight transfer suffers.

I have a lot of mods to install that I have bought so I will at least wait until I get through all the installs sitting in the garage.

Thanks for the info though!

 

[mooch29]

I installed these last weekend too. Everything feels much sharper. Well worth the $40!

 

[HPLouis]

Hey,
My car is 117/366 and built on 12/18 too.

 

[funmoneypit]

Hey,
My car is 117/366 and built on 12/18 too.

Sweet! Mine was born first so mine it is the big brother. LOL

 

[P49Y-CY]

good to know! I may have to try those someday

 

[HPLouis]

sweet! Mine was born first so mine it is the big brother. Lol

lol

 

[mr. b_98GT]

I installed the MM Aluminum Rack Bushings not too long ago along with MM CC plates, Bilstein HD's, H&R Race Springs, MM Iso's, and new stock style balljoints. I wasn't too happy at first with the aluminum bushings because I was getting a popping sound when I turned, and I could feel it in the steering wheel. I realized that the rear bushing was making contact with the k-member. I had to re-install them a few days ago to clear the k-member from the bushings because it was causing a binding issue (MM instructions explain this, I just didn't do it the first time I installed them). Now, the steering feels very nice, and I'm really pleased with the whole set-up. I'll be getting a MM Bumpsteer Kit for it sometime this year, then the only thing I want to do to the front suspension will be the MM Steering Shaft.

If you are debating lowering springs, go with H&R Race Springs. They are not as steep of a drop as other springs, and the car will still have a raked look with the rear sitting higher than the front; I doubt if weight transfer suffers that much with them. I also went with MM Iso's (Prothane Poly Iso's), which raises the car a little more over stock ones. I bought the car with cut springs in the front, and Eibach springs in the rear, and there was very little to no fender gap. I bottomed out and scraped like crazy. Now, I don't have to worry about bottoming out, and I can clear 99% of speed bumps, driveways, etc. Car sits lower than stock, so the 4x4 look is gone.

 

[mooch29]

I installed the MM Aluminum Rack Bushings not too long ago along with MM CC plates, Bilstein HD's, H&R Race Springs, MM Iso's, and new stock style balljoints. I wasn't too happy at first with the aluminum bushings because I was getting a popping sound when I turned, and I could feel it in the steering wheel. I realized that the rear bushing was making contact with the k-member. I had to re-install them a few days ago to clear the k-member from the bushings because it was causing a binding issue (MM instructions explain this, I just didn't do it the first time I installed them). Now, the steering feels very nice, and I'm really pleased with the whole set-up. I'll be getting a MM Bumpsteer Kit for it sometime this year, then the only thing I want to do to the front suspension will be the MM Steering Shaft.

If you are debating lowering springs, go with H&R Race Springs. They are not as steep of a drop as other springs, and the car will still have a raked look with the rear sitting higher than the front; I doubt if weight transfer suffers that much with them. I also went with MM Iso's (Prothane Poly Iso's), which raises the car a little more over stock ones. I bought the car with cut springs in the front, and Eibach springs in the rear, and there was very little to no fender gap. I bottomed out and scraped like crazy. Now, I don't have to worry about bottoming out, and I can clear 99% of speed bumps, driveways, etc. Car sits lower than stock, so the 4x4 look is gone.

How did you go about reinstalling them? I too am getting the popping feeling. However when I put everything back together it didn't seem like anything was hitting the K member??

 

[funmoneypit]

I installed the MM Aluminum Rack Bushings not too long ago along with MM CC plates, Bilstein HD's, H&R Race Springs, MM Iso's, and new stock style balljoints. I wasn't too happy at first with the aluminum bushings because I was getting a popping sound when I turned, and I could feel it in the steering wheel. I realized that the rear bushing was making contact with the k-member. I had to re-install them a few days ago to clear the k-member from the bushings because it was causing a binding issue (MM instructions explain this, I just didn't do it the first time I installed them). Now, the steering feels very nice, and I'm really pleased with the whole set-up. I'll be getting a MM Bumpsteer Kit for it sometime this year, then the only thing I want to do to the front suspension will be the MM Steering Shaft.

If you are debating lowering springs, go with H&R Race Springs. They are not as steep of a drop as other springs, and the car will still have a raked look with the rear sitting higher than the front; I doubt if weight transfer suffers that much with them. I also went with MM Iso's (Prothane Poly Iso's), which raises the car a little more over stock ones. I bought the car with cut springs in the front, and Eibach springs in the rear, and there was very little to no fender gap. I bottomed out and scraped like crazy. Now, I don't have to worry about bottoming out, and I can clear 99% of speed bumps, driveways, etc. Car sits lower than stock, so the 4x4 look is gone.

Thanks for the info. All my research says to do the H&R Race Springs too. I do like the look with those springs. The IOS's are nice too as you can alter the height.

I really made sure my bushing wasn't hitting the k-member as I had read about others having the same issue you were. My passenger side was ok but I had to use a punch and 4 lb sledge to hammer the driver side enough to clear. Put it together and took it apart three times until I got enough clearance. Should get it aligned this week.

 

[funmoneypit]

How did you go about reinstalling them? I too am getting the popping feeling. However when I put everything back together it didn't seem like anything was hitting the K member??

Check each aluminum bushing on the bottom towards the k-member. My passenger side was ok but my drivers side was hitting. I took it apart and used a punch and 4 lb hammer to dent that area. It took me three times to finally get it cleared. I did the passenger side for the heck of it. Go out with a flashlight and I bet your drivers side is hitting.

 

[mooch29]

Check each aluminum bushing on the bottom towards the k-member. My passenger side was ok but my drivers side was hitting. I took it apart and used a punch and 4 lb hammer to dent that area. It took me three times to finally get it cleared. I did the passenger side for the heck of it. Go out with a flashlight and I bet your drivers side is hitting.

I'll have to check that out. Thanks for the info!

 

[SlowSVT]

I wasn't crazy about how short the MM rack bushings were so I made and extended bushing and made a beefy crush sleeve that's a tight fit inside the K-member.

 

[funmoneypit]

I'll have to check that out. Thanks for the info!

Your welcome, that should take care of your problem.

 

[funmoneypit]

I wasn't crazy about how short the MM rack bushings were so I made and extended bushing and made a beefy crush sleeve that's a tight fit inside the K-member.

You did a nice job!

Correct me if I am wrong but you don't have the spherical joint in there. That is the big advantage of using the MM aluminum bushings. Without the spherical joint you will get more binding if I understand the concept correctly.

 

[mr. b_98GT]

How did you go about reinstalling them? I too am getting the popping feeling. However when I put everything back together it didn't seem like anything was hitting the K member??

Check each aluminum bushing on the bottom towards the k-member. My passenger side was ok but my drivers side was hitting. I took it apart and used a punch and 4 lb hammer to dent that area. It took me three times to finally get it cleared. I did the passenger side for the heck of it. Go out with a flashlight and I bet your drivers side is hitting.

Pretty much what I did. Same side was touching for me too, but did both just to be safe. I tried to see if they were touching with a feeler gauge, but I couldn't tell for sure. I had my wife turn the wheel, and I could see the rack moving at the bushing area against the k. I only did it once though (other than the initial install where I didn't do it cos I thought they weren't touching), used a large screwdriver with a broken tip, and a hammer. Tapped the bottom area below the holes on the k member several times. If the bushings are already on the car, just loosen the rack to pull it out (don't forget the steering shaft bolt), take out the front bushings, leave the long bolts in to keep the rear bushings on there but loose, and you can reach the lower part of the k member easily with either a punch or a long worn out screwdriver. Tap around the lower part of the k under the hole. Then reinstall the front bushings and tigthen it back up.

 

[SlowSVT]

I wasn't crazy about how short the MM rack bushings were so I made and extended bushing and made a beefy crush sleeve that's a tight fit inside the K-member.

You did a nice job!

Correct me if I am wrong but you don't have the spherical joint in there. That is the big advantage of using the MM aluminum bushings. Without the spherical joint you will get more binding if I understand the concept correctly.

A spherical joint can be added if there is a uneven mounting surface on the K-member. Mine didn't need it.

 

[04sleeper]

Great mod for the money! A must IMO.