Just Blew The Engine Up!

prn1972

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Got the throttle body off
2i7q15c.jpg
 

me32

BEASTLY SHELBY GT500 TVS
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He don't want to hear that. He insists that he is going to rely on 100% meth injection to supplement his fuel system because it's cheaper. So the entire new engine is going to rely on a cheap pump with nozzles squirting in the intake track. Bad idea, but like he said It's his car and his money. :shrug:

If you have a better option please tell me. As I have said I don't have E85 here, wish I did. I liketo drive my car, I don't want to store race fuel/E85 & have to run home every time I need to fill up. Meth injection works, it has pros & cons like anything else. Anything can break or mess up, even a return style fuel system. I just talked to CPRsm about a drop in pump system he is working on to be good for 900-1000whp.

Alky Controls system are not cheap, they are the best quality kits available, running 100% meth isn't cheaper than running a 50/50 mix
And when did I say I was going to do something because it was cheaper?

You said you don't want to spend the money on a return system so obviously the meth is cheaper.

I am glad to see you are slowly coming around and talking with CPR for a fuel option.
I am not saying don't use meth, my issue was with you not having enough actual fuel system to support your power then relying on the meth to make up the difference. That is a blueprint to failure.

The whole reason for my 50/50 suggestion is because then your at least only relying on 50% of the meth solution for fuel so it's still not great but it is safer.

My suggestion here is only meant to help you in the long run, not to bash you. Make sure you have enough fuel system to meet 100% of your power goals, THEN add meth on top of that. At least that way if the meth system fails the regular fuel system can keep it from running lean, and the knock sensors may save you from the detonation of lower octane fuel.

OK, sorry what i meant by that is I don't want to spend that kind of money on a fuel system my car will never need. I will never see 1100+whp. I would like to have around 800whp. So a cheaper drop in system like CRP is working on would be perfect, then I could ditch the BAP & pump duty cycle would be down. If it is possible I would like to try some nitrous just to crack a 1000whp for bragging rights. Plus a bottle would just look cool in the car at shows.
But I get what your saying...I do want it to be safe as possible

The other thing I would like to mention is that I do not beleive the fuel system he was running
Was an issue. I think it may have been the gas or boost due to the fact he now has a windowed blocked. I think it was having detonation issues.

Also I do understand that E85 is not in your area which is fine. But since you are gonna be running pump gas 95% of the time you may want to build a lower comp motor that maybe be able to take a knock or 2 if you happen to have bad gas which this winter blend we have seems to be crap. As I said before don't waste money on meth. Doesn't matter how well you build your motor. If the meth fails and they do alot it will blow the motor before you realize its too late. Your best option would be to run race gas and as a back up in tight situations have torco on hand. Just be wise with your build and your setup. Also alot of tuners do not tune for meth for good reason.
 

olaosunt

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^^Hate to see what mine looks like when I get it apart, my tuner is suppose to take to his shop next week

You could probably get a TVS compressor fairly "cheap" off someone who upgraded to a bigger Whipple.
I had mine for a while but just sold it but I think there are likely others who have the compressor lying around.
 

kyoshosp2

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Ill agree with the fuel system part. but its most likely not what caused it. dont matter if you have a 2500.00 fuel system. The stock parts were just taxed tomuch... Geesh... Who gives a ****. .. We all push the limits once we supercharge it 5lbs or 15 its all more then it should be. Point is we all do it and we all will either get lucky or we will pop it. .. Good luck with your build though.
 

oster910

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Isn't that the truth.

I suggest you wait for a mmr sale and buy a short block
It will get expensive very quickly
Try to salvage or sell as many parts as you can but be honest of condition
My motor went
And I had a local shop build it up he kept the old original oil cooler .... It died a week later
I went to an mmr 1200 very good motors but very pricy
See if you can salvage the heads
Anything helps even the block have it bored out to maybe .20 over
This sucks to see but I don't mean to sound like a smart ass but I'm trying to give advice That would of helped me when my shit was toast
 

prn1972

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We believe a rod just snapped. It's going to the shop Thursday or Friday. So it will be apart in a couple of weeks. I will put pix up when it tore down.
 

JP0814GT

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See if you can salvage the heads
Anything helps even the block have it bored out to maybe .20 over
This sucks to see but I don't mean to sound like a smart ass but I'm trying to give advice That would of helped me when my shit was toast

The only issue i see with this post is advice to bore block .20 over.
There is no benefit in overbore on the Coyote block it actually makes the cyl wall weaker.
With FI you don't need anything weaker.
Buy a new 13-14 block and stay stock bore that way your cyl walls don't loose any thickness.
 

zachcrosen

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it didn't go from 10.5 to 15lbs, the 75mm pulley is suppose to make 10.5lbs but with me tune & set it makes 15lbs. & it is 15lbs instant when you hit the throttle. it let go around 4500rpm where peak torque is. plus it was 30 degrees outside.

Tune was spot on, a/f stay at 11.5-11.6, I have aeroforce interceptor setup to tell me if it gets to lean at 5000rpm up, yes its on 93 pump with 15* timing down low & 13* timing up top.

Block or stock internal just couldn't handle the power, car lasted 6000 miles this way, like I said I knew I was pushing it.

Im seeing the exact same boost numbers thru my setup too! 15#, 75mm pulley and JLT CAI! Im at 664/600 on a dynojet...Justin's dynojet that is. Im starting to get more blue smoke at startup though so I may be on borrowed time as well!!

Ive read that the 75mm pulley is a 10# pulley but Ive also read it is a 13# pulley so I dont really know!
 

CPRsm

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We believe a rod just snapped. It's going to the shop Thursday or Friday. So it will be apart in a couple of weeks. I will put pix up when it tore down.
Oh yeah, just snapping is possible. The exhaust stroke coupled by rpm with no back pressure can be VERY hard on rods.

Clean break. No sign of bending, or bending in any other rods. Ring lands are fine, no torching, no signs of detonation, just BOOM. He had bit less carnage than you. piston was still IN the engine lol. Lucky he was getting out of it as it let go. Lost "only" the block and 4 valves.
image-63.jpg
 

prn1972

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Im seeing the exact same boost numbers thru my setup too! 15#, 75mm pulley and JLT CAI! Im at 664/600 on a dynojet...Justin's dynojet that is. Im starting to get more blue smoke at startup though so I may be on borrowed time as well!!

Ive read that the 75mm pulley is a 10# pulley but Ive also read it is a 13# pulley so I dont really know!
I don't know if the blue smoke means anything or not. Funny thing is I was seeing more & more blue smoke coming out of my breather on my Moroso catch can/breather. So I would take it easy.
 

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