Installing ATS Brembos on the Cobra.

GodStang

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Great info!
I think the calipers are off the regular ATS with the Brembo / 321mm rotor upgrade not ATS-V

Why did you choose the Z23 pads over the Z26?
Any updates on pro & cons?

Thanks

Good call. I know zero about Caddys and thought the car was called ATS-V did not know that it was a separate car than the ATS. Glad I got the part numbers in there. They are the J55 Brembo's for the Turbo 4 cylinder ATS.

As far as Z23 instead of Z26 I have no clue. Lack of sleep I guess. I thought I ordered Z26.
 
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GodStang

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I cant help but notice but did whoever that took the caliper weight difference photos weigh the oem cobra caliper loaded with pads and the new ATS caliper without the pads and pad retaining pins?

That was me. I was in a rush did not ever think about that. I will redo the picture when I get back to the shop.
 

Street Warrior

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@GodStang

Parts coming in!
 

Street Warrior

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The biggest part of this mod is machining .075" off the back of the Brembo mounting tabs where they bolt to the spindle. This is very important as it helps center the rotor. They need to be flush so don't use a grinder.


The Brake pads are a little too tall. You will have to grind 6mm off the top so they sit even with the rotor. We marked 6mm from top of pad all the way across the top and then used an air grinder to make quick work of it. It is VERY messy and don't breath the brake dust. I think Alan used a Belt grinder and his came out way better than mine. So that is another option.

Are these measurements for the caliper and pads "General" or something I can go off of and not mock up?
 

GodStang

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Are these measurements for the caliper and pads "General" or something I can go off of and not mock up?

The milling of the .075" is what is needed to center the rotor in the caliper once mounted so it needs to be level and exact that is why I recommend a milling or CNC machine. The 6mm off the top of the pad is a estimate that Alan gave when he did his. I measured 6mm off the top all the way across and it came out perfect.

I am hoping this correct answered your question.
 

Street Warrior

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The milling of the .075" is what is needed to center the rotor in the caliper once mounted so it needs to be level and exact that is why I recommend a milling or CNC machine. The 6mm off the top of the pad is a estimate that Alan gave when he did his. I measured 6mm off the top all the way across and it came out perfect.

I am hoping this correct answered your question.
Perfect,
I work at an Engine / Machine shop and can have one of the guys do the work.
Thanks again for posting this upgrade.
 

Street Warrior

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Little update on my findings.
First little background on my application. I did a Terminator swap into my Fox and pretty much everything I’ve done has been a challenge and time consuming. My OCD might have a little to do with it.

Factory tolerance will vary from one car to another with the spindle since it was designed for a floater application and didn’t matter much. Now with a fixed caliper I wanted to ensure everything was a close as possible.

On the spindles, drilling out the holes with a 9/16 bit on the car needs to be done with care. I dined do so well on the driver side but ok on the passenger side. This will help in opening the holes to accept the caliper. I would have done this off the car if possible.

65C1FA60-6900-4F76-9D94-A1CC33ABD3AD.jpeg
0312E92A-D3C7-4FB9-A516-2FB814AFD396.jpeg
A0492917-AA72-4513-82EE-9526EB3F2A66.jpeg

Now machining the caliper to center it to the rotor. My driver side needed .085 off and the passenger side needed .070 off. Got to love factory tolerances. I highly recommend measuring both side and having a machine shop cut the calipers.

0561840E-468D-4E6F-B412-65026FF114AF.jpeg
00C20146-20E9-4E8C-8325-4C69624E2197.jpeg
3D7CF1AD-E1B5-42DC-9DEF-64E5FBEE1055.jpeg
C52C0F3B-FE55-49B2-9B61-3CF28AFF2FD0.jpeg

I ended up with .113 - .118 of gap between the caliper and rotor checking on all side. I’m ok with that.

Now onto the brake pads, I’m going to try and find something that fits rather than cut them. The ATS pads are thin also since they have a thicker rotor than the Cobra.
 

torres973

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Little update on my findings.
First little background on my application. I did a Terminator swap into my Fox and pretty much everything I’ve done has been a challenge and time consuming. My OCD might have a little to do with it.

Factory tolerance will vary from one car to another with the spindle since it was designed for a floater application and didn’t matter much. Now with a fixed caliper I wanted to ensure everything was a close as possible.

On the spindles, drilling out the holes with a 9/16 bit on the car needs to be done with care. I dined do so well on the driver side but ok on the passenger side. This will help in opening the holes to accept the caliper. I would have done this off the car if possible.

View attachment 1581302
View attachment 1581303
View attachment 1581304

Now machining the caliper to center it to the rotor. My driver side needed .085 off and the passenger side needed .070 off. Got to love factory tolerances. I highly recommend measuring both side and having a machine shop cut the calipers.

View attachment 1581305
View attachment 1581306
View attachment 1581307
View attachment 1581308

I ended up with .113 - .118 of gap between the caliper and rotor checking on all side. I’m ok with that.

Now onto the brake pads, I’m going to try and find something that fits rather than cut them. The ATS pads are thin also since they have a thicker rotor than the Cobra.

Any updated? Let us know if find something
 

GodStang

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Any updates on brakes? How are the pads / rotors wearing?

I have not driven it a lot but I love them. They really stop much much better and I think if I got the Z26 instead it would be that much better.

Little update on my findings.
First little background on my application. I did a Terminator swap into my Fox and pretty much everything I’ve done has been a challenge and time consuming. My OCD might have a little to do with it.

Factory tolerance will vary from one car to another with the spindle since it was designed for a floater application and didn’t matter much. Now with a fixed caliper I wanted to ensure everything was a close as possible.

On the spindles, drilling out the holes with a 9/16 bit on the car needs to be done with care. I dined do so well on the driver side but ok on the passenger side. This will help in opening the holes to accept the caliper. I would have done this off the car if possible.

View attachment 1581302
View attachment 1581303
View attachment 1581304

Now machining the caliper to center it to the rotor. My driver side needed .085 off and the passenger side needed .070 off. Got to love factory tolerances. I highly recommend measuring both side and having a machine shop cut the calipers.

View attachment 1581305
View attachment 1581306
View attachment 1581307
View attachment 1581308

I ended up with .113 - .118 of gap between the caliper and rotor checking on all side. I’m ok with that.

Now onto the brake pads, I’m going to try and find something that fits rather than cut them. The ATS pads are thin also since they have a thicker rotor than the Cobra.

Awesome info and thanks for the pictures! Please keep us updated if you find a better pad.
 

Street Warrior

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Guys, no luck finding a pad that will work, maybe a 13.5" rotor would be good....
Anyway, for those of you going to try and cut the pads, take you time. I used a cut of wheel and f$^&** up the pads, so onto my second set. These things cut like butter which surprised the hell out of me. Now that I got my wheel stud and spacer situation sorted, I can get everything mounted up and scribe the pads for an accurate cut. My wheels have the wrong offset thanks to TF.
Here's what she looks like so far. Excuse the mess in the wheel well - still work in process.
Photo Jun 25, 8 13 46 PM.jpg
 
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GodStang

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Guys, no luck finding a pad that will work, maybe a 13.5" rotor would be good....
Anyway, for those of you going to try and cut the pads, take you time. I used a cut of wheel and f$^&** up the pads, so onto my second set. These things cut like butter which surprised the hell out of me. Now that I got my wheel stud and spacer situation sorted, I can get everything mounted up and scribe the pads for an accurate cut. My wheels have the wrong offset thanks to TF (no wonder their out of business).
Here's what she looks like so far. Excuse the mess in the wheel well - still work in process.
View attachment 1582097


Looks great so far and use the pads cut super quick.
 

94 Cobra R

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Guys, no luck finding a pad that will work, maybe a 13.5" rotor would be good....
Anyway, for those of you going to try and cut the pads, take you time. I used a cut of wheel and f$^&** up the pads, so onto my second set. These things cut like butter which surprised the hell out of me. Now that I got my wheel stud and spacer situation sorted, I can get everything mounted up and scribe the pads for an accurate cut. My wheels have the wrong offset thanks to TF (no wonder their out of business).
Here's what she looks like so far. Excuse the mess in the wheel well - still work in process.
View attachment 1582097

I like your post, but I think TF is out of business cause Steve’s wife has cancer.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 

Badasssapper67

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Little update on my findings.
First little background on my application. I did a Terminator swap into my Fox and pretty much everything I’ve done has been a challenge and time consuming. My OCD might have a little to do with it.

Factory tolerance will vary from one car to another with the spindle since it was designed for a floater application and didn’t matter much. Now with a fixed caliper I wanted to ensure everything was a close as possible.

On the spindles, drilling out the holes with a 9/16 bit on the car needs to be done with care. I dined do so well on the driver side but ok on the passenger side. This will help in opening the holes to accept the caliper. I would have done this off the car if possible.

View attachment 1581302
View attachment 1581303
View attachment 1581304

Now machining the caliper to center it to the rotor. My driver side needed .085 off and the passenger side needed .070 off. Got to love factory tolerances. I highly recommend measuring both side and having a machine shop cut the calipers.

View attachment 1581305
View attachment 1581306
View attachment 1581307
View attachment 1581308

I ended up with .113 - .118 of gap between the caliper and rotor checking on all side. I’m ok with that.

Now onto the brake pads, I’m going to try and find something that fits rather than cut them. The ATS pads are thin also since they have a thicker rotor than the Cobra.

In your opinion, would there be enough room to run a 14" disc with the calipers the way theyre being mounted? Or if not, could you clearence the calipers to fit one in?
 

GodStang

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In your opinion, would there be enough room to run a 14" disc with the calipers the way theyre being mounted? Or if not, could you clearence the calipers to fit one in?

If you look at how close the rotor is to the clip on a 13" without a bracket to set it out I don't see how 14" would be possible.

IMG_3095.jpg
 

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