JDM Pinion Snubber Install

Woodsrat

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I'm not a clutch-dropper driver, but other people's problems with cracked differential covers have had me a little paranoid... and it is real easy to get wheel hoppin' on the '03 Cobra. This new JDM piece sounds like it would be pretty effective in reducing axle housing/diff cover stress, and easier to install than the other solutions, so I figured I'd give it a try to prevent a problem in the future. More info on the product is available under the JDM Engineering New Products section.

The unit is a simple, well-made steel bracket which holds a heavy rubber bumper. JDM uses a 10mm nut and no washer to attach the bumper's stud to the bracket. I used a flat washer and Nylock nut instead to prevent vibration from loosening the bumper.

JDM's nine page instruction manual is very clearly written and offers eleven clear photos. Basically, it is overkill for such a simple job.

The manual has you remove the driveshaft (four bolts) for access. However, I was able to install the pinion snubber without removing the driveshaft. There was tight but adequate access by running my arms through just forward of the axle shafts on each side. Might not work for everybody and it might not be easier than removing the driveshaft, but I could slip the Tinnerman clips into place this way. There are a set of holes in the sheetmetal from Ford that look like they were made just for this application. Then I could put the snubber assembly in place and start the bolts by hand. A long 1/4" drive extension, swivel, and 8mm socket are used to tighten the two bolts into the Tinnerman clips.

I must be on a roll for installing stuff without removing parts as per the manual, because the day before I installed a Belltech rear swaybar kit on my '04 Silverado. The instructions called for dropping the gas tank to access the inside of the frame rail to insert a mounting plate with two studs. But I was able to do it without dropping the tank. I just removed the plastic gas tank guard, and I was able to drop the plate inside the frame rail and push it till it fell into place.
 

oldmodman

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Very good write up on the snubber installation. It answered several questions that I had before buying it. Thanks.
 

whtsvt

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Thanks for the write up. How does it perform...did it eliminate wheel hop???? I've been waiting for some feedback before I purchase it.
 

djtyau

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I installed it just last weekend and it wasn't that bad. You might want to consider removing the driveshaft because there is very little room with it in place. The directions even call for this. Another note, the directions didn't take into account the removal of the metal tubing (I believe it is the gas line) so you can tighten the left bolt down. If you go underneath your car you will see what I mean. As far as performance, I don't think you are going to notice a difference. I believe it is just for insurance.
 

FireRed04Vert

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I've mentioned this before and got JDM very upset with me...but here's my thoughts on this. As a former Stock Eliminator racer, I absolutely know the value of a well "tuned" pinion snubber. When set right, there is a lot of et in it...and a lot less stress on the axle. HOWEVER! That is for a straight axle. Here's the deal. A pinion snubber is used to reduce and/or eliminate axle housing rotation. It keeps the pinion angle where you want it and takes the energy that would normally be used in rotating the housing and allows it to go to the wheel. A VERY desirable trait!! But our IRS is already solidly mounted to the body of the car!! It cannot rotate!! There could be some bushing deflection, but that would be minimal and could be avoided completely with better bushings. The rear ends that are breaking the covers are (IMO) breaking them from the stress of the pinion shoving the ring gear and carrier backwards. It stresses the housing and rear cover when that happens and things can break. No pinion snubber in the world will stop that. A brace like the Billetflow is the cure for that. That helps hold the housing together and won't allow it to "spread".

That being said, JDM posted a picture where one of the pumpkins had actually broken a front ear off. It is possible that a pinion snubber could help that situation out. But it is the first and only occurance of that particular break I have seen...and I believe better bushings MAY have been able to prevent that. But honestly, if this were a common problem, I would agree with a pinion snubber...but I just don't see the need at this time. I also cannot see where it would help wheel hop where it is solidly mounted to the body. Use good bushings...that seems to me to be the best solution.
 

LargeOrangeFont

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FireRed04Vert said:
I've mentioned this before and got JDM very upset with me...but here's my thoughts on this. As a former Stock Eliminator racer, I absolutely know the value of a well "tuned" pinion snubber. When set right, there is a lot of et in it...and a lot less stress on the axle. HOWEVER! That is for a straight axle. Here's the deal. A pinion snubber is used to reduce and/or eliminate axle housing rotation. It keeps the pinion angle where you want it and takes the energy that would normally be used in rotating the housing and allows it to go to the wheel. A VERY desirable trait!! But our IRS is already solidly mounted to the body of the car!! It cannot rotate!! There could be some bushing deflection, but that would be minimal and could be avoided completely with better bushings. The rear ends that are breaking the covers are (IMO) breaking them from the stress of the pinion shoving the ring gear and carrier backwards. It stresses the housing and rear cover when that happens and things can break. No pinion snubber in the world will stop that. A brace like the Billetflow is the cure for that. That helps hold the housing together and won't allow it to "spread".

That being said, JDM posted a picture where one of the pumpkins had actually broken a front ear off. It is possible that a pinion snubber could help that situation out. But it is the first and only occurance of that particular break I have seen...and I believe better bushings MAY have been able to prevent that. But honestly, if this were a common problem, I would agree with a pinion snubber...but I just don't see the need at this time. I also cannot see where it would help wheel hop where it is solidly mounted to the body. Use good bushings...that seems to me to be the best solution.


I agree. Don't believe advertising hype!!!
 

mblgjr

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I'm not so sure about it on the IRS.

Especially if you already have the cover brace and foward bushings. If you use metal "bushings" on the foward position, I see even less of a reason to use it.
 

FireRed04Vert

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mblgjr said:
I'm not so sure about it on the IRS.

Especially if you already have the cover brace and foward bushings. If you use metal "bushings" on the foward position, I see even less of a reason to use it.

Exactly. You don't have to go to metal ones either to be safe. The cover brace is for a completely different issue. A very wise investment, but won't do a thing for what is being claimed by the pinion snubber. IMO, your money is better off invested elsewhere. Like bushings....
 

CWD

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Broke mine

When the cover breaks the pumpkin is then free to rotate upwards usually breaking the "ears" off the pumpkin housing as in their photos. Mine broke exactly the same way. The drive shaft also was put in a bind breaking it too! How much flex is there for the pinion snubber to deflect with the cover brace in place?I do not like the aluminum forward torque brace bushings as to me there has to be some "give"...zero deflection sounds good but I went with the polyurethane ones.....Steeda's. :coolman:
 

mblgjr

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I used the Steeda poly's on the front with the Billetflow cover brace. No trouble whatsover. I didn't like the idea of hard mounting the case either.
 

postban

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FireRed04Vert said:
...snip... I also cannot see where it would help wheel hop where it is solidly mounted to the body. Use good bushings...that seems to me to be the best solution.

+1 from me.

I would guess similar results from swapping in aluminum front diff bushings only (little to none)

Way too much squishy rubber in the system to believe one single point of resistance or travel limitation will "cure" hop.
 

slimpickuns

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We'll see! I'm going to the track this afternoon with the JDM snubber and QA1's installed. Billetflow IRS brace as well. I'll be running M/T ET Street Radials(245/17).

My best 60' with the stock (completely stock!) IRS and Nitto 315/17s @16 psi was 1.76

I've also since installed a Line Lock to help heat up the Drag Radials.

Oh, and no poly or delrin or aluminum anything in the rear. Way too much bind and squeak. There needs to be some "give". Just need to control the motion of the rear, not lock it up solid.
 
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FireRed04Vert

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CWD said:
When the cover breaks the pumpkin is then free to rotate upwards usually breaking the "ears" off the pumpkin housing as in their photos. Mine broke exactly the same way. The drive shaft also was put in a bind breaking it too! How much flex is there for the pinion snubber to deflect with the cover brace in place?I do not like the aluminum forward torque brace bushings as to me there has to be some "give"...zero deflection sounds good but I went with the polyurethane ones.....Steeda's. :coolman:

That is correct CWD. When the rear mount breaks like that, the only thing holding it in (basically) is the front ears and they aren't strong enough to support it. A pinion snubber will not save it unless maybe it is mounted dead solid to the snout so it won't allow the back to drop. Better to just use the Billetflow brace and decent bushings because the brace will keep the thing from breaking period. Again, I just see no practical advantage to a pinion snubber on these cars.
 

FireRed04Vert

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slimpickuns said:
We'll see! I'm going to the track this afternoon with the JDM snubber and QA1's installed. Billetflow IRS brace as well. I'll be running M/T ET Street Radials(245/17).

My best 60' with the stock (completely stock!) IRS and Nitto 315/17s @16 psi was 1.76

I've also since installed a Line Lock to help heat up the Drag Radials.

Oh, and no poly or delrin or aluminum anything in the rear. Way too much bind and squeak. There needs to be some "give". Just need to control the motion of the rear, not lock it up solid.

You really don't think that is going to be a test of the snubber do you?? Not even close. You want to test it? Go make two or three passes without it, then bolt it in and make two or three more. Hopefully the track and weather will be the same. Have someone with one of those little weather stations keep track of air density, temp, etc. Most serious racers have one now. Then and only then will you have an accurate test. Even if you find a slight improvement, my point is you will have as much if not more from simple bushing replacement.
 

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