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2013-14 Shelby GT500
I murdered my Blowfish shifter bracket
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<blockquote data-quote="Cman01" data-source="post: 16210185" data-attributes="member: 138028"><p>So my discussion with George @ MGW was on the top plate, I can get a new top plate complete with the rubber gasket membrane for like $50.00 so not too bad basically what I saved on the Easter holiday sale price on the shifter I'm giving it back. <img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite3" alt=":(" title="Frown :(" loading="lazy" data-shortname=":(" /></p><p></p><p>The individual parts of the top plate are actually available separately, so since I dremeled the square plate and not the round area I could just get that piece if I wanted to but it was only going to be like $8-10 difference in price vs. the complete plate so for me just easier to get the complete thing.</p><p></p><p>The next thing was about the notchiness, George suggested that I loosen the rear support bracket on the car and loosen the bolts that attach the front support arms 1-2 turns from full tight starting only at the driver's side bolts then try the shifter. If it feels better shifting add a shim or washer to that left side, tighten everything back up and it should be fine. If that does nothing loosen the pass. side bolts also and check the shifting, if it's better then again add shim/washer to that side and tighten everything up.</p><p></p><p>It has something to do with the tight tolerances of the shifter shaft bearing inside the body of the shifter and how the body is attached in relation to the trans. centerline. Some engine/trans. installed @ the factory might not be totally aligned within the centerline of the chassis and since the Gen 2 is precisely machined it might put a slight load/pressure on the brg. if the trans is not attached to the car properly from Ford.</p><p></p><p>After a brief search I found this post:</p><p></p><p><a href="https://www.svtperformance.com/threads/clunky-notchy-shifting-with-mgw-gen2.1109179/" target="_blank">https://www.svtperformance.com/threads/clunky-notchy-shifting-with-mgw-gen2.1109179/</a></p><p></p><p>It doesn't precisely mention what George told me but I think it's related. The problem is most people say the shifter new is notchy and will free up a bit with use and right now I have no reference as to whether my shifter is notchy because it's new and get better with use or it's notchy because of what George mentioned to me and what's in the thread above.</p><p></p><p>Since bolting the rear support bracket to the car I do notice it is slightly better shifting than before with that part on the BF bracket but I still hope that it will be better with use and time, but I don't know if the shifter right now is perfectly inline with the trans as George mentioned so I will have to check that...……………………….so much with wanting to not get under the car again.</p><p></p><p>I also wonder if I put off getting under the car to check this would I cause damage to the shifter using it currently?</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Cman01, post: 16210185, member: 138028"] So my discussion with George @ MGW was on the top plate, I can get a new top plate complete with the rubber gasket membrane for like $50.00 so not too bad basically what I saved on the Easter holiday sale price on the shifter I'm giving it back. :( The individual parts of the top plate are actually available separately, so since I dremeled the square plate and not the round area I could just get that piece if I wanted to but it was only going to be like $8-10 difference in price vs. the complete plate so for me just easier to get the complete thing. The next thing was about the notchiness, George suggested that I loosen the rear support bracket on the car and loosen the bolts that attach the front support arms 1-2 turns from full tight starting only at the driver's side bolts then try the shifter. If it feels better shifting add a shim or washer to that left side, tighten everything back up and it should be fine. If that does nothing loosen the pass. side bolts also and check the shifting, if it's better then again add shim/washer to that side and tighten everything up. It has something to do with the tight tolerances of the shifter shaft bearing inside the body of the shifter and how the body is attached in relation to the trans. centerline. Some engine/trans. installed @ the factory might not be totally aligned within the centerline of the chassis and since the Gen 2 is precisely machined it might put a slight load/pressure on the brg. if the trans is not attached to the car properly from Ford. After a brief search I found this post: [URL]https://www.svtperformance.com/threads/clunky-notchy-shifting-with-mgw-gen2.1109179/[/URL] It doesn't precisely mention what George told me but I think it's related. The problem is most people say the shifter new is notchy and will free up a bit with use and right now I have no reference as to whether my shifter is notchy because it's new and get better with use or it's notchy because of what George mentioned to me and what's in the thread above. Since bolting the rear support bracket to the car I do notice it is slightly better shifting than before with that part on the BF bracket but I still hope that it will be better with use and time, but I don't know if the shifter right now is perfectly inline with the trans as George mentioned so I will have to check that...……………………….so much with wanting to not get under the car again. I also wonder if I put off getting under the car to check this would I cause damage to the shifter using it currently? [/QUOTE]
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2013-14 Shelby GT500
I murdered my Blowfish shifter bracket
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