Installing headers and midpipe this weekend

h4cHi

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Getting locked out of 5th gear during some road testing at 120mph lol I finally got my car back TODAY, oil pan was smashed because while getting the driver side header on a friend of mine was lowering and raising the jack on oil pan with wood block and wood block slipped too far foward and CRUNCH. Oh well now its time to datalog my car hopefully I get it done Sunday transmission had 3 syncros go out a busted spring and syncro ring needless to say the transmission feels like its brand new
 

twistid

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So I'll be tackling this job soon and this thread has been very helpful. I'll have access to a lift and will purchase the ratcheting wench set... I'm leaning more towards the cjponyparts install method over dropping the kmember, would you still suggest dropping the kmember even with lift access?
Mustang ARH Long Tube Headers Installation 2011-2…: http://youtu.be/mGHKcDh3rfc
 

orange_whiner

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So I'll be tackling this job soon and this thread has been very helpful. I'll have access to a lift and will purchase the ratcheting wench set... I'm leaning more towards the cjponyparts install method over dropping the kmember, would you still suggest dropping the kmember even with lift access?
Mustang ARH Long Tube Headers Installation 2011-2…: http://youtu.be/mGHKcDh3rfc
is the lift 2 post or 4? for this work 2 post would be the BEST. I did the cjpony install method, wasn't bad at all, just really time consuming.
 

twistid

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is the lift 2 post or 4? for this work 2 post would be the BEST. I did the cjpony install method, wasn't bad at all, just really time consuming.
I have access to both types of lifts so I'll be sure to grab the two post.
 
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twistid

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Do you guys have any tips about installing with the k member method? I've downloaded BMR's tubular k member install instructions and it seems like an extensive extra step. One thing I'm thinking is if I drop the k member I should avoid raising the motor as stated in the cjponyparts install method.
 

NoSlo5oH

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Here's an example of how much room you'll have with the k member out of the way. IMO it's too important of a step to omit. It will also allow clear access to all of the bolts.
 

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twistid

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Thank you very much for the pictures, that helps put things into perspective, one last question though... You completely dropped the k member, a few posts earlier suggested disconnecting power steering harness and steering shaft while leaving the a arms connected, would letting the weight of the k member/rack+pinion be alright if I unbolted the k and let it hang? Also do you think this would give enough room as well? Thanks again for the help bro!
 

NoSlo5oH

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Thank you very much for the pictures, that helps put things into perspective, one last question though... You completely dropped the k member, a few posts earlier suggested disconnecting power steering harness and steering shaft while leaving the a arms connected, would letting the weight of the k member/rack+pinion be alright if I unbolted the k and let it hang? Also do you think this would give enough room as well? Thanks again for the help bro!

I personally wouldn't trust doing it that way, as it might add unnecessary stress to the tie rods. Just rent or buy a small pitman removal tool to pop the outer tie rod end loose from the ball joint, unplug the steering rack and steering shaft and the k member can be completely removed with ease. It'll probably add 30 minutes more to the job. Here's a tip I used when disconnecting the steering shaft. I used bungie cords to hold the steering wheel straight (wrapped them around the headrest). I did this because I had read that some people had excessive play in their steering wheels after reassembly.
 
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NoSlo5oH

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Might as well take advantage of the opportunity to install poly motor mounts too while you have the k member out.
 
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