Installing headers and midpipe this weekend

h4cHi

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Yeah the pass. Side is tight for getting passed the starter area. You have to get real creative with rotation and angle of entry.

I dont care if someone offtered me 5k I would never do this install again, my car is now in dealer for 3 synrcos going out -___-
 

vortecd

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The first time is the learning one then the next time is much easier
 

VETTEHUNTER

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Ok I'm stuck. The top front nut on pass. side. There's an ac line in front of it. What were your solutions?

My solution:

Broke the F***ing thing trying to bend it. I had it moved juuuuuust enough to get in there, but decided to get greedy and move it a tad more, and Pssssssssssssssssssssstttttttttttttt…..green die everywhere.….Oh well, it was an easy fix….AND….I had plenty of room after the line was removed lol.
 
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orange_whiner

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My solution:

Broke the F***ing thing trying to bend it. I had it moved juuuuuust enough to get in there, but decided to get greedy and move it a tad more, and Pssssssssssssssssssssstttttttttttttt…..green die everywhere.….Oh well, it was an easy fix….AND….I had plenty of room after the line was removed lol.

I ended up buying craftsman's offset ratcheting wrenches and it was a perfect fit for 3 tight spots that being one of them. The downside is they feel cheap, ratchets aren't tight, and excess material around the head makes getting to the underside bolts impossible.
 

the5

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Once you remove the motor mounts and drop the K Member what is holding the engine in?
 

Bullitt 3309

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On my Kook's style install today, I ended up removing two bolts of the a/c compressor then nudged it over so I could get to that stud. Since I am doing cams as well I cut the damn A/C belt of since it doesnt have an idler and Ford wants you to use some stupid "stretchy belt tool"... So I will be buying a new belt to put on after cams are in.
 

VETTEHUNTER

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Once you remove the motor mounts and drop the K Member what is holding the engine in?

Most just lower the K and only remove the brackets (motor mounts stay in place). If you support the motor and trans from the bell housing, you simply disconnect the power steering harness, steering shaft, motor mount bolts and un-bolt the K. The front suspension will only let it fall so far. Keep the jack in place at all times with slight upward tension on it as you lower the K.
 

the5

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Most just lower the K and only remove the brackets (motor mounts stay in place). If you support the motor and trans from the bell housing, you simply disconnect the power steering harness, steering shaft, motor mount bolts and un-bolt the K. The front suspension will only let it fall so far. Keep the jack in place at all times with slight upward tension on it as you lower the K.

But if you were to remove the mounts and lower the K, The motor would not be held in place at all correct?
 

scott_0

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VETTEHUNTER

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But if you were to remove the mounts and lower the K, The motor would not be held in place at all correct?

The jack supports the motor and trans while the K is dropped. The front suspension only allows the K to drop so far. The trans is still in the trans mount which helps support the rear.... You are removing the motor mount brackets from the block... not the mounts themselves.
 

Kornilov

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The jack supports the motor and trans while the K is dropped. The front suspension only allows the K to drop so far. The trans is still in the trans mount which helps support the rear.... You are removing the motor mount brackets from the block... not the mounts themselves.

Lets go back to the bent oil pan.

Did this occur because OP did not use a wood block to distribute weight? Or was there another reason?
Ive used the wood block + jack method on the oil pan of my girlfriend's V6 accord but am worried about doing this on my Coyote when it comes time to do headers.
 

Kornilov

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1353182033.jpg


4 jack stands all the way to the top catch will get you there.

Are you talking about 3 ton or 6 ton?

EDIT: Sorry did not see photo in post earlier because of work computer. 3 ton, thanks.
 
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