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Discussion in 'Terminator Talk' started by [email protected], Feb 10, 2015.
per current pending sales i believe we will be down to just one hood left.
There is a sale pending on that last one... Check your email Steve
email replied to.
im going to make some calls to see what we're looking at to get a new GB going. what the minimum number needed will be and what the costs will be this time. i was told last time that the 50/50 hood costs would be going up. ill post an interest check thread once i know.
post up more pics of these installed when you can!
my hood latch/hook doesn't fit at all - grinding the hook didn't help!
Very frustrated as I need my car back on the road in a few hours.
I did wait for the new hood latches to be done and they were installed by ED.
Sand the fiberglass side edges down so that the "j" brackets are flush with the striker plate.
it is finally on! well worth the wait and hassle of installing it!!
Looks great. Any alignment issues with the Aerocatch pins?
Love the areocatch pins. They have been on my list since I put the hood on. I'm just nervous cutting into the hood. Did you go with the black ones or the carbon look ones? Any closer pics? From the top and bottom? Thanks
DITTO, my cf hood should be in in the next few weeks and I'd like to get everything ready. About to order the mrt hood strut set up with the 56lb struts. Just need to figure out what model #aerotech
edit: also N/Angel those wheels look great, are they forgelines?
It's not that hard to do the pins. It comes with great instructions and a cutting template. There's plenty of videos online. Plus just cut the holes small and sand it down to fit perfectly
no issues that I know of, the boys at the shop do all the work for me. I already had them installed on my previous hood though, so probably easier.
black ones. IMO the hydrodipped ones look terrible up close and on real carbon fiber it would be even worse. No closer pics at this time as the car is not with me yet.
thank you. The wheels are Wedsport SA-70. Wish they were wider in the rear as even at 10x18 and ET18 they are still not flush with the fender. But they look good and are light!
Just got my hood installed an ran into the latch issue. Kinda thinking of saying "**** it" and ordering the aero catch latches as that was my original plan.
I already had a hood strut kit waiting for install and my install it on this hood so I can get rid of the prop.
Anyone have close up pictures of how they installed their aero catch pins?
Mine are sitting in the garage waiting on me to install. Should have them in in a couple of weeks
Are you guys going with the 120 or 125 series kit? Does the flush latch mount from the bottom? I'm guessing that is a no go with our hoods?
I went with the 120 series
Just want everyone to know it is possible to use the stock hood latch by making small ajustments, to the latch mount, the strike plate, and grinding the latch. The hook part of the latch is not the same metal as the rest of the latch and the hook is hardend steel, it required a tungsten-carbide bit to cut it "deeper" and open the entrance a little. I spent a few hours making it close properly, but it was worth it.
i logged temps in traffic... its 25 degrees cooler or greater, It doesn't heat up much at lights, Usually stays around 180-190* now. The hottest I was able to get it was around 204* sitting idling in the 95* heat...it's running cooler than when it was bone stock! I had issues with motor running hot since I switched to the built motor but this hood by far has done the most cooling of any cooling mod
Why cut the stock latch instead of making the stricter plate hole larger?
Because the latch is a cheaper and simpler to replace in case anything happend during modification.