Damn! That woulda got my adrenaline going. How's the new bushings holding up to all that?
Its been awhile but here are my most recent mods
- Thread starter SVT_Troy
- Start date
I had an amazing time and the sway didn’t feel bad at all. I felt it and just stayed in it nice and straight from what I recall. I guess if you ere to freak out and try to correct that could be a problem. The video makes it seem worse than it felt.
Thanks for asking about the bushings, I actually forgot to check. I just looked at them and the uppers look brand new. I’d have to jack it up to check the lowers. I’ll wait until I get some street miles as well before I judge.
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Added the time slip to the video post for you. Let me know what you think.
After attending the track a couple times this year I am sick and tired of dealing with the bumper nuts so i decided to get alittle destructive and install quick-latch push buttons. I am happy with them and cant wait to try them out next season!
IMG_7508
Here's a link to a quick how-to i wrote up since I thought it should be in the correct section in a new thread.
https://www.svtperformance.com/threads/front-bumper-quik-latch-install.1168586/
Here's a link to a quick how-to i wrote up since I thought it should be in the correct section in a new thread.
https://www.svtperformance.com/threads/front-bumper-quik-latch-install.1168586/
Did you paint the buttons or is that the black they come in, nice work dude.
I bought them like that. They come in two colors that I know about, anodized black and silver.
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Looks good Troy. Man those have come a long way. I remember something like those on import cars 10-15 years ago. always seemed wonkie and the fit was usually garbage.
My buddy uses a slightly bigger version of these on his hood, and they look great. No more of that 70's look.
My buddy uses a slightly bigger version of these on his hood, and they look great. No more of that 70's look.
That's where my $$ is too. Mine has done this same damn thing a couple diff times. Go thru their procedure for reinstalling the firmware then adjust your TPS voltage a little higher....see if that helps in case you haven't already figured it out.
I haven’t figured it out yet since that was the last tike I’ve ran the car. It doesn’t bog or do anything weird on the street from what I can tell. On the launch at the track is where I’ve noticed it and it can be seen in the data log as well. I’ll dig into more next year.
Oh and I always check the firmware and perform updated for the WOT box and my SCR before going to the track. I’ll check it again next year before testing. Thanks for the tip.
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Hmmmm I see. Ok...mine acts similar....but different when it acts up. So if I roll into the throttle quick on the street but not entirely matting it, the ignition cuts just as if you have activated the no lift shift feature of the box. Except I haven't. Haven't touched the clutch. Haven't reached the TPS threshold. Nothing. I've messed around with it each time and managed to get it working again. I've had it for over 10 years and just recently has it acted up a couple times. But I still say you will find your problem in the WOT box. Def let us know what you find 
I finally got around to starting my winter mods today.
-Metco 4lb lower
- Innovators west balancer for Metco lower
-ID1300's (still have to buy)
MD Racing crusher intake (still have to buy)
I picked up a used innovators west balancer and actually got lucky since it had the Super Duty Hub. I actually didn't know it was even an option. The SD hub is recommended for 750RWHP+ and is thicker which they claim helps protect the hub from cracking.
Stock is 1.875" and this one is 2.008". It requires a new crank timing cover seal with a larger ID to accommodate the SD hub. You can see the part # below. Look up this part# and you'll save some cash since Innovators West charges a premium for this "special seal" which is really just a basic national seal. I think i paid $5 through rock auto....
National 481195
IMG_8122
IMG_2160
It also requires a longer bolt so my old ARP will be sold with the old balancer. I just ordered a new ARP bolt. A special washer comes with the new innovators west balancer as you can see on the longer bolt.
IMG_5443
-Metco 4lb lower
- Innovators west balancer for Metco lower
-ID1300's (still have to buy)
MD Racing crusher intake (still have to buy)
I picked up a used innovators west balancer and actually got lucky since it had the Super Duty Hub. I actually didn't know it was even an option. The SD hub is recommended for 750RWHP+ and is thicker which they claim helps protect the hub from cracking.
Stock is 1.875" and this one is 2.008". It requires a new crank timing cover seal with a larger ID to accommodate the SD hub. You can see the part # below. Look up this part# and you'll save some cash since Innovators West charges a premium for this "special seal" which is really just a basic national seal. I think i paid $5 through rock auto....
National 481195
It also requires a longer bolt so my old ARP will be sold with the old balancer. I just ordered a new ARP bolt. A special washer comes with the new innovators west balancer as you can see on the longer bolt.
Whats the advantage of the balancer swap?
+1 would also like to know.
Been looking at anything that will help when I put the 3.0 pulley(5 more #'s) on. Going auto so that should help some and looking at the whipple adjustable tension-er.
I also need to go bigger injectors looking at the 1700 though.
What's a couple more dollars.
The old balancer was just an OEM replacement. New balancer is needed to run the Metco lower.
--Joe
--Joe
This
If you want to run a metco lower with aftermarket harmonic balancer you’ll need one like this to accept metco rings. I wish I went this route from the start. I let the snapped crank hype deter me from going this route which I believe to be better. No more belt slip and I can’t explain it but cars with lower tend to make more torque.
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GOt it! Good deal.
Do you know if it's possible to run the metco lower with a ATI harmonic balancer? I recently purchased the ATI 918044 but hearing everything said here makes me question if I should return and go the innovator west route.
Edit: It looks like if I go with an ATI balancer I should have gotten the ATI 918036 instead of the 918044 if I want to use the metco lower kit... If someone can confirm, that would be great.
Edit 2: I just got off the horn with ATI and they were very helpful. They said the only difference in balancers would be the hub.
More in depth, the 044 hub is threaded for the factory cage assembly where as the 036 has no threads.
The gentleman who helped me confirmed what I also was thinking. The idea being that since I purchased the 044 option, now I have the choice to run either the factory support or your Metco kit because the Metco doesn't rely on the threading at all.
All in all, ATI said they see no reason why the ATI 918044 would not also work with the Metco kit.
I hope this information helps someone in the future.
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So Troy, what is your current IC/HE setup? I didnt see an update past page 7 when you were deciding about which pump to use.
They make more torque because the belt isn't slipping..
I haven’t changed it yet. I have a bunch of parts but haven’t decided on which route I want to take with it just yet.
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