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The Terminator
Exhaust
JBA Shorty headers vs. Long tube headers
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<blockquote data-quote="SlowSVT" data-source="post: 8221055" data-attributes="member: 20202"><p>I've posted on this topic so many times so I just pasted this here to save on the typing</p><p></p><p><em>"Headers of any veriety don't seem to add much power on these cars unless your putting down big numbers. With the amount of mods I am putting in my car kept me looking at the stock maifolds shaking my head. Those things look soo restrictive. I was having a hard time with bolting that back in with the bigger intake, blower and free flow exhaust on my Cobra.</em></p><p><em></em></p><p><em>My plan is to keep this car emission legal which ruled out mid-lenghts and LT. Plus I did not want to deal with clearance issues and scraping. The JBA have a C.A.R.B registration No. and with my JLT catted H-pipe should help get me through a smog test.</em></p><p><em></em></p><p><em>For me the JBA SS shorty headers is the best choice. They need a bit of re-work before you install them to maximize flow and minimize the chance of leaking.</em></p><p><em></em></p><p><em>One thing you need to do is take a die grinder and smooth the area where the exhaust enters the flanges. On the rear most port there is some nasty metal overlap that needs to be ground away which will improve the flow on that port quite a bit. I'm an sure 90% of the guys overlook this and just bolt them on. I'm sure cleaning up the JBA will allow the pipes to make more power them what most people have been measuring. They will also allow you to swap mid-pipes because they mount up just like the stock cast iron manifords. With LT your choice here is rather limited.</em></p><p><em></em></p><p><em>The other problem with the JBA is that the flanges on each port are not level. I put a straight edge across them and measured as much a .025" between them. That is where your future leak will occure. A friend of mine has a 36" diameter disc grinder. I put the flanges across that and ground them till they were level within .005".</em></p><p><em></em></p><p><em>The re-work is a bit of a hassle but at the end of the day you will have a nice set if headers that should be easier to live with.</em></p><p><em></em></p><p><em>JBA won't make as much power as the LT will but they have advantages over the LT and should be considered." </em></p><p></p><p>Part of another post</p><p></p><p><em>"Also I would retain as many of the stock exhaust studs on the GT500 heads as possible. Removing them and installing bolts will increase the likelihood of stretching the aluminum threads in the head which can make your life a nightmare. I was able to retain all but one of the studs on the 4.6.</em></p><p><em></em></p><p><em>The stock exhaust gasket is suppose to be the best but I am going to see how well the fiber gasket seals. The thin metal gasket will conduct more heat back into the head where the fiber gasket should insulate it better. I plan to run it for a few hours then re-torque them even if it means I have to lower the engine on the K-member.</em></p><p><em></em></p><p><em>My understanding is that it's best to cure the ceramic coating in stages so I put them in the oven and heated them up to 200 degrees, then cooled them to, then 300, 400 and so forth."</em></p><p>......and this</p><p></p><p><em>"One big thing you should do regarding fastening the headers to the engine. If you can't retain the factory studs is to install Helicoils where the bolts will be threaded into the aluminum right from the get-go (put 2 of more in if the hole is deep enough). I get scared every time I torque bolts into that stuff due to thread stretch and the inevitable stripping that occurs soon afterwards "</em></p><p>more</p><p></p><p><em>"The JBA’s are also C.A.R.B. approved with a plaque card rived to them stating such. The nice thing as Robert pointed out is they put the mid-pipe flange in the same place as stock which gives lots of options for exhaust combinations."</em></p><p></p><p>I had a set of Hooker LT on my Challenger and they were nothing but a pain in the ass :cuss: </p><p></p><p>Perhap there is something written here you will find useful :beer:</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="SlowSVT, post: 8221055, member: 20202"] I've posted on this topic so many times so I just pasted this here to save on the typing [I]"Headers of any veriety don't seem to add much power on these cars unless your putting down big numbers. With the amount of mods I am putting in my car kept me looking at the stock maifolds shaking my head. Those things look soo restrictive. I was having a hard time with bolting that back in with the bigger intake, blower and free flow exhaust on my Cobra. My plan is to keep this car emission legal which ruled out mid-lenghts and LT. Plus I did not want to deal with clearance issues and scraping. The JBA have a C.A.R.B registration No. and with my JLT catted H-pipe should help get me through a smog test. For me the JBA SS shorty headers is the best choice. They need a bit of re-work before you install them to maximize flow and minimize the chance of leaking. One thing you need to do is take a die grinder and smooth the area where the exhaust enters the flanges. On the rear most port there is some nasty metal overlap that needs to be ground away which will improve the flow on that port quite a bit. I'm an sure 90% of the guys overlook this and just bolt them on. I'm sure cleaning up the JBA will allow the pipes to make more power them what most people have been measuring. They will also allow you to swap mid-pipes because they mount up just like the stock cast iron manifords. With LT your choice here is rather limited. The other problem with the JBA is that the flanges on each port are not level. I put a straight edge across them and measured as much a .025" between them. That is where your future leak will occure. A friend of mine has a 36" diameter disc grinder. I put the flanges across that and ground them till they were level within .005". The re-work is a bit of a hassle but at the end of the day you will have a nice set if headers that should be easier to live with. JBA won't make as much power as the LT will but they have advantages over the LT and should be considered." [/I] Part of another post [I]"Also I would retain as many of the stock exhaust studs on the GT500 heads as possible. Removing them and installing bolts will increase the likelihood of stretching the aluminum threads in the head which can make your life a nightmare. I was able to retain all but one of the studs on the 4.6. The stock exhaust gasket is suppose to be the best but I am going to see how well the fiber gasket seals. The thin metal gasket will conduct more heat back into the head where the fiber gasket should insulate it better. I plan to run it for a few hours then re-torque them even if it means I have to lower the engine on the K-member. My understanding is that it's best to cure the ceramic coating in stages so I put them in the oven and heated them up to 200 degrees, then cooled them to, then 300, 400 and so forth."[/I] ......and this [I]"One big thing you should do regarding fastening the headers to the engine. If you can't retain the factory studs is to install Helicoils where the bolts will be threaded into the aluminum right from the get-go (put 2 of more in if the hole is deep enough). I get scared every time I torque bolts into that stuff due to thread stretch and the inevitable stripping that occurs soon afterwards "[/I] more [I]"The JBA’s are also C.A.R.B. approved with a plaque card rived to them stating such. The nice thing as Robert pointed out is they put the mid-pipe flange in the same place as stock which gives lots of options for exhaust combinations."[/I] I had a set of Hooker LT on my Challenger and they were nothing but a pain in the ass :cuss: Perhap there is something written here you will find useful :beer: [/QUOTE]
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