I will PAY YOU if you can tell me whats wrong with my car before I drive it off a cliff

big dad

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The first thing that I would do now is check to make sure the cams are installed properly, by that I mean that they're not only degreed correctly but also in their perspective locations, exhaust on exhaust side and intake on intake side. This sounds like a timing issue with the cams. If you don't know where the problem is, find out where it isn't.

Problems like these can be difficult to diagnose over the internet without actually witnessing them in person. At this point I would take my time and eliminate one thing at a time because you could fix one problem and create another one in the process if you try to many things at once. Good luck and remember you're smarter than what you're working on. Let us know.
 

PNWSVT

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The cams are installed correctly (exhaust and intake both banks) I degreed them multiple times to make sure they came in within spec of the cam card which they did. I used the comp cams kit, mechanical micrometer, Moroso pro wheel, and comp cams crank socket. I followed both Sean hyland and comp cams instructions for install as well.

If the cams were degreed incorrectly, would it still have been capable of making 600 wheel horsepower on a smooth curve?

I get your point of figuring out what it isn’t. But I need concrete evidence as to why it could be a cam issue. I don’t have the money anymore or the time. I’m over 2000 in tuning and no one can give me an answer. Only other thing I can think of is taking the motor out completely and putting a factory one in.

I haven’t been able to even enjoy my dream car.
 

BlckBox04

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Local shop, I have known the builder for a long time. He competed in engine masters and has a waiting list around the block for people to come in and do rebuilds.

what did he say about all of this?
 

BlckBox04

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re-reading - if it ran great with the O2s off maybe there's an issue with the harness(es)? Perhaps something got pinched/rubbed by the trans or too close to the exhaust and got a little melty?

I was trying to get at that also. That's why I questioned the o2 problem immediately
 

Nightmare302

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Low compression motor, there should be no valve piston contact.
Just my guess and few hours work to double check, vacuum leak. Pull the intake/blower new gaskets.
Sounds like a headache, keep us posted.

Compression has nothing to do with PTV contact. The valves are on the edge of the cylinder and the piston will contact regardless of recess/dome if it doesn't have valve reliefs.
 

PNWSVT

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The fuel system was older, so I upgraded:
-10 ptfe feeding from the fore hat to the fuel filter, from the filter to a y-block where it splits to
New fore fuel rails with
-8 ptfe exiting and going to the aeromotive a1000 FPR
then -8 return to the fore hat.

I’m using a fore FC2 controller that has the pumps currently running 100% of the time.
 

PNWSVT

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I will say once the key is turned on, you can here the fuel rushing to the engine, to the regulator and then hear it pushing past back to the tank. Not sure if thats common but it sometimes doesnt sound "fluid" as in smooth, sounds like it kinda bogs down then makes its way back. Maybe because the car isnt on so theres no vacum in the regulator
 

gt347mustang

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May have missed this, but where are you located?

Run a compression test and post the results. Don't ask why, please just do it.
 

DSG2003Mach1

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I will say once the key is turned on, you can here the fuel rushing to the engine, to the regulator and then hear it pushing past back to the tank. Not sure if thats common but it sometimes doesnt sound "fluid" as in smooth, sounds like it kinda bogs down then makes its way back. Maybe because the car isnt on so theres no vacum in the regulator

my return system makes all kind of noises when priming, I dont think I'd be concerned with that. If fuel pressure is all over the place once running that would be something else
 

03' White Snake

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1, did your Tuner convert your fuel system to return style in the tune?
2, set your base pressure to 40 psi at the rail after it is running.
3, check your vacuum lines on your boost bypass.
4, could be a loose maf connection or broken wire. My brother had all kinds of rich/lean issues with the new JLT with the maf installed and wires hitting the VC.
 

DSG2003Mach1

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1, did your Tuner convert your fuel system to return style in the tune?
2, set your base pressure to 40 psi at the rail after it is running.
3, check your vacuum lines on your boost bypass.
4, could be a loose maf connection or broken wire. My brother had all kinds of rich/lean issues with the new JLT with the maf installed and wires hitting the VC.

vacuum reference removed for step 2 is my understanding then put it back once base pressure is set
 

Liquidsnake

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Do you have a good alternator? Have you ever checked your voltage at WoT? Cars do weird stuff with inadequate electrical power.

Did you delete that hose coming from the bottom of the intake? If not, that can leak and cause a loss in boost.

But to me this sounds like an electrical or maybe unmetered air/vacuum problem.
 

SVT_Troy

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Are you running a fuel rail crossover line to equalize our the rails?

That’s not expensive to do so I’d try that.

Have you check your connection to the ECU in the passenger footwell? Disconnect it, inspect the pins and just reset it. As well as the harness in the engine bay that you would tie into for a 2-step, disconnect, inspect pins and reconnect.

Have you removed all major grounds , cleaned them and sheet metal and reinstalled them?

After that I would check the crank trigger wheel like previously stated.


Sent from my iPhone using svtperformance.com
 

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