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2013-14 Shelby GT500
Just did a LT install on a 2013.
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<blockquote data-quote="Yellow Horse" data-source="post: 12514595" data-attributes="member: 2027"><p>The instructions said to remove three screws on the coolant line on the driver's side of the block. Unless your hands are the size of ET's, it is hard to get the screw off the back of the block and even worse, putting it back in because half the opening is now filled with the headers. The instructions tell you to leave the screw out from the tab in the middle of the water line because the screws on the end are more than ample after you are finished. This tab is right in the way of one location and the main reason they instruct you to loosen the line so you can move it. I cut the tab off. You do not need it and it makes getting to the header bolt on that cylinder a lot helluva lot easier.</p><p></p><p>I pulled the motor mounts off my 2010 when I installed Dynatechs. It makes it a lot easier. I could not get the motor mount in/out with the driver's side header in place on the 2013 with Stainless Works headers. I put the motor mount in place with no screws and hung the header and moved it around best I could to help get to the bolts on the header. </p><p></p><p>On the passenger side I was able to take the motor mount in/out with the header in place. The passenger side was a little easier than my 2010. Driver's side, about the same.</p><p></p><p>Dynatech instructions say to remove the steering rack to get the steering linkage off. </p><p></p><p>BS.</p><p></p><p>Go under the dash and remove the (2) 13 mm nuts on the bulkhead plate around the steering shaft. You will need a deep well socket. Very easy step. With these off the steering link will slide right out.</p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p>It will be next week before I crank it. I have a lot of other stuff to install and pretty m uch can only work on it during hte weekend.</p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p>It took me two full days working on the ground. If someone says they can do a set of headers in 4 hours I think they are FOS. I pride myself as being able to turn a wrench with the best mechanics. Aint no way I'm that much slower. I did pull the motor mounts but the easier access to 4 of the screws on the headers more than offsets the additional time to pull the motor mounts. I think 8 hours on a lift would be possible. You are looking at 12-16 hours. Sorry, do not let anybody shit you. Just take your time and spread it out. Break it down into steps.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Yellow Horse, post: 12514595, member: 2027"] The instructions said to remove three screws on the coolant line on the driver's side of the block. Unless your hands are the size of ET's, it is hard to get the screw off the back of the block and even worse, putting it back in because half the opening is now filled with the headers. The instructions tell you to leave the screw out from the tab in the middle of the water line because the screws on the end are more than ample after you are finished. This tab is right in the way of one location and the main reason they instruct you to loosen the line so you can move it. I cut the tab off. You do not need it and it makes getting to the header bolt on that cylinder a lot helluva lot easier. I pulled the motor mounts off my 2010 when I installed Dynatechs. It makes it a lot easier. I could not get the motor mount in/out with the driver's side header in place on the 2013 with Stainless Works headers. I put the motor mount in place with no screws and hung the header and moved it around best I could to help get to the bolts on the header. On the passenger side I was able to take the motor mount in/out with the header in place. The passenger side was a little easier than my 2010. Driver's side, about the same. Dynatech instructions say to remove the steering rack to get the steering linkage off. BS. Go under the dash and remove the (2) 13 mm nuts on the bulkhead plate around the steering shaft. You will need a deep well socket. Very easy step. With these off the steering link will slide right out. It will be next week before I crank it. I have a lot of other stuff to install and pretty m uch can only work on it during hte weekend. It took me two full days working on the ground. If someone says they can do a set of headers in 4 hours I think they are FOS. I pride myself as being able to turn a wrench with the best mechanics. Aint no way I'm that much slower. I did pull the motor mounts but the easier access to 4 of the screws on the headers more than offsets the additional time to pull the motor mounts. I think 8 hours on a lift would be possible. You are looking at 12-16 hours. Sorry, do not let anybody shit you. Just take your time and spread it out. Break it down into steps. [/QUOTE]
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2013-14 Shelby GT500
Just did a LT install on a 2013.
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