I finally bought a 2003 Cobra

01yellercobra

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As someone that's been running a Bassani X since 2004 I wouldn't say it tucks all that great. I love the sound with the Stingers and touring mufflers, but it tends to hang a little low. I do have the 5 piece unit though. Maybe the one piece is better.
 

2003RedfireVert

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My bassani hung low. I’m on H and Rs and it sits pretty low. My current BBK long tubes with off brand X sits low but I rarely scrape.
 

Immortan

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As someone that's been running a Bassani X since 2004 I wouldn't say it tucks all that great. I love the sound with the Stingers and touring mufflers, but it tends to hang a little low. I do have the 5 piece unit though. Maybe the one piece is better.
My bassani hung low. I’m on H and Rs and it sits pretty low. My current BBK long tubes with off brand X sits low but I rarely scrape.

Would you two say it hangs similar to the SLP I posted? I thought about getting a Bassani O/R X since it’s much cheaper, but I can’t find Malfunction Indicator Light Mustang Interceptor Light eliminators; I’m guessing they are easy to make with a resistor or something.
 

2003RedfireVert

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Would you two say it hangs similar to the SLP I posted? I thought about getting a Bassani O/R X since it’s much cheaper, but I can’t find Malfunction Indicator Light Mustang Interceptor Light eliminators; I’m guessing they are easy to make with a resistor or something.
I live in an emissions free county so my rear O2s always have check engine lights. Currently I don’t even run rear O2s.

Yeah , the bassani hung about as low but without cats it wasn’t as bad as yours.
 

Immortan

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Hey guys, got a question. Im wondering what the hell could this be for?

It has a hot from the headlight switch to a toggle, toggle runs all the way back to the taillight?

**EDIT** well if I had to make an educated guess. It was plumbed into the headlight switch so it must have been a fog light of some sort for when it was in Spain.
 

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Immortan

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IMG_9122.jpeg
Since I was in there, I went ahead and stripped out the Viper car alarm. I’m not sure what the communities general consensus is on them but I hate them.

Thankfully I only have to fix every single wire as they cut and spliced all of them instead of using vampire taps.

Picked up a soldering gun, some solder, wire, and heat shrink to fix it all.
 

Immortan

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Well, I finally got around to cleaning the seats today. Been taking it slow to make sure and release the dirt and grime.

I wish I would have gotten a picture before I started cleaning the passenger upper, but here is the first picture and where the passenger seat is now.
IMG_9123.jpeg


I have made good progress with the passenger seat so I think I’ll leave it for now and start focusing on the driver seat. Just been spraying the diluted woolite on a microfiber and making small circles then using an alacantara brush in short strokes followed by long strokes.
IMG_9125.jpeg


I also started trying to release the years of grime from the drivers seat, it’s just going to take much longer. I am really happy with the results so far.
IMG_9126.jpeg
 

Immortan

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This is where I got today, it’s still a little darker on the driver side, but I think it’s just extra Woolite solution in it that I need to pat out with just water.

Tired and defeated for now. I think they look way better and are much softer so back in they go.
IMG_9131.jpeg
 

HVACdude

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This is where I got today, it’s still a little darker on the driver side, but I think it’s just extra Woolite solution in it that I need to pat out with just water.

Tired and defeated for now. I think they look way better and are much softer so back in they go.
View attachment 1859333
great job man! I can see already this car is going to turn out great in a very short amount of time. Woolite is the time honored suede cleaning tradition on svtp but if for any reason when your finished you do not get the results you want look into koch-chemie (pol star) & sonax with some warm water and a wet vac to follow it up. for the suede balls that build up I've used super light grit sand paper and a safety razor. That combo with leatherique & Mckee's on the bolsters and head rests has yielded me some amazing results for worn out 03/04 seats.
 

CobraBob

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This is where I got today, it’s still a little darker on the driver side, but I think it’s just extra Woolite solution in it that I need to pat out with just water.

Tired and defeated for now. I think they look way better and are much softer so back in they go.
View attachment 1859333
Looks like it was well worth the effort. Were they still a bit wet when you took the photo?
 

Immortan

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Looks like it was well worth the effort. Were they still a bit wet when you took the photo?
Yeah, they were still a little damp when I snapped the photo; the driver side more than the passenger. It took a lot of work to get the caked in skin and oils out of the driver seat, but I will let them dry and work it a little more in a week or so.

great job man! I can see already this car is going to turn out great in a very short amount of time. Woolite is the time honored suede cleaning tradition on svtp but if for any reason when your finished you do not get the results you want look into koch-chemie (pol star) & sonax with some warm water and a wet vac to follow it up. for the suede balls that build up I've used super light grit sand paper and a safety razor. That combo with leatherique & Mckee's on the bolsters and head rests has yielded me some amazing results for worn out 03/04 seats.
Thank you, I appreciate it.

I will look into koch-chemie and sonax. I was wondering what the wet vac results would look like because I know that the material likes to soak up water.

I will have to replace that seat at some point though. The driver side leather looks like crocodile skin in areas on the upper, along with the tear and wear in the lower bolster.
 

DSG2003Mach1

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View attachment 1859144Since I was in there, I went ahead and stripped out the Viper car alarm. I’m not sure what the communities general consensus is on them but I hate them.

Thankfully I only have to fix every single wire as they cut and spliced all of them instead of using vampire taps.

Picked up a soldering gun, some solder, wire, and heat shrink to fix it all.

my soldering skills are non existent and under the dash makes it worse. I've had extremely good luck with the harbor freight heat shrink butt connectors and their marine heat shrink. Just throwing it out there as a possible alternative
 

2003RedfireVert

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my soldering skills are non existent and under the dash makes it worse. I've had extremely good luck with the harbor freight heat shrink butt connectors and their marine heat shrink. Just throwing it out there as a possible alternative
Butt connectors with the adhesive inside is perfectly fine for 99% of wire fixes.
 

Immortan

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my soldering skills are non existent and under the dash makes it worse. I've had extremely good luck with the harbor freight heat shrink butt connectors and their marine heat shrink. Just throwing it out there as a possible alternative
Butt connectors with the adhesive inside is perfectly fine for 99% of wire fixes.
I had considered using butt connectors with adhesive, however where they cut most of the wires, they didn't leave much room to put new ones in. They did leave me the ability to decrimp the butt connectors, so I would like to try and fix it right.

I'll need to de-crimp the old ones as its 1 in 2 out. I don't want to leave it and try to cut the add-in wire short and taping over it since they are the non-adhesion kind. I will include a picture for reference and see what you think.

Option A: Remove the old butt connectors and solder wires together and cover with heatshrink.

Option B: Remove the old butt connectors and splice in's, use new butt connectors with adhesion.
 

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2003RedfireVert

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I had considered using butt connectors with adhesive, however where they cut most of the wires, they didn't leave much room to put new ones in. They did leave me the ability to decrimp the butt connectors, so I would like to try and fix it right.

I'll need to de-crimp the old ones as its 1 in 2 out. I don't want to leave it and try to cut the add-in wire short and taping over it since they are the non-adhesion kind. I will include a picture for reference and see what you think.

Option A: Remove the old butt connectors and solder wires together and cover with heatshrink.

Option B: Remove the old butt connectors and splice in's, use new butt connectors with adhesion.
Man…dirtbags. Definitely didn’t leave enough room. That would annoy me.
 

CobraVenom01

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I had considered using butt connectors with adhesive, however where they cut most of the wires, they didn't leave much room to put new ones in. They did leave me the ability to decrimp the butt connectors, so I would like to try and fix it right.

I'll need to de-crimp the old ones as its 1 in 2 out. I don't want to leave it and try to cut the add-in wire short and taping over it since they are the non-adhesion kind. I will include a picture for reference and see what you think.

Option A: Remove the old butt connectors and solder wires together and cover with heatshrink.

Option B: Remove the old butt connectors and splice in's, use new butt connectors with adhesion.

I would de pin that plug and run a new longer wire and fix that properly.


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Immortan

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I would de pin that plug and run a new longer wire and fix that properly.


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I was just going to lookup how to de-pin these connectors. I am assuming there is some sort of witchcraft tool to assist.

There is also a few V6's in the junk yard near me. I might go acquire a few connectors from this same box (guessing its the body control or something) with longer lengths of wire to use as my test mule/replacement wire and pin. That way it can stay the same color coming out of the connector and I can practice on the pins I don't need.
 

sam92lx

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I was just going to lookup how to de-pin these connectors. I am assuming there is some sort of witchcraft tool to assist.

There is also a few V6's in the junk yard near me. I might go acquire a few connectors from this same box (guessing its the body control or something) with longer lengths of wire to use as my test mule/replacement wire and pin. That way it can stay the same color coming out of the connector and I can practice on the pins I don't need.
Not witchcraft, with the correct tools its pretty easy.
 

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