If you did it all over again,,,WHAT MOD WOULD YOU HAVE SKIPPED???

slowgreycobra

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Ported eaton, should have just put the twin screw on that I had. Oh well, a 2.9 is sitting in the box staring at me now so it worked out in the end. I at least put the supporting mods for the twin screw minus the fuel system in.
 

Bruha

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Honestly, this was one of my favorite mods!

My worst would be the decision to not upgrade the irs first. I think I would have had a lot more fun. Adding power just made that worse to the point I was just frustrated all the time.

MGW shifter.

I pulled my TriAx out of bordedom after 6 years and replaced with MGW. No better.

Mgw shifter here too, not all its cracked up to be that's for sure.

This for me too.

Wish I could find one I liked, I suck at shifting with this thing.
 

jimbob8915

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Kinda regret my Borla stinger catback. I would be willing to loose 25 hp for a quieter ride. I am gettin old bro.
 

HURTNEM

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Wow guys, My plan was to 2.9 upper/4# lower with a ported stage 4-5, with supporting fuel/ cooling upgrades. Now I'm thinking of just doing the 2.9 upper w/ supporting pulley's and call it a day and save for a whipple.

I already did the boost bypass mod and had a lot of loud pedal that day, but for some reason a by product of the boost bypass mod was a negitive effect on the fuel guage :fart: Thanks for all your inputs. Can't wait to drive to work in the morning.

I have a 2.90 upper/4lb lower with a Stage IV ported eaton and LOVE it! I think it's an excellent in between step instead of jumping straight to a twin screw. I've had this set up since Mar/Apr 2008 and I'm still having fun with it. Most folks say go straight to a TS, but they haven't gotten the full potential out of their eaton. I know plenty TS cars that get beat by ported eatons as well, cause the average joe can't drive the TS car right. If you're on the highway and going from a roll then yeah, the TS will most likely get you. However, go from a dig on the street and watch the TS car spin 1st-3rd while the lil ported eaton is at the finish line.

To each their own, but I don't regret my Ported Eaton setup and I think it's a great stage to learn before jumping up to 600RWHP. Plenty folks have ended up in ditches not knowing how to handle that power. I'd feel comfortable jumping to a TS now since I've learned to handle the ported eaton, but not from a stock cobra. Just my thoughts.

As far as mods I regret, none that I can recall at this point since I get a lot of advice beforehand.
 

shurur

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My mod regrets are few compared most of you folks.....
BUT I regret dumping my factory seats for cheap "no apc logo" seats off of ebay..thinking they were going to hold me in around the corners...NOT!!

I'm so ticked I'm probably going to get corb forzas or sparco sprints someday for my DD!!
I like the Sparco R100's though..but haven't got to sit in any of them...that may be my compromise for a DD..but they better hold me in!!

Gave the Ford seats to a friend for his 1971 mustang (Hildago!!)..I do feel good about that..as the seats found a good home.
 

Dreddstang

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When I bought my car in April it was bone stock.....first mod was a new Flowmaster cat-back a buddy gave me a deal on ($200 new). Wish I would have just bought the right exhaust first, lol.....I have the Borla stingers now and f'n love it!
 

Schlangenbisse

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Yeah I also see nothing wrong with going with the ported Eaton before TS. For people with budget restraints, 500rwhp is too easy to get and isn't that expensive. Now if you can save for a Whipple or KB with supporting mods within a few months, do it :rockon:
 

matt87

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off road x-pipe and cheap chinese ddm hid kit. i'll never do an or/x ever again. the smell,legality and raspy exhaust/loud was not worth it to me. i had one on my blown 01 cobra and if you stood behind the car for one minute you stunk the rest of the day. no thanks, i bet it would be even worse in my vert. the whole "hid in everything on wheels" fad needs to die. they dont last and they blind everyone. JUNK!
 

CobraBob

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Skipping the Eaton.

Yeah, probably many of those who went from a ported Eaton to a twin-screw would say they would have jumped right for the twin-screw. I have to admit I was very pleased with my ported Eaton and really had no plans to go twin-screw.
 

Tractionless1

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None, did my research instead of rushing in and made wise decisions. :coolman:
But now that I've been in the game for awhile and new options are available I'll upgrade if the need arises. For example when I installed the IRS cover brace Fore and LPW covers weren't available.
 
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Othic

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I would have skipped installing my FTBR IRS kit. Didnt fix my clunk like advertised, nor did it fix my wheel hop like advertised. I wish I would have just gotten another GT. No turning back now, Ive got too much invested.
 

Bruha

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This is a first. Never heard of anyone disappointed in FTB's kit.

I would have skipped installing my FTBR IRS kit. Didnt fix my clunk like advertised, nor did it fix my wheel hop like advertised. I wish I would have just gotten another GT. No turning back now, Ive got too much invested.
 

speeddemon2000

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Just three items.
1. I regret my gauge choice. Autometer Lunar electrics. Temp gauge is not very accurate and the lighting medium is burned out.
2. I also regret not fabbing up my own brake duct plates that blow only into the hat.
3. LFP radiator had a rather short service life.

That's it, everything else is great!:rockon: Love the car this way!

Power and engine related mods:
Whipple 2.3 twin screw supercharger with 3.50" upper pulley and stock lower
JLT 12" cold air intake(high boost)
Magnaflow cat back
Fuel mods include KB Boost-A-Pump, PPRV delete, FPDM and pumps wire upgrade.
JLT PCV oil catch screens.(prefilters)
SCT Excal II tuner and datalog pass through.
Tune by RWTD running with the devil.(email tune)
COOLING:
LFP race radiator:nonono:, LFP dual pass H/E, Evans 180 T-stat(relocate) using stock oil cooler and empty stat housing.
Opened up hood vents and lower wider air dam under rad(partial boxing).
Canton radiator and inter-cooler reservoirs.
SUSPENSION and CHASSIS:
Global West full competition sub frame connectors.
Autopower 4 point bolt in road race roll bar.
Maximum Motorsports: aluminum rack bushings, K brace, caster-camber plates, rear sway bar bushings and end links.
Full Tilt Boogie Racing: Delrin, Aluminum, UHMW IRS bushings (NO WHEEL HOP!!!).
Billet-Flow IRS cover brace.
Slightly cut stock springs and stock Bilstein shocks.
Battery relocate(trunk mount)
BRAKES:
Brembo 4 piston calipers.
Mid-Continental Mustangs brake cooling plates:dw: and silicone high temp ducts.
Carbotech XP10 and XP12 front race pads, XP8 rear race pads, Street pads Bobcat 1521.
INTERIOR:
Seats modded for fifth anti sub belt.(all fabbed by me and covers altered by trim shop)
5 point harness belts, plus all DOT belts retained.
MGW trans shifter.
Autometer LUNAR :bash: oil pressure and engine coolant gauges in Speed of sound A pillar.

Did you go back to the stock radiator or buy another brand?
 

Jimmysidecarr

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Did you go back to the stock radiator or buy another brand?

It is currently epoxied up by a radiator shop that told me "no guarantee", with a healthy does of Bars Leak aluminum radiator stop leak in it and it has been holding.

I have been daily driving it 50 miles a day to work this week too since I had a bad wreck in my Grand Marquis.

I will be adding some better gauges and changing my T-stat to a Reische 170 very soon as well as installing, what I believe is a new proto type Killer Chiller.

Also switching to Royal Purple XPR 5W-30 racing oil from the RP 10W-40 street oil.
As long as you have the protection covered, there are several advantages to lighter viscosity oils even in endurance applications.
 
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AznStanger3v

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I regret putting in a Tri-Ax. I took it out after a road trip from D.C. to Orlando and back. My SN-95 cars were loud and creaky, I didn't want the cobra to be that way. Even with the gasket set, the transmission noise drove me nuts. I need dead silence in the cabin, minus the note of the exhaust. Gotta hear that exhaust sometimes. PS- Tri Ax is still for sale. lol
 

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