How to: Valve cover install

99stanger

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Are you sure you didn't use a lb/ft torque wrench by mistake?
It can't be "cheap OEM bolts", they are metric grade 8 fasteners.
I pulled my iron block 2V with trans attached about 5 feet off the ground using only 4 of those bolts. They sure aren't weak, or cheap.
Sounds to me like you used a lb/ft wrench instead of a lb/in wrench and snapped 'em.
I could be wrong, though. Should have let me know, I have two lb/in. torque wrenches, I would have let you borrow one.
Either way I hope everything works out for you.

Positive, I first used my ft/lb. wrench and set it at 7... 7 x 12 = 84 inch lbs. which is still in the spec range (more on the low side of the spec range). And I snapped one, then I said to myself "well shit, maybe I can't use a foot lb. wrench and convert it to inches... because I was always under the impression you could. So I then borrowed an in/lb. wrench and sure enough snapped off two more! I don't know what the heck went wrong, I did the passenger side by feel and everything went fine... but when I went to get technical (and the right way to do it) I had things break. What I meant by weak bolts is maybe the valve cover was uninstalled before for whatever reason? I don't know, but I have some new ones coming in.

This is how it pretty much went down...
-Drivers side valve cover installed.
-fine for a few days.
-Then I noticed a little bit of smoke coming out the engine bay.
-Took cover off to find my brand new gasket must have got caught on a sharp peice of metal and ripped... well because it was ripped! Luckily I have an extra, so I threw that on... then thats when I started "torqing" down the bolts... or snapping them :rockon: . Hopefully she will be ready to go by tuesday night (if the bolts come in by tuesday that is).

- Good news is, I learned how to *efficiently* remove the master cylinder, hydroboost and valve cover... in literally no time at all.
 

merc lover

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^^ interesting.....
Yeah the lb/ft to lb/in conversion should work in theory, but in practice I've found that it's much more accurate to just use the lb/in wrench. Was it a "click-type", or did it have a dial on it? I have both types, I find that the dial one works a little better.
Also I did have a torque wrench shit the bed on me about a month ago, a Craftsman lb/ft click-type. What sucks is that it was decent, went from 20lb/ft to like 200lb/ft, making it a good all-around tool. Luckily I have a loaner Snap-On one that works like a charm. Sucks that your gasket ripped. Where did you go for new bolts?
 

99stanger

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^^ interesting.....
Yeah the lb/ft to lb/in conversion should work in theory, but in practice I've found that it's much more accurate to just use the lb/in wrench. Was it a "click-type", or did it have a dial on it? I have both types, I find that the dial one works a little better.
Also I did have a torque wrench shit the bed on me about a month ago, a Craftsman lb/ft click-type. What sucks is that it was decent, went from 20lb/ft to like 200lb/ft, making it a good all-around tool. Luckily I have a loaner Snap-On one that works like a charm. Sucks that your gasket ripped. Where did you go for new bolts?

Thats what I thought (in theory anyways) and then the first one snapped and then I said... "well **** that theory". It has a dial on it which I believe goes down to 5ft/lb. It seems like a good wrench other than its pissed at my valve cover bolts. Yeah, it was a pretty good size rip in the gasket... it must be easy to snag on something that will rip it (I was really surprised just how sharp parts of the head can be). I went to the stealership for the new bolts, I was able to not have to order the full 18 bolts and was able to just order 8 (I ended up paying 30$ for bolts + shipping). I tried calling the junkyard to see if they had any 99/01-03/04 cobra and mach1 valve cover bolts and mark VIII bolts or any other that would match and unfortunatly they had nothing... otherwise I would have already had the thing fixed.
 

merc lover

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Good thing you didn't have to buy all 20 bolts. If you had gone to Sam's in Worcester they definitely have some 4Vs there, whether it be MarkVIII or Continental. But those bolts would have probably looked like shit, if it were my Terminator I would have gone with new stuff also. My car, I might have gone with junkyard stuff...lol. I've removed/installed a lot of these valve covers and haven't had this happen. Good heads up for others though.
 

99stanger

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Good thing you didn't have to buy all 20 bolts. If you had gone to Sam's in Worcester they definitely have some 4Vs there, whether it be MarkVIII or Continental. But those bolts would have probably looked like shit, if it were my Terminator I would have gone with new stuff also. My car, I might have gone with junkyard stuff...lol. I've removed/installed a lot of these valve covers and haven't had this happen. Good heads up for others though.

Yeah at first I ordered just the 18 (left out the two studs)... then I heard him say they come in packs of 4 or 5, so then I just cancelled that and ordered two packs of four and decided I will throw all new bolts on for the 8 middle bolts. I wish I would have known that about sams because I would have done that instead. I got the call today saying they were in, so I will go pick them up and maybe just get it done tonight... maybe not though I feel kind of shitty right now.
 

99stanger

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New bolts in valve cover went on a few hours ago... I don't see any leaks but it still smokes a tiny bit, I wonder if its still some of the oil just burning off the exhaust. I let the car run for about a half an hour. I check all over for leaks couldn't find anything.
 

Spoolx

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I really want to powdercoat my valve covers but I dont want to deal with removing them...
Would it be easier to drop the k member and lower the motor?
 

SCMOKN

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I really want to powdercoat my valve covers but I dont want to deal with removing them...
Would it be easier to drop the k member and lower the motor?

Bringing this post back from the dead. This is what I was thinking loosen them up and jack it up, would this not give you enough clearance?
 

Co-brat

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Guys, it is much much much easier to simply take the big nut off of the drivers side motor mount and and jack the motor up high enough with a piece of 2x4 to clear the booster and then pull it off. I had my drivers side off in less than an hour.
 

snakerider

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Guys, it is much much much easier to simply take the big nut off of the drivers side motor mount and and jack the motor up high enough with a piece of 2x4 to clear the booster and then pull it off. I had my drivers side off in less than an hour.

Can you please elbarate on that. I need to take the driver side valve cover off. :beer:
 

Co-brat

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Can you please elbarate on that. I need to take the driver side valve cover off. :beer:

All you need to do is remove the the big 21mm nut off of tbe drivers side motor mount, remove the clutch cable, and move the throttle/ cruise control cables. Then you take off the ten bolts holding the vave cover on, take a jack with a piece of wood and jack up the engine/tranny CAREFULLY until you have just enough room to clear the brake booster. Pretty easy really
 

snakerider

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All you need to do is remove the the big 21mm nut off of tbe drivers side motor mount, remove the clutch cable, and move the throttle/ cruise control cables. Then you take off the ten bolts holding the vave cover on, take a jack with a piece of wood and jack up the engine/tranny CAREFULLY until you have just enough room to clear the brake booster. Pretty easy really

Thank you. I'll try that method in couple of weeks. Have no time for the cobra for next couple of weeks, because of school.
 
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Co-brat

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Thank you. I'll try that method in couple of weeks. Have no time for the cobra for next couple of weeks, because of school.

I got to the motor mount bolt pretty easy with about a 2ft extention and wobbly socket on a 1/2" impact gun. Also forgot to menton that you will have to remove the bolt holding the dipstick tube to the block AFTER you jack up the motor a little.
 

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