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2013-14 Shelby GT500
I murdered my Blowfish shifter bracket
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<blockquote data-quote="Cman01" data-source="post: 16246543" data-attributes="member: 138028"><p>So what you need...…………...and to do to use the BF bracket with MGW Gen 2 shifter:</p><p></p><p>To keep the Gen 2 shifter body and the rear body mount in the exact OE location, first put a 3/8" drive socket underneath the shifter body and above the driveshaft (in my case a 19mm short 3/8" drive socket fits perfectly there). The socket keeps the shifter body in the proper place so it doesn't drop down when you remove the rear body mount.</p><p></p><p>Now remove the rear body mount and rotate it 180 degrees and place it back on the rear shifter mount pins, make a note beforehand how much the pins stick through the body mount (they actually don't stick out a lot it's actually more like flush).</p><p></p><p>Now when you raise the loop part of the BF bracket you will realize that at the highest height of the loop bracket will go it is nowhere close to the bottom of the rear body mount that you rotated and mounted on the shifter body pins, that gap distance is about 1 1/8".</p><p></p><p>I hit a metal place where they sell various metals in various sizes (called Metal Supermarkets in my area, your local area may have something similar). <a href="https://www.metalsupermarkets.com" target="_blank">Metal Supermarkets | Steel, Aluminum, Stainless, Hot-Rolled, Cold-Rolled, Alloy, Carbon, Galvanized, Brass, Bronze, Copper</a> and get a piece of square stock alum. 1.25" x1.25" x 5". You also need 2 6mm bolts 2.5" long with 2 nuts, 2 flat washers and 2 lock washers.</p><p></p><p>You can either slot the 2 holes you need on either side of the alum stock or measure precisely and drill a 6mm hole on either side so you can bolt together the rear Gen 2 bracket, alum stock and BF loop bracket with the longer bolts, nuts, washers that you got.</p><p></p><p>Once it's all together, get under the car and attach the Gen 2 mount to the shifter pins then tighten up the BF loop bracket to the trans bracket, remove the socket you had under the shifter body and you are done. The shifter is now in the OE spot and also the rear shifter bracket but rotated 180 degrees (if you have it in the proper spot on the BF bracket it clears the 2 studs where it was bolted originally and doesn't contact any part of the floor underneath the car).</p><p></p><p>Pics:</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]1586698[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]1586699[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>When the car is stored I plan to paint the alum stock so it isn't just bare alum under there (not worried about it right now since it's alum and won't rust).</p><p></p><p>Shifts just like before and no extra vibrations and/or noises.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Cman01, post: 16246543, member: 138028"] So what you need...…………...and to do to use the BF bracket with MGW Gen 2 shifter: To keep the Gen 2 shifter body and the rear body mount in the exact OE location, first put a 3/8" drive socket underneath the shifter body and above the driveshaft (in my case a 19mm short 3/8" drive socket fits perfectly there). The socket keeps the shifter body in the proper place so it doesn't drop down when you remove the rear body mount. Now remove the rear body mount and rotate it 180 degrees and place it back on the rear shifter mount pins, make a note beforehand how much the pins stick through the body mount (they actually don't stick out a lot it's actually more like flush). Now when you raise the loop part of the BF bracket you will realize that at the highest height of the loop bracket will go it is nowhere close to the bottom of the rear body mount that you rotated and mounted on the shifter body pins, that gap distance is about 1 1/8". I hit a metal place where they sell various metals in various sizes (called Metal Supermarkets in my area, your local area may have something similar). [URL='https://www.metalsupermarkets.com']Metal Supermarkets | Steel, Aluminum, Stainless, Hot-Rolled, Cold-Rolled, Alloy, Carbon, Galvanized, Brass, Bronze, Copper[/URL] and get a piece of square stock alum. 1.25" x1.25" x 5". You also need 2 6mm bolts 2.5" long with 2 nuts, 2 flat washers and 2 lock washers. You can either slot the 2 holes you need on either side of the alum stock or measure precisely and drill a 6mm hole on either side so you can bolt together the rear Gen 2 bracket, alum stock and BF loop bracket with the longer bolts, nuts, washers that you got. Once it's all together, get under the car and attach the Gen 2 mount to the shifter pins then tighten up the BF loop bracket to the trans bracket, remove the socket you had under the shifter body and you are done. The shifter is now in the OE spot and also the rear shifter bracket but rotated 180 degrees (if you have it in the proper spot on the BF bracket it clears the 2 studs where it was bolted originally and doesn't contact any part of the floor underneath the car). Pics: [ATTACH=full]1586698[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=full]1586699[/ATTACH] When the car is stored I plan to paint the alum stock so it isn't just bare alum under there (not worried about it right now since it's alum and won't rust). Shifts just like before and no extra vibrations and/or noises. [/QUOTE]
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2013-14 Shelby GT500
I murdered my Blowfish shifter bracket
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