is 300 rwhp attainable with this combo?

4vTRMach1

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I wanted the V-3 unit that is self contained. It seemed like the easiest route. I couldn't find any used V-3s local to me but new I know they are around 4-5k for the V-3, not counting injectors, tune, BAP or aftermarket pump, and everything else I would need. I have less than that in this engine, and I wanted to keep it N/A. 460 RWHP is about the limit, even with a good tune, you can push a cast 4.6 4v bottom end. So if I wanted to make similar power to yours reliably I would also need to factor in the cost of a forged rotating assembly (close to another additional 2k). It is cool you have a Auto mach 1 too. I have one, mine is an 03 Torch red auto, I bought it for $5500 with 73,985 miles on it.
 

4vTRMach1

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Even though you did all those mods, you engine can only pull in so much air by itself regardless... Adding more duration cam actually probably hurt the horsepower more than anything. Loosing dynamic compression and you stayed with stock compression. "Why you don't really add big duration cams to stock motors. static maybe 9:1 but now you changed cams and your dynamic compression dropped to 8:1 or 7.5 :1 ( example) " = loosing horsepower on N/a motor / unless you have supporting mods / bump in compression ect.... everything needs to work together, not just slap parts on because people said they add XXX amount of horsepower cause of this part... Not like you're reving that motor out to 7-8k rpms. Just my opinion and every motor is different also, I've tried numerous cams on "stock compression" n/a motors, never really any gain unless you've bumped the compression and bunch of other stuff. and or you lose your low to mid torque curve.
My heads have been shaved, and you get a slight increase in dynamic compression having a larger bore from being bored .020 like me, it might be near immeasurable but it is a definite increase. My heads were not shaved much though. My heads had the exhaust ports ported pretty well too, and the valve bowl area was cleaned up to unshroud the valves too, the intake ports were just cleaned up enough to remove the casting flash, no enlarging. That being said, I have seen numerous stock 4.6 4vs pick up anywhere from 10-20 RWHP with JUST 96-98 cobra intake cams (depending on if they are degreed or not) they do work, but from what I have read you are going to sacrifice some low end from them. It wont matter much in my application though, I'm running 4.10s and a 3200 stall.
 

01blckcobra

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Yeah, maybe.. .1+/- in compression bump with .020. That's probably being nice. It's hard to say, every dyno is different. 10-20rwhp sound like a margin of error to me. Weather change does that for me. I never really cared about horsepower numbers, always went by how the car felt and what the track says. Change a part and see wtf happens. I had an 02 crown vic and 01 cobra. Only thing that seemed to be worth any improvement was the 4:10 gears. With just a gear change the Vic went from 15.3's 1/4 to 14.00s-13.9s. About the same with the 01 cobra. 13.4-6's to 13.0s-12.9s . Added a 75shot to the 01 and get it running 12.3s-12.4s. Only mods that paid from themselves. Tried all the "Big" TB, Porting, Cams, ect..... "Maybe" a .1 out of the them. Not worth the cost. imo

But anyways, Be cool you see what you're car does at the track. Give you your real answer.
 

4vTRMach1

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Yeah, maybe.. .1+/- in compression bump with .020. That's probably being nice. It's hard to say, every dyno is different. 10-20rwhp sound like a margin of error to me. Weather change does that for me. I never really cared about horsepower numbers, always went by how the car felt and what the track says. Change a part and see wtf happens. I had an 02 crown vic and 01 cobra. Only thing that seemed to be worth any improvement was the 4:10 gears. With just a gear change the Vic went from 15.3's 1/4 to 14.00s-13.9s. About the same with the 01 cobra. 13.4-6's to 13.0s-12.9s . Added a 75shot to the 01 and get it running 12.3s-12.4s. Only mods that paid from themselves. Tried all the "Big" TB, Porting, Cams, ect..... "Maybe" a .1 out of the them. Not worth the cost. imo

But anyways, Be cool you see what you're car does at the track. Give you your real answer.
I agree 100%. The 99-01 cobra is a great car btw I always wanted one. I have the 97 mark viii, 03 mach 1, a heads/cam 1985 GT, and a 2 other project cars, maybe once those are where they need to be ill look into buying one or a termi. I would have gone supercharged if the Mark 8 didn't already need a engine rebuild. It got overheated and started ticking real bad from top end. I took the passenger side valve over off and found 2 chewed up cam lobes ( 1 on intake cam, 1 on exhaust cam) when engine was tore down it had piston slap and 2 bent rods too. So needless to say rebuilding it was pretty much my only option. +1 on the 4.10s being a big difference, when my mark 8 was still healthy I did 4.10s, track lock, aluminum 1 pc. driveshaft, and poly diff bushings all at the same time and that made a nice improvement in acceleration for me.
 

decipha

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see break down

+2hp Block bored .020 over
+7hp Heads resurfaced w/ 3 Angle valve job
+0hp Factory style .020 pistons with 3cc dish
+0hp Factory powdered metal rods
+0hp Factory cast 6 Bolt crank
-2hp Mild casting flash removal on intake ports
+8hp valve bowl area ported, exhaust ports have some mild cleanup as well
+2hp Ford FR500 supercar followers
+12hp 96-98 Cobra Intake Manifold (Upper divider removed for single blade TB, Lower intake is ported too)
-0hp MMR IMRC Deletes
+9hp 96-98 cobra intake cams (un-degreed)
+2hp JLT 96-98 Cobra CAI
+0hp Accufab elipse single blade TB
+17hp Kooks 3/4 Length Mark VIII headers

+0hp Car is running a 4.10 gear & had a T lock unit installed from a mustang GT

Transmission:
Stock 4r70W
+0hp (have 3400 stall, trans cooler, and j mod waiting to go in after engine is tuned and running properly)

Obviously the only way to tell what it will make is to put it on a dyno.
-incorrect, dynos approximate hp based on info given. The only way to accurately know the ACTUAL hp is a 1/4 mile pass. HP is a measurement of time distance and weight.

Based on your guys experience, what should this combo make to the rear wheels? Thanks in advance for your input.

+57hp more than a stocker IF everything is PERFECT

If everything is right and dialed in correct tune wise I would expect about ~282rwhp.

Should have gone with a 4200 stall and Id recommend tossing the converter in now so they can dial it in too otherwise you may not like the way it feels afterwards when you do eventually swap it.
 

4vTRMach1

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see break down

+2hp Block bored .020 over
+7hp Heads resurfaced w/ 3 Angle valve job
+0hp Factory style .020 pistons with 3cc dish
+0hp Factory powdered metal rods
+0hp Factory cast 6 Bolt crank
-2hp Mild casting flash removal on intake ports
+8hp valve bowl area ported, exhaust ports have some mild cleanup as well
+2hp Ford FR500 supercar followers
+12hp 96-98 Cobra Intake Manifold (Upper divider removed for single blade TB, Lower intake is ported too)
-0hp MMR IMRC Deletes
+9hp 96-98 cobra intake cams (un-degreed)
+2hp JLT 96-98 Cobra CAI
+0hp Accufab elipse single blade TB
+17hp Kooks 3/4 Length Mark VIII headers

+0hp Car is running a 4.10 gear & had a T lock unit installed from a mustang GT

Transmission:
Stock 4r70W
+0hp (have 3400 stall, trans cooler, and j mod waiting to go in after engine is tuned and running properly)

Obviously the only way to tell what it will make is to put it on a dyno.
-incorrect, dynos approximate hp based on info given. The only way to accurately know the ACTUAL hp is a 1/4 mile pass. HP is a measurement of time distance and weight.

Based on your guys experience, what should this combo make to the rear wheels? Thanks in advance for your input.

+57hp more than a stocker IF everything is PERFECT

If everything is right and dialed in correct tune wise I would expect about ~282rwhp.

Should have gone with a 4200 stall and Id recommend tossing the converter in now so they can dial it in too otherwise you may not like the way it feels afterwards when you do eventually swap it.
I realize you can calculate a cars rwhp based off of the trap speed of an ET lol. We will see, I still think 282 rwhp is doable as a minimum. IMRC deletes are also dyno proven to add HP at high RPMS if you sacrifice low end torque by installing them. And the Accufab TB is definitely worth around 5 RWHP even on a stock n/a car from what I have personally seen from test results from multiple dynos. I think 12hp is a bit low for the cobra intake too. 3200 Stall should be fine too, I realize a 4200 would have probably been a little bit better, but probably not worth much off of my ET vs the 3200. Everything else you said is pretty much spot on from what I have seen though. Thank you for your opinion and insight. Cant wait to see what car makes once I get it dyno tuned. I appreciate your reply.
 

01blckcobra

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Hmm, Good read but, the "Dyno test" are bs imo. Wasn't same conditions..... felt like "stock" is used loosely. When did "stock" mustangs come with LT Headers? ect... lol Good read though for the most part. Installing any cam right instead of drop in, (degreeing) is always going to be the best. Would like to see a set of stock cams degreed vs the 96-98 cams degreed. what the results be then. Just curious. maybe its out there but didn't find it.
 
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4vTRMach1

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Their are a bunch of other tests showing an obvious HP gain with those cams. Ask NASVT what he thinks about the 96-98 cams making HP. Obviously a set of aftermarket cams are much better, but on a budget 4V these cams are worth an easy 15-20 rwhp.
 

4vTRMach1

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Hmm, Good read but, the "Dyno test" are bs imo. Wasn't same conditions..... felt like "stock" is used loosely. When did "stock" mustangs come with LT Headers? ect... lol Good read though for the most part. Installing any cam right instead of drop in, (degreeing) is always going to be the best. Would like to see a set of stock cams degreed vs the 96-98 cams degreed. what the results be then. Just curious. maybe its out there but didn't find it.
Removing Valve Covers and Installing Cobra Cams - A Complete How To With Pics - 2003-04 Mach 1 Registry Owners Club

This is a UN-degreed cam swap
 

blownstang4.6

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I wanted the V-3 unit that is self contained. It seemed like the easiest route. I couldn't find any used V-3s local to me but new I know they are around 4-5k for the V-3, not counting injectors, tune, BAP or aftermarket pump, and everything else I would need. I have less than that in this engine, and I wanted to keep it N/A. 460 RWHP is about the limit, even with a good tune, you can push a cast 4.6 4v bottom end. So if I wanted to make similar power to yours reliably I would also need to factor in the cost of a forged rotating assembly (close to another additional 2k). It is cool you have a Auto mach 1 too. I have one, mine is an 03 Torch red auto, I bought it for $5500 with 73,985 miles on it.

Mine is on the stock motor. If you have a good tune it will last as long as you're not taking it to 6500rpm at every stop light. I don't know where you were looking but a non intercooled V3 with injectors and pump can be had for $3500 new. If youd want an intercooler it be about another $1000 for piping kit, cxracing 4 core or better Treadstone intercooler, quality bypass/blow off valve, and a blow thru maf. If you sourced used parts it would be cheaper. Wideband gauge, boost gauge, handheld programmer and tune another $1150.
 

shurur

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4vTRMach1

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My mach 1 & my 85 Fox are having a couple issues right now. Mark 8 is on hold. I have the mark 8 running much better now though, and plan on finishing it soon so I can get it on the dyno
 

decipha

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shurer's numbers are severely incorrect

keep in mind a stock b headed cobra only makes 250rwhp

350rwhp n/a takes ported heads and alot of money
 

shurur

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shurer's numbers are severely incorrect

keep in mind a stock b headed cobra only makes 250rwhp

350rwhp n/a takes ported heads and alot of money

350 is with cams...AND there are better cams now through na svt and I mean NOW..

If you want, you can take it up with Todd Warren AKA na svt

i.e. you are severely wrong.

Feel free to PM na svt...or not.

BTW..you are really in the wrong forum to learn anything..
There is a SN95 cobra forum.

https://www.svtperformance.com/threads/340-to-360rwhp.1167014/#post-16042119
 
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4vTRMach1

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I have for sure seen stock 96-98 B headed Cobras dyno higher than 250 rwhp bone stock also. Pretty sure the highest I have seen is 268 RWHP with stock air filter and everything. Keep in mind the heads on my car also have quite of bit of work done to them, and I'm also running the 96-98 cams with 204 Degrees of duration vs the stock mark 8 cams which only have 184 degrees. Like I said, when the car is road worthy I WILL dyno it and report back my results no matter what they are.
 

01blckcobra

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Just don't understand all the work and money for little "maybe 20hp". Also now you've moved the curve. So now you gain 20-30hp above 6-6500rpms? Loose 20-30hp at 2500-5k? How's the stock engine handling that? Float springs / valves and what not, unless you upgraded them.
Just add a 75 - 125 shot, she'll take it all day long. fuel system good to 125shot. Same price nearly as cam swap. less work.

Definitely curious to see. It's probably not going to read to well on a dyno. Better results taking it to the track. lol Cheaper also.
 

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