Interesting question for you fellow Terminator owners...

[UnrealSVT]

Kinda strange question, but how many creature comforts have you lost at a higher power level? Let's say around 800-900 wheel? As far as daily driveability? Clunky noises, handling vibrations? I'm trying to stay away from solid motor mounts etc for this reason...

I have a full Fore fuel system with twin 465s and ID1300 injectors. Gen 3 Whipple 3.4 Crusher. 1 7/8 Headers, Subframe connectors. C/C plates. H&R race springs. Getting the FTBR full bushing kit, bumpsteers and end links. Ford racing diff (milled) with IRS lowering mount. G Force half shafts. Stock 3.55 gear ratio...etc.

26 spline input, McLeod RXT1200 clutch with goodies, mgw shifter...i will upgrade to a magnum if/when the t56 takes a shit...

All of these items still boxed and brand new. And a TON more parts I'm sure I'm forgetting to mention.

I also want to do a brake kit upgrade, I have arp2000 head bolts. Stock block. FULL TIME E85 setup (23-25+ psi)...

I'm most concerned about my awesome 7,000 mile Cobra turning into an annoying, clunky funny car if you will.

Yes, I know some creature comforts and driveability WILL BE compromised...but I'm not much of a drag racer and won't be doing a ton of hard launches.

I do alot of highway driving and really like the runway events. I like high end pulls, and want to stay twin screw while keeping up with turbo supras and GTRs...

I want to remain 6 speed and IRS. And again, I would seldom be doing insane clutch dumps or banging gears down the track. I like driving on the windy roads every now and again, and love the 60+ pulls...

■Not looking to be flamed for my choice of blower, or stock block setup. Want to do something a bit different, and this will later be a built block...■

...simply asking about when my car will stop feeling like a decent handling and cruising terminator, and start turning into a not so streetable racecar. And I'm up for advice and suggestions from people at this power level.

Thanks

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[roy_1031]

Your HP level isn't going to determine the NVH as much as your suspension mods are. My car made over 700 and drives and idles better than stock. My friends 800+ HP cars idle and drive like stock if not better. When I take non car people for a ride and they hear me talk about how I've done this and that it goes this fast, they're surprised how well mannered the car is under normal driving conditions. It's when I floor it and the rear end squats and the front end lifts and the blower screams and the passenger is pinned to the seat they realize how powerful it is. As long as you have a good solid tuner it'll drive like stock. I have poly motor mounts and didn't notice a difference from stock. I also have a chromoly tubular front end and coil overs and it's very tame.


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[UnrealSVT]

Your HP level isn't going to determine the NVH as much as your suspension mods are. My car made over 700 and drives and idles better than stock. My friends 800+ HP cars idle and drive like stock if not better. When I take non car people for a ride and they hear me talk about how I've done this and that it goes this fast, they're surprised how well mannered the car is under normal driving conditions. It's when I floor it and the rear end squats and the front end lifts and the blower screams and the passenger is pinned to the seat they realize how powerful it is. As long as you have a good solid tuner it'll drive like stock. I have poly motor mounts and didn't notice a difference from stock. I also have a chromoly tubular front end and coil overs and it's very tame.


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I really appreciate your reply! And it's good to hear that you're making killer power and still maintaining some well mannered driveability! I will certainly look into the motor mounts you've suggested...as well as the tubular front and coil overs. Happy to hear!

Are you still IRS by chance? Any other suggestions or advice you've got for me suspension wise? I'm all ears...

Also, I hear ya on the tuner. I will be seeing LIDIO in Michigan for my tune. He said he is very comfortable at nailing a strong idle and clean driveability when pairing ID1300s with the Crusher inlet. My faith is in him as other Cobra owners are also happy with his work and tuning.

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[1Kona_Venom]

FTBR is good, had it in both my cars. One had coilovers and EVERY maximum motorsport made coupled with the FTBR kit, the other standard springs with FTBR kit etc. My cars had VMP and Whips lower boost amounts.

With ANY CAR, you turn one to many bolts and add just one or two many mods, the car will never be the same again.

Choose wisely

 

[Bdubbs]

I'm very happy with the way my car is other than the clutch. Probably in the ballpark of 700rwhp, drives and idles like stock, if not better. My tuner is Kevin aka 04sleeper.

I do a lot of cruising on country roads. I feel that my car is in the sweet spot hp wise.

I will eventually upgrade more irs bushings, bigger brakes, and install my dyad clutch. Maybe one day I'll upgrade to the tvs 2.65.

I've been down the road with my old fox body, nothing but headaches. I don't want that again.

 

[roy_1031]

I really appreciate your reply! And it's good to hear that you're making killer power and still maintaining some well mannered driveability! I will certainly look into the motor mounts you've suggested...as well as the tubular front and coil overs. Happy to hear!

Are you still IRS by chance? Any other suggestions or advice you've got for me suspension wise? I'm all ears...

Also, I hear ya on the tuner. I will be seeing LIDIO in Michigan for my tune. He said he is very comfortable at nailing a strong idle and clean driveability when pairing ID1300s with the Crusher inlet. My faith is in him as other Cobra owners are also happy with his work and tuning.

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Ya one piece of advice, leave your AC system alone. I tried playing with a killer chiller and it was nothing but headaches for me. Get a trunk mounted system with a pump for the blower cooling system if you want to upgrade the cooling on the blower system. Also a good set of gauges like aeroforce to monitor the temps and keep everything in check.

Ya still IRS. I have a Fore diff cover, MM IRS bushings, MM tie rods, G force axles, button head IRS bolt, FLSFC and 315 wide MT drag radials. I didn't have any wheel hop with those mods.

It sounds like you're on the right track and are doing it right.


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[Zemedici]

Lidio is a very talented tuner, and will take good care of you. Just listen to his recommendations, and spend the money on quality parts. It is cheaper to do it one good time, as opposed to one cheap time, and then expensive when you have to go back and redo it.

 

[UnrealSVT]

Ya one piece of advice, leave your AC system alone. I tried playing with a killer chiller and it was nothing but headaches for me. Get a trunk mounted system with a pump for the blower cooling system if you want to upgrade the cooling on the blower system. Also a good set of gauges like aeroforce to monitor the temps and keep everything in check.

Ya still IRS. I have a Fore diff cover, MM IRS bushings, MM tie rods, G force axles, button head IRS bolt, FLSFC and 315 wide MT drag radials. I didn't have any wheel hop with those mods.

It sounds like you're on the right track and are doing it right.


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Okay I gotcha. That's a shame man. I think the killer chiller is so stealth and such a good idea, but I hear alot of complaints about it. I will definitely look into a well made trunk mount. Glad you suggested aeroforce. I like the look of those...thats awesome that you've got yours set up and not experiencing any wheel hop! That's an awesome size tire too.

I'll also be going with the cobra engineering cooling mod. I purchased his IAC adapter for the Crusher (to keep the IAC from digging into the a.c. lines) and he's got some awesome customer service so, I'm sold on it!

Appreciate it bro!!!

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[UnrealSVT]

FTBR is good, had it in both my cars. One had coilovers and EVERY maximum motorsport made coupled with the FTBR kit, the other standard springs with FTBR kit etc. My cars had VMP and Whips lower boost amounts.

With ANY CAR, you turn one to many bolts and add just one or two many mods, the car will never be the same again.

Choose wisely

With what I've listed above, and throughout the thread here, any extra suggestions or advice on parts? Dos and donts. I trust you guys cause you've already done it. So, you can all save me a headache Lol!

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[ITSTOCK]

I'm not that high, but the single biggest creature comfort killer that I have done was the full coil overs set up for drag racing. CLUNK.

The solid rear is good to go, the th400 is good to go, hell, running on c16 isn't even an inconvenience to me. But the clunk of the full coil over suspension is just not enjoyable.

 

[UnrealSVT]

I'm very happy with the way my car is other than the clutch. Probably in the ballpark of 700rwhp, drives and idles like stock, if not better. My tuner is Kevin aka 04sleeper.

I do a lot of cruising on country roads. I feel that my car is in the sweet spot hp wise.

I will eventually upgrade more irs bushings, bigger brakes, and install my dyad clutch. Maybe one day I'll upgrade to the tvs 2.65.

I've been down the road with my old fox body, nothing but headaches. I don't want that again.

My problem exactly. My 2000 GT was the same exact way. Made me hate 2valves as much as it broke...i want to avoid these headaches at ALL cost. I already have a ton invested in parts and don't mind waiting and saving more to do it right...

It seems that after you cross over 750ish your wallet starts to shrink. As you've stated in other threads, shit starts breaking and you need more and more to support the new power.

I also really enjoy the back road cruising here in western PA and Northern WV area. So I don't want it to be a TOTAL race car. As far as driveability, response and feel. But I want it to be stupid fast on the highway and WOT pulls.

Thanks for the input, and glad yours is responding so well to the power level.

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[UnrealSVT]

Lidio is a very talented tuner, and will take good care of you. Just listen to his recommendations, and spend the money on quality parts. It is cheaper to do it one good time, as opposed to one cheap time, and then expensive when you have to go back and redo it.

I have heard great things about him. My good friend turned me towards him, and uses him to tune his Cobra as well. He made 802 wheel out of a 2.9 Crusher stock block, so I'm excited to see what he can do.

My ear is open to him. He seems very knowledgeable and he is confident he can get her running right!

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[UnrealSVT]

I'm not that high, but the single biggest creature comfort killer that I have done was the full coil overs set up for drag racing. CLUNK.

The solid rear is good to go, the th400 is good to go, hell, running on c16 isn't even an inconvenience to me. But the clunk of the full coil over suspension is just not enjoyable.

Thanks for the heads up. What brand coil overs did you go with? What made you swap to solid axle? How did the IRS perform at higher power levels?

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[ITSTOCK]

Thanks for the heads up. What brand coil overs did you go with? What made you swap to solid axle? How did the IRS perform at higher power levels?

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I have all Viking DA crusaders valved for track use, it's an incredible coilover/strut, I just drive my car 99% at the track so I went this route. You can get different valving/springs and it will be much better.

The IRS absolutely sucks at higher power if you are racing/launching hard. Once you upgrade the half shafts (I had Gforce), you will break the cover (I had the stock cover with the billetflow brace). Once you upgrade to the ford racing cover, you will break the actual housing. Mine exploded spectacularly. From there, you can either keep replacing with the stock housing, move on to a t bird housing, or be smart and just put the SRA in. Either way, next you're going to break the spider gears. If you drag race, don't waste time with the IRS. Yes, you CAN make it live. You can't make it live if you drive hard, and for the money you/I have/had invested, you can get a nice SRA.

 

[UnrealSVT]

I have all Viking DA crusaders valved for track use, it's an incredible coilover/strut, I just drive my car 99% at the track so I went this route. You can get different valving/springs and it will be much better.

The IRS absolutely sucks at higher power if you are racing/launching hard. Once you upgrade the half shafts (I had Gforce), you will break the cover (I had the stock cover with the billetflow brace). Once you upgrade to the ford racing cover, you will break the actual housing. Mine exploded spectacularly. From there, you can either keep replacing with the stock housing, move on to a t bird housing, or be smart and just put the SRA in. Either way, next you're going to break the spider gears. If you drag race, don't waste time with the IRS. Yes, you CAN make it live. You can't make it live if you drive hard, and for the money you/I have/had invested, you can get a nice SRA.

I gotcha. Solid advice! I really only see myself hammering it from a roll and not being at the track too terribly much. I would like to keep the IRS for all of the twisty mountain roads around me...not that there is anything against solid. I really enjoy the way the Cobra handles though.

And then I would like to have a ton of power for the highway and roll races. If I were entertaining the thought of more drag and track racing, I wouldn't even bring an IRS into the question at a level of 900+ wheel. I would to straight solid and call it a day. I've seen too many threads and Instagram posts of the broken half shafts and exoloded pumpkins when heavy track use and 800-900+ torque is involved.

Thanks man!

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