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SVT Shelby GT500
JBA ceramic shorty vs FRPP thread
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<blockquote data-quote="KingCobra07" data-source="post: 16356596" data-attributes="member: 138178"><p>I decided to start with the install on the passenger side, that being the side the ford racing setup disagreed with my frame rail. </p><p></p><p>Pulled the starter, undid the motor mount on that side, lifted the motor about 3 inches. I then got the remflex gaskets and stage 8 bolts up top in place, and found i had to pull the iron block mount as well, after the photo.</p><p>[ATTACH=full]1620610[/ATTACH] </p><p>Before i went to mount the header up, i put my EGR delete nut cap on the header. I'm guessing it was from the ceramic coating, but it definitely didbt want to go on. Id suggest to thread chase it. I ended up putting some anti seize on the threads then cranked the nut on, 1/2 forwards, 1/4 back each time to help it cut away the ceramic coat. </p><p>[ATTACH=full]1620611[/ATTACH] </p><p></p><p>Then slid the header up and into place. It didnt feel too happy about lining up. After pushing upwards as hard as i could, i got one bolt in on the bottom, with all guide bolts still in the top, it showed me just how far off these flanges were machined. I took the header off the motor and did some head scratching. I quickly came to a solution....</p><p>Pulled out my mad dog bits and got to drilling</p><p>[ATTACH=full]1620612[/ATTACH] </p><p>I upped the holes along the bottom with my 3/8" bit. If i get a chance next time, id probably step it up to 13/32, but after another test fit and some anti seize, i managed to force the header into place and began to tighten the bolts. It was difficult to get them in with the flange holes pressing on them, but i made it happen (Ratcheting 11mm is your friend)</p><p>[ATTACH=full]1620613[/ATTACH] </p><p>I was happy with the torque, top side and bottom, then begun reassembling. Next issue. The header interferes with the iron motor mount. Notice the highlighted area in yellow.</p><p>[ATTACH=full]1620614[/ATTACH] </p><p>I removed then inspected the motor mount</p><p>[ATTACH=full]1620615[/ATTACH] </p><p>I cane to the conclusion it wouldn't be a structural issue to remove some of the material, so i took it to my bench grinders stone.</p><p>[ATTACH=full]1620616[/ATTACH] </p><p>I reassembled it and now we've got some clearance I'm happy with. Torqued it down(, and begun to lower the motor into place with the supplied spacer. From the back it looks like were all clear where the ford racing contacted the rail</p><p>[ATTACH=full]1620617[/ATTACH] </p><p>A look from the front, and we have a slight problem. Luckily, very slight. I decided a dent could be put there where it kisses the rail, or after the driver header goes on, shift the k member a hair.</p><p>[ATTACH=full]1620618[/ATTACH] </p><p>A quick look up top at my killer chiller lines, a little rearranging and some zip ties to come later, and we should be good!</p><p>[ATTACH=full]1620619[/ATTACH] </p><p>I'm going to wait until we have both on to put the lockers on. Do 1 large pass when fitment is 100% and good to go.</p><p></p><p>On a side note, with the bmr k member and the spacer, i has to swap out the 2.5" motor mount bolts i had for 3". No biggie.</p><p></p><p>So final thoughts on passanger side install,</p><p>Would have been great if JBA took the time to make sure their flange matches up with the car the headers are made for, but okay, maybe its a one time mistake...as for the engine mount, it was an easy fix, and a small engine or K shift should alleviate the one runner touching the rail. Or, leave it in place, let them heat up, dent itself, then move it a hair. The choice is yours....</p><p></p><p>Ill post about the driver side tomorrow</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="KingCobra07, post: 16356596, member: 138178"] I decided to start with the install on the passenger side, that being the side the ford racing setup disagreed with my frame rail. Pulled the starter, undid the motor mount on that side, lifted the motor about 3 inches. I then got the remflex gaskets and stage 8 bolts up top in place, and found i had to pull the iron block mount as well, after the photo. [ATTACH=full]1620610[/ATTACH] Before i went to mount the header up, i put my EGR delete nut cap on the header. I'm guessing it was from the ceramic coating, but it definitely didbt want to go on. Id suggest to thread chase it. I ended up putting some anti seize on the threads then cranked the nut on, 1/2 forwards, 1/4 back each time to help it cut away the ceramic coat. [ATTACH=full]1620611[/ATTACH] Then slid the header up and into place. It didnt feel too happy about lining up. After pushing upwards as hard as i could, i got one bolt in on the bottom, with all guide bolts still in the top, it showed me just how far off these flanges were machined. I took the header off the motor and did some head scratching. I quickly came to a solution.... Pulled out my mad dog bits and got to drilling [ATTACH=full]1620612[/ATTACH] I upped the holes along the bottom with my 3/8" bit. If i get a chance next time, id probably step it up to 13/32, but after another test fit and some anti seize, i managed to force the header into place and began to tighten the bolts. It was difficult to get them in with the flange holes pressing on them, but i made it happen (Ratcheting 11mm is your friend) [ATTACH=full]1620613[/ATTACH] I was happy with the torque, top side and bottom, then begun reassembling. Next issue. The header interferes with the iron motor mount. Notice the highlighted area in yellow. [ATTACH=full]1620614[/ATTACH] I removed then inspected the motor mount [ATTACH=full]1620615[/ATTACH] I cane to the conclusion it wouldn't be a structural issue to remove some of the material, so i took it to my bench grinders stone. [ATTACH=full]1620616[/ATTACH] I reassembled it and now we've got some clearance I'm happy with. Torqued it down(, and begun to lower the motor into place with the supplied spacer. From the back it looks like were all clear where the ford racing contacted the rail [ATTACH=full]1620617[/ATTACH] A look from the front, and we have a slight problem. Luckily, very slight. I decided a dent could be put there where it kisses the rail, or after the driver header goes on, shift the k member a hair. [ATTACH=full]1620618[/ATTACH] A quick look up top at my killer chiller lines, a little rearranging and some zip ties to come later, and we should be good! [ATTACH=full]1620619[/ATTACH] I'm going to wait until we have both on to put the lockers on. Do 1 large pass when fitment is 100% and good to go. On a side note, with the bmr k member and the spacer, i has to swap out the 2.5" motor mount bolts i had for 3". No biggie. So final thoughts on passanger side install, Would have been great if JBA took the time to make sure their flange matches up with the car the headers are made for, but okay, maybe its a one time mistake...as for the engine mount, it was an easy fix, and a small engine or K shift should alleviate the one runner touching the rail. Or, leave it in place, let them heat up, dent itself, then move it a hair. The choice is yours.... Ill post about the driver side tomorrow [/QUOTE]
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