I have a pullied vert putting around out 470 RWHP. The car is a low mileage (11K) 10th anniversary and pretty stock. Is it worth putting MM full length frame connectors on? Welding on a 11K mile car seems so wrong, but so does chassis flex!
is adding weld on subframe connectors on a Convertible worth it?
- Thread starter jserr68594
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I already own a set of the MM full length subframe connectors new in the box. Is the brand you mentioned worth discarding the MM kit or is the MM kit worthwhile?
I did the full Stifflers set up on my coupe a a noticed a difference. I like the jacking rail set up.
Go for the MM install, no brainer.
This is one of the few mods you will instantly feel once you do it. It is by far one of the best mods I've done to my car. Totally worth it.
Just make sure that the job is done while the car is on it's wheels is the only extra advice I know to dispense.
The other thing you will gain is a jacking rail that goes the length of the car.
Just make sure that the job is done while the car is on it's wheels is the only extra advice I know to dispense.
The other thing you will gain is a jacking rail that goes the length of the car.
I have the MM SFCs on my Mach and it was an obvious difference, the jacking rails would have been nice in hindsight
For those on the fence....
Subframe connectors were one of the first things I did to my 01 Cobra. It had about 50K on it when I did that. My 04 had around 100K when it finally got it's first set of SFC's. The interior of my 01 was noticeably quieter than my 04. I think it's because of all of the flexing the 04 did over time.
Subframe connectors were one of the first things I did to my 01 Cobra. It had about 50K on it when I did that. My 04 had around 100K when it finally got it's first set of SFC's. The interior of my 01 was noticeably quieter than my 04. I think it's because of all of the flexing the 04 did over time.
the factory subframe connectors are thin material, MM and stifflers will actually give support. I cant see why you couldnt just order the jacking rail kit to add to your MM connectors?
Good advise on having the car wt on its wheels, ie drive on lift. Have the doors closed and the top up and latched. One of the best mods for all body styles.
Some cars may need the carpet pulled up to avoid burning or a fire. Ground the car as close to the weld as possible. You can disconnect the car battery, just to be extra careful. Nothing beats a couple of trial fits, cleaning the weld area and having a jack holding the connecters in place.
Some cars may need the carpet pulled up to avoid burning or a fire. Ground the car as close to the weld as possible. You can disconnect the car battery, just to be extra careful. Nothing beats a couple of trial fits, cleaning the weld area and having a jack holding the connecters in place.
Well worth adding them-I started with just the MM subframes and it made a instantly noticeable difference. After a year or so added the stifflers jacking rails, web brace and spider brace. Some of the best mods I’ve done, wish I had done them earlier.
I would go directly to jacking rails on an SN95. Those spiny box section sub-frames won't stiffen the chassis (especially in a vert) like jacking rails which are substantially beefier. What most people feel in the way of stiffness is the drivers seat mounted to the sheet metal floor board is suddenly reinforced by the sub-frame directly blow it.
The trellis framed Hans Racecraft (if you can get them) are my favorites followed by Global West and Stiffers.
Another great thing about jacking rails is the car won't care where it gets lifted from. Before the Hans I could see the chassis flexing in my coup when you put a floor jack to it. Now the whole side of the car comes up at once. I can't stand wet noodle chassis especially one with 600 ft bs torque monster multiplied thru a transmission connected to it.
Don't forget to weld "weight on the wheels" or your doors won't close. Postban found that out the hard way and had to cut them out and re-weld.
The trellis framed Hans Racecraft (if you can get them) are my favorites followed by Global West and Stiffers.
Another great thing about jacking rails is the car won't care where it gets lifted from. Before the Hans I could see the chassis flexing in my coup when you put a floor jack to it. Now the whole side of the car comes up at once. I can't stand wet noodle chassis especially one with 600 ft bs torque monster multiplied thru a transmission connected to it.
Don't forget to weld "weight on the wheels" or your doors won't close. Postban found that out the hard way and had to cut them out and re-weld.
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