Is this clutch chatter, or what? Mcleod RXT

ShiftyThePirate

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So I've had the Mcleod RXT in for about 2 months now, however I notice if I take off at about 1000-1200rpms (like in traffic moving slowly) the car at times will shudder and at other times a "bang" will come from the rear of the car, and it seems like the wheels "hop", I'll instantly push the clutch back in because it freaks me out, then let it out and just continue going.

If I add 400-500 more revs, then it does not chatter, I just spin tires from every stop. Letting it out slower seems to make the car shudder more when giving it just a little gas, just using the clutch to pull the car does not cause shuddering what so ever.

When it does shudder it rocks the whole car, and as I said at times when starting off with just about 1000-1100rpms of power, it shudders, then at times bangs at the rear of the car, and it feels as if there is "wheel hop" which is weird.

Now, if I give it more power (more than I need esp when moving up 1-2 cars) it will not do this.

Is this clutch chatter, and what am I doing wrong? Not enough gas? I'm at about 1500 miles on the new clutch, maybe 2000.

Thanks, I'm hoping it's nothing major as I'd hate to have to have Ford take it apart and re-adjust everything. Should point out I only get this chatter when starting at lower rpms, and when reversing at lower rpms. With higher rpms, it is smoother, but I feel like I'm giving it more power than it needs, just to avoid chatter, though by all means correct me guys.
 
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Booky

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So I've had the Mcleod RXT in for about 2 months now, however I notice if I take off at about 1000-1200rpms (like in traffic moving slowly) the car at times will shudder and at other times a "bang" will come from the rear of the car, and it seems like the wheels "hop", I'll instantly push the clutch back in because it freaks me out, then let it out and just continue going.

If I add 400-500 more revs, then it does not chatter, I just spin tires from every stop. Letting it out slower seems to make the car shudder more when giving it just a little gas, just using the clutch to pull the car does not cause shuddering what so ever.

When it does shudder it rocks the whole car, and as I said at times when starting off with just about 1000-1100rpms of power, it shudders, then at times bangs at the rear of the car, and it feels as if there is "wheel hop" which is weird.

Now, if I give it more power (more than I need esp when moving up 1-2 cars) it will not do this.

Is this clutch chatter, and what am I doing wrong? Not enough gas? I'm at about 1500 miles on the new clutch, maybe 2000.

Thanks, I'm hoping it's nothing major as I'd hate to have to have Ford take it apart and re-adjust everything. Should point out I only get this chatter when starting at lower rpms, and when reversing at lower rpms. With higher rpms, it is smoother, but I feel like I'm giving it more power than it needs, just to avoid chatter, though by all means correct me guys.


I had the Spec SS twin disc installed a few months ago and mine has the same shudder at low rpm take off.

It has got better as I put the miles on it, but it is still there.

I have to bring the rpms up around 1500 rpms then let the clutch out just right.

If I let the clutch out too quick the car will jerk forward, if you are too slow the car starts to shudder.

It really makes you feel special when you are in heavy stop and go traffic and you look like a fool revving the engine and hopping the car. :nonono:

From what I have been told and what I have read, this is typical for a high torque twin disc clutch's.

A few people say their aftermarket twin disc clutch is easier to drive then the OEM and the clutch is smooooooooooooooth as butter, but usually you find out later they sell those same clutches. ;-)
 

GT500RedStripe

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Did you follow the break-in procedure using city miles? I had a warped pressure plate on my RXT and they replaced it for free back in 2013.

RXT and strait edge.jpg
 

ShiftyThePirate

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Did you follow the break-in procedure using city miles? I had a warped pressure plate on my RXT and they replaced it for free back in 2013.

View attachment 52862

Yup I did. So yours do not chatter at all like this? Also Booky, yeah I always heard the Spec's chattered a lot compared to the Mcleods, that's why I am confused as to why my Mcleod is chattering. I'll try giving it a bit more rpms every start and see if that fully prevents it. I'm guessing I will have to get it checked out though as I thought the Mcleod was supposed to be chatter-free like the stock clutch.
 

wingsnut

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A few people say their aftermarket twin disc clutch is easier to drive then the OEM and the clutch is smooooooooooooooth as butter, but usually you find out later they sell those same clutches. ;-)

I don't sell clutches or anything else for that matter and my RXT is butter smooth, been that way since the day I installed it. Now.....the SPEC SS it replaced was junk from day one, never could let that clutch out without shaking or noises. Both were installed by me with all new parts each time so I don't think it was an installation issue.
Chip
 

black99lightnin

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I don't sell clutches or anything else for that matter and my RXT is butter smooth, been that way since the day I installed it. Now.....the SPEC SS it replaced was junk from day one, never could let that clutch out without shaking or noises. Both were installed by me with all new parts each time so I don't think it was an installation issue.
Chip

That's good to know.

What RXT, there seems to be several to choose or am I looking at something wrong?
 

Joewee500

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My rxt doesn't do that. It's quieter than the stock one it replaced. I've got about 1000 miles on it and it's getting smoother every drive.
 

ShiftyThePirate

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That's good to know.

What RXT, there seems to be several to choose or am I looking at something wrong?

I have the Twin Disc RXT as well. The modular one that is made for the 2010+ GT-500s. Re-uses factory fly-wheel, but just bolts to it. Even so I still had my fly-wheel resurfaced to be safe. Still chatter! :fm: my stock didn't chatter at all, just had an awful engagement point (all the way up)
 

Booky

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I don't sell clutches or anything else for that matter and my RXT is butter smooth, been that way since the day I installed it. Now.....the SPEC SS it replaced was junk from day one, never could let that clutch out without shaking or noises. Both were installed by me with all new parts each time so I don't think it was an installation issue.
Chip

It is interesting that you post how Great the RXT has been in this thread, but posted this before:

I went with a McCleod RXT. The car had been a pure joy to drive from the time of the RXT install until I got it out for the first time this year a few weeks ago. When the car is cold everything is great. After a few miles of driving the clutch pedal feels like it is sticking right as the clutch is engaging. Just not smooth. This happens mostly on take-off in first gear, but I do feel it a little up through the gears. It doesn't do this every time, I'd say 50% of the time. With the car running and in nuetral I can feel a slight engagement while pushing the pedal in and out, I believe this is normal. As soon as I put the car in gear and start releasing the pedal I feel the pedal catch. Sometimes it is bad enough that I can hear something in the drive train clunk slightly. It makes for a miserable driving experience.
 

black99lightnin

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I have the Twin Disc RXT as well. The modular one that is made for the 2010+ GT-500s. Re-uses factory fly-wheel, but just bolts to it. Even so I still had my fly-wheel resurfaced to be safe. Still chatter! :fm: my stock didn't chatter at all, just had an awful engagement point (all the way up)

Mine too. Stock replacement with maybe 5K miles on it.
 

wingsnut

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It is interesting that you post how Great the RXT has been in this thread, but posted this before:

Nothing funny about it.
Go back and read the last post I made in that thread where it explains that I found that the clutch fluid line was leaking at the connection on the transmission.
Replacing the O-rings on the clutch fluid line solved my issue. It had nothing to do with the clutch itself. Mine is butter smooth. Way better than the stock or the Spec SS.
Chip
 

ponyboy96

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Mine chatters too. 2010+ modular McCloud. I've thought about buying another stock clutch to replace it with. If it wasn't such a pita to replace I would.

Why ford doesn't have a detachable bell housing like gm does with their t-56 is beyond me. I could have an fbody tranny out in about 45mins. This trans took hours and hours to do.
 
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builttodrive

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After my TSB update clutch started slipping I installed the McCleod RXT with heavy Flywheel. Initially I liked it much better over my stock replacement. The pedal feel was much lighter and smoother. My stock clutch had some chatter and in the beginning the McCleod didn't have any. I now have about 5K on it and it has developed some chatter and depends on temperature and I'm sure other factors but acts different at different times and hard to get used to. What I do like about it is that it holds the power no problem where the TSB update one slipped. I also don't drive the car daily either.
 
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ShelbyGT5HUN

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On one of my past race cars, I had a hi-per clutch. The only way around the chatter, same as what Shifty was describing, was to rev it more and slip it more from a dead stop, to eliminate the chatter, or do nothing and just deal with it. It would clang and bang really bad in reverse though!

I think some chatter goes with the territory of a hi-per clutch. YMMV.
 

whiplash920

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I have the rxt for 2010 and up and it performs well most of the time, but sometimes there is chatter taking off. I have found if I just slow down a little and 'feel the car' and think less it is smooth. It's weird, sometimes I think it's me, other times the clutch.....Good thing is it holds the power...I'm about 700whp.
 

Tight Lines

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Nothing funny about it.
Go back and read the last post I made in that thread where it explains that I found that the clutch fluid line was leaking at the connection on the transmission.
Replacing the O-rings on the clutch fluid line solved my issue. It had nothing to do with the clutch itself. Mine is butter smooth. Way better than the stock or the Spec SS.
Chip

Can you link this thread?
 

ShelbyGT5HUN

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Does Ford recommend changing the o-rings once you take it apart? Seems like a wise idea to swap them out. Once an o-ring is seated, it never really gets back to its original shape or position, then can leak!
 

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