If you did it all over again,,,WHAT MOD WOULD YOU HAVE SKIPPED???

oldmodman

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Stopped spending money until the Whipple 2.9 came out. Then do everything at once.
2.9 Whipple
Boss block with Oliver rods, ARP hardware, Mahle pistons.
Still haven't decided on who to have port the heads. Already have the 9 thread ones.
Entire FORE fuel system.
Bruce's bushing kit.
NOT waste the money on DSS Level 5 shafts.
Centerforce DYAD dual plate clutch.
Tremec Magnum transmission.
Carbon fiber driveshaft.
Brembo brakes.
Lots of MM stuff.
 

2001asp

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Wow guys, My plan was to 2.9 upper/4# lower with a ported stage 4-5, with supporting fuel/ cooling upgrades. Now I'm thinking of just doing the 2.9 upper w/ supporting pulley's and call it a day and save for a whipple.

I already did the boost bypass mod and had a lot of loud pedal that day, but for some reason a by product of the boost bypass mod was a negitive effect on the fuel guage :fart: Thanks for all your inputs. Can't wait to drive to work in the morning.
 

2001blkR

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I'd say save your money on the 2.9 pulley+ tune costs and save for the 2.9 whipple! Plus all fuel mods.
 

Jimmysidecarr

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Just three items.
1. I regret my gauge choice. Autometer Lunar electrics. Temp gauge is not very accurate and the lighting medium is burned out.
2. I also regret not fabbing up my own brake duct plates that blow only into the hat.
3. LFP radiator had a rather short service life.

That's it, everything else is great!:rockon: Love the car this way!

Power and engine related mods:
Whipple 2.3 twin screw supercharger with 3.50" upper pulley and stock lower
JLT 12" cold air intake(high boost)
Magnaflow cat back
Fuel mods include KB Boost-A-Pump, PPRV delete, FPDM and pumps wire upgrade.
JLT PCV oil catch screens.(prefilters)
SCT Excal II tuner and datalog pass through.
Tune by RWTD running with the devil.(email tune)
COOLING:
LFP race radiator:nonono:, LFP dual pass H/E, Evans 180 T-stat(relocate) using stock oil cooler and empty stat housing.
Opened up hood vents and lower wider air dam under rad(partial boxing).
Canton radiator and inter-cooler reservoirs.
SUSPENSION and CHASSIS:
Global West full competition sub frame connectors.
Autopower 4 point bolt in road race roll bar.
Maximum Motorsports: aluminum rack bushings, K brace, caster-camber plates, rear sway bar bushings and end links.
Full Tilt Boogie Racing: Delrin, Aluminum, UHMW IRS bushings (NO WHEEL HOP!!!).
Billet-Flow IRS cover brace.
Slightly cut stock springs and stock Bilstein shocks.
Battery relocate(trunk mount)
BRAKES:
Brembo 4 piston calipers.
Mid-Continental Mustangs brake cooling plates:dw: and silicone high temp ducts.
Carbotech XP10 and XP12 front race pads, XP8 rear race pads, Street pads Bobcat 1521.
INTERIOR:
Seats modded for fifth anti sub belt.(all fabbed by me and covers altered by trim shop)
5 point harness belts, plus all DOT belts retained.
MGW trans shifter.
Autometer LUNAR :bash: oil pressure and engine coolant gauges in Speed of sound A pillar.
 
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CobraBob

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I'd say save your money on the 2.9 pulley+ tune costs and save for the 2.9 whipple! Plus all fuel mods.

There are some who are on a more limited budget, so for them a stock Eaton or ported Eaton with a 2.90-2.76 upper and maybe a 4 lb. lower with fuel mods is actually a good setup. But if your budget is fatter and you absolutely have to have 550+rwhp then the twin screw or twin turbo is the best way to go for sure.
 

Jimmysidecarr

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Jimmy i just put a lfp radiator in mine. What are u calling a short life?

3 years and it leaked.
Don't use a high water percentage without lots of galvanic corrosion protection and verify there is no excessive current running through it to ground when running.
It's partially my fault because I did not run Purple Ice or Water Wetter after increasing my water percentage.
Also don't run distilled water with a high water percentage coolant mix, it has MUCH more active galvanic action than normal filtered drinking water.

:bash: Now I know... and now you do too.:beer:
 

black 10th vert

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Wow guys, My plan was to 2.9 upper/4# lower with a ported stage 4-5, with supporting fuel/ cooling upgrades. Now I'm thinking of just doing the 2.9 upper w/ supporting pulley's and call it a day and save for a whipple.

I already did the boost bypass mod and had a lot of loud pedal that day, but for some reason a by product of the boost bypass mod was a negitive effect on the fuel guage :fart: Thanks for all your inputs. Can't wait to drive to work in the morning.

See, that right there is a good plan, especially if you can find an already ported blower in the market, because you can use it while saving for a Whipple, and recoup most, if not all of your investment (and have fun with some added power for awhile;-)). Definitely skip the 4# lower - especially if you think you may go with a 2.9 Whipple at some point. It's not worth risking your crank, or bearings for - unless you want to spend $600-$700, and buy the caged version that some member on here was making. Even if you go that route, it will end up being sold if you go with a 2.9 Whipple since you would have to run a huge upper pulley to keep the boost low enough to actually drive it on the street without having a source of jet fuel at your disposal. Personally, I don't care how much power "potential" there is, I will never run more than I can reliably use with standard 93 octane fuel.
 

younggun04

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4 mods I regret

1. Bad "tune" resulting in blown engine.
2. Ported eaton lasted about a month before upgrading
3. Should have went return fuel right off the bat when swapping my whipple.
4. Not getting the RXT over the RST the first time.
 

03 DSG Snake

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MGW shifter.

I pulled my TriAx out of bordedom after 6 years and replaced with MGW. No better.
 

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