Can Some One Post Please!
How To Take Off Drivers Side Valve Cover Off..
- Thread starter SmokenGRA03
- Start date
if you need to take a valve cover off, the engine needs to come out anyway.
what did you hope to service with the engine in the car?
the brake booster needs to come off, but it takes less time to take the engine out.
if you're delving that deep into it, you owe it to everyone to buy a shop manual.
http://www.helminc.com/
what did you hope to service with the engine in the car?
the brake booster needs to come off, but it takes less time to take the engine out.
if you're delving that deep into it, you owe it to everyone to buy a shop manual.
http://www.helminc.com/
I have a leak in the valve cover.. (Engine was out by Ford and they did a SHIT job) also I would like to change/Paint them....
Anyone!!!
It's a pita, however you need to pull the hydra boost/master cylinder off and to do that pretty much have to unhook the brake lines/hyd lines and level sensor float. To do that maybe a crowsfoot tubing wrench custom bent or the wrench/socket style crowsfoot and extension. Of course unhook the rod linkage to the pedal. Then you can unbolt the hydraboost/ master cylinder, nuts are on firewall inside the car, socket and extension. Other than that the rest is pretty easy, ps res has to come off, the cam sensor wire unplug, unbolt the bracket that holds all the solenoids and raise it and tie it out of the way, may have to unplug some solenoid wires. Same way with the coil wires/harness.The clutch linkage has to come off, so the quadrant and so on comes off to be able to get the clutch cable out of the way.
The hydra boost/master cylinder is the real pita, putting it back in hooking up the brake lines, be watching how it threads back into master cylinder, easy to crossthread. Brake line fittings are 13mm, however 1/2 may work it's a tight fit. Hyd fittings I believe are 18mm and or 16mm. Of course you need to bleed all the brake lines. You will probably need a valve cover gasket and maybe the spark plug hole gaskets if leaking into the plug well. You will need a bit of ultra blue gasket sealer/rtv to go on head/timing cover junction where valve cover mates.
Also I have heard of putting some alum screen in under where the pcv sits to counter oil being carried to the intake. It is stuffed up under the sheet metal oil baffle.
The hydra boost/master cylinder is the real pita, putting it back in hooking up the brake lines, be watching how it threads back into master cylinder, easy to crossthread. Brake line fittings are 13mm, however 1/2 may work it's a tight fit. Hyd fittings I believe are 18mm and or 16mm. Of course you need to bleed all the brake lines. You will probably need a valve cover gasket and maybe the spark plug hole gaskets if leaking into the plug well. You will need a bit of ultra blue gasket sealer/rtv to go on head/timing cover junction where valve cover mates.
Also I have heard of putting some alum screen in under where the pcv sits to counter oil being carried to the intake. It is stuffed up under the sheet metal oil baffle.
On the driver's side you have to pull the master cyclider off of the booster and pull it as far as you can towards the inner fender. Then, you might be able to remove the driver's side valve cover. I ended up struggling with mine and had a friend help. You can try jacking the motor too, but might not need to.
For the driver side jack up the motor on the driver side as far as you can go.
Some have been able to remove the driver's side by removing the intake, then unbolting the master cylinder and pushing it towards the fender. Of course the clutch cable also has to come off.
For the driver side jack up the motor on the driver side as far as you can go.
Some have been able to remove the driver's side by removing the intake, then unbolting the master cylinder and pushing it towards the fender. Of course the clutch cable also has to come off.
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